The only reason you need to pull the coil wire is to stop the engine starting while you try to find the compression stroke on No1.
However if you pull all the spark plugs it would make it easier to turn the engine over by hand using the belt drive.
When you get the No1 piston at Top Dead Center put a chalk mark on the dist. body vertically down from where the rotor tip is pointing. Then replace the dist cap and the chalk mark will be in line with the No.1 plug wire post on the dist. cap.
The way I originally had the plugs to the distributor
towers is what I have now.
TOP LEFT (around 10 or 11 o'clock position) # 4
TOP RIGHT # 2 (around 1 o'clock)
BOTTOM RIGHT #1
BOTTOM LEFT (7 or 8 o'clock position) is # 3.
It’s getting spark, it’s turning over and runs and self idles for about 35 – 45 Seconds before it stalls out. I think maybe I’m over-thinking this.
I think the timing is ok, because I don’t think the engine would continue to run if timing was bad.
My next guess maybe would be the gas. At present, I’m about on empty. As I previously mentioned, I added some Octane booster to a half tank of gas, and never filled it up all the way, maybe the Octane stuff loosened some gunk up and is clogging the fuel line, or worse, messed up the injectors.
I’m going to get a gas can and go get some fresh gas to add.
This truck has two fuel filters, one in-line and the other somewhere in the engine
Compartment. I’ll see if I can check the engine compartments fuel filter if I can get to it.
1986 Ford Ranger 2.3L
4-Cyl. 5 Speed OD /
Mileage – 151,4672
Let's say I replace the In-Line Fuel Filter along the rail.
According the Chilton Ranger/Bronco II 1983-1988 Repair manual Pg.248, under "2.3L Engine frame - Mounted inline Fuel Filter", it has another paragraph under this "Purging Air and priming Fuel Filter" , Do I have to do this, or just the replacement of the filter?
I don't think I ever heard the pump prime (hummm) before when I turn the key on.(Electric Fuel boost pump) I think all I did last time in replacing my in-line filter was to disconnect the GRND on battery, and release the pressure from my gas tank cap, replace the filer and put it back together...I don't recall doing any of this "Purging" stuff or loosening any air vent plug on the conditioner housing until fuel flows out from the air vent w/o bubbles.
BTW...someone mentioned it could be a bad IACV. What is this? Ignition something control valve?
You may not believe that the gas was Chevron I used the last time.
I just need this to self idle for the smog test to fail, so I can get an extension, which by the way, good ol' California is now charging a fee of $50.00 for a two month extension...unbelievable! Don't think it will pass the way it's running now.
Ford Fuel Injection Idle Air Bypass (IAB) Here is a link to a good description of the IAC valve (Idle Air Control). It is mounted on the throttle body. That article tells you how to test it and clean it.
When you are on that site also look at the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor and check all connections to it are good.
Check all around the engine for any vacuum pipes that could have been dislodged by the washing.
Never changed a fuel filter on one of those but I would think the way you did it before should be OK.
I think you should change your username from "lazy" to very productive!
Although I haven't checked the IACV yet, I called a Gold Shield Auto repair shop Before I read your post and the guy told me exactly what you posted...to check the idle Air control valve, or Air mass, Map Sensor. He also told me that the fuel filter should not be suspect, and to check other areas first.That should not be a problem.
In order for me to get the Smog test Only done,(Calif. Emissions) is to have a constant idling engine, and since it runs for about 35-45 seconds, then stalls out, I should increase the idle speed.
... BUT, In looking at the Chilton Repair book (Pg. 74) it states that my "engine has a Idle speed controlled by the TFI-IV/EEC-IV and no adjustment is possible." That said, Can I still raise the idle speed enough to drive to get the smog done?
I realize you have more important things to do, I appreciate your time. I honestly thought I would get more than two posters on this subject.
You`re right, I would have thought you would have had more response but there it is.
You do not have a Mass Air Flow sensor so forget that.
If you remove the air filter you will see the throttle body. The IAC valve is attached to it. You will also see the Throttle Position Sensor. If you go to fordfuelinjection.com (already gave a link to a page on it) and click on TPS you will see what it looks like and how to test and set it. You will also see there that it says that adjusting the "idle screw" may put the TPS out of range.
However if you want you can try adjusting the screw ( should be where the cable from the gas pedal attaches to the throttle body). Just make a note of how far you turn it and in which direction.
