Lazy...And I mean that in a good way....
I'm glad it passed too!
I'm still getting the stalling after about 35-40 seconds. I started up the truck,ran over and disconnected the electrical solenoid of the iacv and sure enough the truck died instantly.
You said the EGR is fine since it passed Smog, meaning it would not have not passed smog if something was wrong with it, but does the EGR have anything to do with the stalling out after a short time?
Thankfully, it kept running yesterday long enough for the smog tech to do his job, but now I'm back to this stalling again.
That code reading machine to check codes, would I understand the codes,and will the codes still show up on this 24 year old truck?
For now, that $30.00 for that machine could go towards a new iacv if that would be the next suspect in this process of elimination. Still not sure,and really can't afford to take it to a mechanic if he's going to charge me $100.00 to test it,then the part and labor to put it in, which I can do myself.
IACV varies in costs, and not sure if I should stay with the FORD Part >
FORD DEALER - $103.04,
THE BOYS OF PEP - $109.00, (Can't believe they're a little bit higher than FORD)
& AUTOZONE - $60.00
So if it isn't the PCV, EGR, or TFI Module, this stalling has everything to do with my 24 year old iacv? (or idle air bypass)
A few questions. Does it stall the same engine hot or cold? When it is idling for the 30-40secs is the idle speed low or just the same as it has always been?
It may be that you have a vacuum leak. If so it could be from a number of things. Do you have a spray can of carb cleaner that you used to clean the IAC? With engine running (even a bit above idle) spray the cleaner around the air intake pipes, the IAC and air box and any vacuum pipes. Listen for a change in engine note and examine where you were spraying when the change happened.
Another source for a vacuum problem can be the PCV valve and any rubber pipes connected to it. Try to find the one on your engine.
Finally if the EGR valve is coked up it may cause a vacuum leak. You could take the EGR valve out and clean any carbon off it and off the chamber it sits in.
Ok. Since the smog passed, it’s doubtful the timing was bad or incorrect. My problem with the rough idling is still with me.
I have been told it could be a PVC, EGR, or a vacuum hose. I did remove the IACV (air bypass) cleaned it with carb cleaner, replaced it and it did run better than before, but little better, so maybe that has to be replaced after 24 years, maybe not.
I would say that when I start the truck in the morning, it has a hard time keeping an idle unless I press down on the gas, then after about ten minutes, it seems to idle a little better.
I've been to Autozone and Pep boys looked at their Haynes repair books on the location of that PVC valve, but no one knows where it is on my truck. is it on the drivers side, all the way back behind the throttle body, close to the engine wall/windshield, below the vacuum tree somewhere?
I have`n a clue where it is on your engine. However PCV stands for positive crankcase ventilation. Many years ago the oil fumes in the engine were just vented to the air. Then they decided this was not good for the environment and mandated that the oil fumes had to be drawn into the engine intake manifold and burnt with the gas. So what they do is run a pipe from the engine to the intake manifold with a valve in the line so that the engine running is not upset.
Now most PCV systems run a pipe from the valve cover and the PCV valve plugs into a grommet in the valve cover.
So look for anything that looks like it is venting the oil fumes to the intake system. Could be right at the back of the valve cover, may be low down on the engine just above the oil pan joint or elsewhere.
I have a link somewhere to a Chiltons manual. I`ll try to find it for you if I can.
Well, still a puttering and stalling. I removed the last plug on the vacuum tree nearest the firewall,then the idle started getting steadier and stronger. I have the Chilton's repair manual,but no mention what these are. (I guess I have to remind you that I am not a mechanic, and not sure what these parts are) By unplugging this air hose (from the red arrow) Is there a sure tell sign where the problem is, either the vacuum tree or the other pictured photo near the intake manifold? Would it be ok to run this without that hose in there until I can get to and from my doctors visits this week?
Usually the only vacuum pipe that will improve engine idle when disconnected is the one to the EGR valve. However I don`t have a clue what those pipes are for. It may be that the vacuum leak from the disconnected pipe has improved the idle.
Go back to the repair section of autozone.com and login with your truck details. Click on emissions and you should get a vacuum pipe diagram. See if you can trace where that pipe you disconnected goes to or comes from.
Also see if the idle changes when you pinch that pipe closed.
Can`t see you will hurt anything by driving it with the pipe disconnected if it runs better that way.
Hey lazy K,
This is what someone told me when I disconnected the exposed nipple to the FPR...
"In response to your question about driving it that way, the short answer is no. With the vacuum line disconnected, that thing is dumping a lot of raw fuel into your engine. This will cause severe damage to your catalytic converters, and will also foul your spark plugs and O2 sensors. You have something that is not working that needs to be addressed promptly".
Also, Lazy, is the EGR to the right of that red arrow framed picture with the short hose going into it, off the "T"?
Do you know if replacing the FPR something I can do myself? It looks like there are only two front screws holding that in. Will there be fuel present for me to worry about, or any kind of specifications to follow??
Some have said to plug that exposed nipple off on the vacuum tree (red arrow) to eliminate excess air into the system, otherwise it could foul plugs, and ruin the o2 sensor. I need my truck to get to the doctors, but can't drive it if it's going to stall on the freeway.
Is there a name for that (red arrow) nipple, or just an air hose from the Fuel Pressure Regulator to the vacuum tree?
If someone said to plug that nipple off,do I also plug off the hose line to the FPR?
As always, Thanks for your help!
Yes the thing below the red arrow with the pipe from the T looks like the EGR valve. To check it plug the pipe back on to the tree and unplug the pipe from the EGR valve and pinch or plug that pipe then see if the engine idle is improved.
The other thing is the FPR. However these usually fail by rupturing the diaphram at which point you would have raw gas coming out of the vacuum pipe.
There are three screws holding the FPR and if you can get access to these you can certainly replace it yourself. If you let the truck sit for a few hours without turning the key on there should be no fuel pressure in the system and you can safely remove the FPR.
However before you do that check the EGR valve as described above to make sure it is not to blame.
If removing the vacuum supply from the EGR valve (with all other vacuum pipes plugged back on) does not help then there is another possibility.
The FPR works by bleeding off excess fuel back to the tank (through the small diameter fuel pipe), if this return pipe is crushed/kinked you would then get full fuel pressure to the injectors. So check that return pipe.
I removed my IACV once again to clean it more thoroughly,but still wants to stall. if I warm it up for about twenty mins. keeping and revving the gas, it warms up then seem to keep a steady idle.
Another thing I did noticed was heavy corrosion of the wires (about 4-6 each) feeding from the bundled chassis wiring harness running alongside the air filter box and into each of the two relays on the passenger side, attached to the fender wall. (Picture below) Haven't called ford to see how much they are.
In looking at both the Fuel Relay Switch (part# F1HZ9345A) and the green Multi function switch ( F8PZ14N135EA) the wires from the pig tail going into both connectors look corroded. I called area Salvage yards and Ford dealerships,and they do have the switches, but do not have these connectors so I could splice them together. I don't know if I should even attempt to replace that multi function relay switch not knowing exactly what it does.
I went to Rockauto.com and all I found was two items for the fuel relay connector...I don't know which would work, even though they look the same. They are:
1P1162 for $10.99 and
1P1102 for $11.58 To be used with 1R1294 Relays. They both look identical, but don't want to mess anything up if they are indeed, different.
Someone had mention that the 1986 ranger had no code reader in the truck. I was at autozone and I asked what this part was hanging on the pass fender wall near the very back near the firewall and blower heater unit, he though that was a Diagnostic port. So I gather that is where you can read codes.
I also went there to ask if anyone knew where the PCV was located on my truck. At first, he thought it was part of my oil cap bypass air back into the crankcase,but as he looked on the stamped vehicle info tag on the front of the truck, under emissions, there was no mention of a PCV device. I think I mentioned before that I did buy the $3.00 PCV part for my truck, got t home and could not find anywhere it could be, unless it's underneath the intake manifold,behind the throttle body not in plain view. I could post that vehicle info if you want.
I also bought a MAP sensor,haven't installed it yet,but thinking that may also improve my idle, and it wouldn't hurt, I don't have money to toss away, but these parts haven't been replaced since I bought the truck brand new...24 years ago. The guy at the store also recommended the Lucas Oil treatment (about $12.00) to help the seals and compression (even though a compression test five years ago showed the number 1 cyl. not up to par)
Given it's 24 year old age, bad compression on #1 cyl.,valve cover leaks,rough idling in the morning (but after it warms up it runs ok) valve job is badly needed,could not be accepted into the Clunker program because they rated my truck the same gas millage now as they did the day I bought the car, so no new truck for me.
On the relay inquiry. I found a 4-wire connector harness for my fuel pump relay and will splice together the wires to the existing wires from my wiring harness. There is another relay (green box) next to this relay. I've been told from Ford it was a multi function/purpose relay for my horn. The guy at autozone told me it could be my EFI sensor relay...does anyone know? I could do a test and disconnect, start the engine or honk my horn and get an answer, but as long as I'm here.
Stupidity question ensues.....Should I just install the MAP sensor anyway, or taken it back until I know that it is the problem? I really don't have the money for diagnostic and repair costs,no meter reader,torque wrenches,or gauges, just trying to wing it the best I can on this. Thanks!
Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test Have a look at this link. Now that you have found the diagnostic port you should be able to access any stored trouble codes. Because your truck does not have a MIL light you would need to use a multi meter or a test light. If you don`t have one a test light will only cost a few $ at Autozone. You could then count the blinks from the test light and get the codes. That would be better than fitting the new MAP sensor if it is not needed. Might also point to something else.
I wouldn`t worry about the relays at present.
I would have thought your truck would have a PCV valve. I would think it should be plugged into the valve cover somewhere.
If you can get a test light you need to get a length of light wire and connect the STIn port shown in the pic to the battery negative terminal and then connect one wire from the test light to the ST OUT port and the other wire to the battery positive terminal. Then when you switch the ign on the test light will blink out the stored trouble codes as described in the link above. They will be two digit codes.
Thanks LazyK- That so called "Diagnostic Port" I thought, well someone else told me that is called a 'SPOUT", and you disconnect this when adjusting the timing so it doesn't interfere with the ECU.
The relay picture is wrong. Fuel is usually green, so the relay on the top right is the Fuel pump relay, but I still don't know what the Black/white box (bottom-left) is hanging on that fender wall metal tab.
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