However clean the IAC valve (as per the instructions in the link) and try that. Then check the voltage at the TPS and adjust if necessary. After that try adjusting the screw if all else has failed.
Lack of more posts here maybe due to this topic being in the wrong forum to begin with...it may have been best to originally start it in the "Other Ford Engine" > " 4 Cylinders". Don't want to double-Post,they don't likey likey.
Regardless, I have posted a few pics of my engine and possible location of the IACV..according to the Ford Parts Dept.
Ford told me for a 1986 EFI 2.3L / 140CID, that IACV is located on the left side of the air filter, passenger side. See photos below.
I'm going to (carefully) remove the iacv valve and clean it out,and possibly replace the gasket...most ford dealers and auto parts have to order either valve or gasket, but at $103.00 for a new valve, I'm not even sure that's the problem yet,and I can nickle and dime myself til the cows come home. I have been told that this '86 is only worth about $500.00...so I hate to keep putting money in to it. I should have bought a new engine years ago.
I'm going to ask if I can re-post this in that other Forum. Thanks for your endless time in your replies!
OK I don`t recognize the part in your pics that you labeled as IAC valve. May be the MAP sensor. The IAC valve should be on the throttle body (looks like a single barrel carb).
Try this, go to the Repair Section of autozone.com and register (free). That gets you free access to AllData. You will get component location details, component testing, along with pics of the components. You will also get a fault finding section.
Give that a try so that we know what we are talking about.
Duralast / Idle Air Control Valve
1986 Ford Truck Ranger 2WD 2.3L FI 4cyl PART # TV200 which to me looks identical to my picture...do you agree?
Well today I removed the iacvalve, cleaned it the best I could with Carb Cleaner,and will reinstall tomorrow. The gasket looks surprising well for being 24 years old!
I also bought some QD Electronic Cleaner, and wondered if you or anyone else ever used this on parts like this relay picture. Where the wires come into this relay from the harness looks pretty bad. Would this be safe to use on all electronic fusible links?
Yes that is the same part so you were right to clean it.
The usual thing for electrical plug connectors would be an electrical contact cleaner, which you could use on all electrical devices. Don`t know but I would assume the QB is the same.
Go back to autozone.com and look at the EGR valve and then find it on your engine. Pull the rubber vacuum pipe off it and plug the end of the rubber pipe with a small bolt or similar or pinch the end with a clip. Start the engine and see if that helps.
I was asked to move this thread to...well here....so guys ...lets dive in and help him some more...we already have ....maybe we can a bit more...
tim.lamkin@internetbrands dot com
Life is not only time……paradoxically, it is the denial of time!
What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters compared to what lies within us.
When you are down...look up...get up...and don't ever give up....
Thank you Tim for the move!
Thank you all for following this link and helping me out.
This CA. emissions Smog is BIG Business here.
After cleaning the Idle Air Control Valve, Air Control Bypass or (iacv), she started running better and by herself for 20 minutes last night, and then again today I ran it for about fifteen minutes to be sure it would stay alive (self idle) long enough for a smog.
As luck would have it, I was leaving the driveway on my way to go get the smog, then it started stalling again, so now I was then on my way to the mechanic for a diagnostic instead.
I went to get gas, and had it idle by itself again, then thought I'd take a chance and get it to the smog center. Well, IT PASSED! He told me that after 24 years, the iacv maybe should be replaced and not just cleaned, and that may take care of this intermittent stalling, which mostly happens in the morning before it warms up.
I showed the smog tech the pvc valve I bought, and we both looked for where this could possibly go in my truck. He even couldn't find where it goes, he said that part was probably the wrong part, and once I open the can of worms and install the new pcv, I run the risk of leaking oil, so basically if it runs, don't fix it.
In closing, he said that PVC probably is a non-issue compared to other things that could possibly lead to the stalling. O2 sensor I replaced two years ago. I will keep in mind that the EGR might be the next step after replacing the iacv.
Congrats on passing the test. You are lucky that it is only every two years.
Glad the EGR was not the cause of your problem and as it passed the test, the EGR must be good so no need to do anything with it.
I would agree with the tech that, before the next test, it would probably be wise to fit a new IAC valve.
At some time in the future it might be worth getting a $30.00 code reader to speed the diagnosis of any future problems (although hopefully there will be none).
Last edited by Lazy K; 02-19-2010 at 07:54 AM.
Reason: more info.
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