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  #46  
Old 10-26-2010, 09:25 AM
pawpaw pawpaw is online now
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I don't use any of the quick drain devices & still use my drain plug, for all the reasons you've given. I just schedule my drain time after the oil has cooled a little, but is still warm/hot, to give a good drain, but not so much so as to scald. I'm just not in that much of a hurry, or mind a little oil on my hands!!!! lol

Now if folks don't off road, or drive on unpaved roads, or take their vehicle to a quick change oil shop, maybe these types of devices would be a worth while thing to have, as it is faster, less messy & less chance of Bubba at the shop stripping, or cross threading the pan plug. BUT then we have to trust that Bubba is also conscious enough to remember to close the danged valve after draining the pan!!!! lol

I like the low profile & the intrnal popup design of the "quick change" valve, but that internal pop up feature worries me a little, as it's not clear to me what the seat & seal are made of & it seems to me it wouldn't take much in the way of a piece of carbon, ect, to cause a seal problem when it closes.

The Fumoto uses a ball valve, that wipes itself each time it's closed, so it might be less prone to seal probems from pan debris, but it's external profile & valve location make it more suseptable to corrosion, physical damage, or being actuated by debris????

I don't know, I like the basic idea of the quick dran plugs & can see pros & cons to all of the different designs I've looked at, but for now I'm staying with the old tried & true drain plug & my ability to remove & install it properly.

For my vehicles engine condition & type of driving, any one design would probably work fine for me & most other folks that don't off road, or drive on rough country roads.

More thoughts for pondering.
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  #47  
Old 10-26-2010, 10:00 AM
jimandmandy jimandmandy is offline
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For most vehicles, except the BMW, its the spin-on filter that makes the mess, not the drain plug, if you position the pan properly. With modern multigrade oils, I dont do it hot anymore, no need. 5Wxx practically comes out like water even when it sits overnight.
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  #48  
Old 10-26-2010, 12:09 PM
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Not to change the discussion to much, but what about transmission changes? I am interested to hear your opinions on whether to take my truck, (6.0 psd with auto transmission) into the dealership to have the transmission flushed, or do it myself?

I do all of my own oil changes and when I need to change the diff fluid, I do that myself as well.
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  #49  
Old 10-26-2010, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricker1979 View Post
Not to change the discussion to much, but what about transmission changes? I am interested to hear your opinions on whether to take my truck, (6.0 psd with auto transmission) into the dealership to have the transmission flushed, or do it myself?

I do all of my own oil changes and when I need to change the diff fluid, I do that myself as well.
If you can get down there to do the above, you can likely do it yourself.

Here is how I pump out my Rangers 5R55E tranny, bet your PSD tranny would be similar. Maybe you'd need little larger sized containers to catch & hold the fluid & catch the drips.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/65...-pump-out.html

Some folks put a quick change valve in their tranny pan also!!!!
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  #50  
Old 10-26-2010, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricker1979 View Post
Not to change the discussion to much, but what about transmission changes? I am interested to hear your opinions on whether to take my truck, (6.0 psd with auto transmission) into the dealership to have the transmission flushed, or do it myself?

I do all of my own oil changes and when I need to change the diff fluid, I do that myself as well.
All vehicles I've owned had a drain plug installed (by me) in the tranny pan (sounds like a sex deviant?) that allows a clean filter/fluid change in my sloped driveway. They're available at NAPA and probably anywhere auto parts are sold---$10 or less for the kit. Once the pan is removed a thru hole is drilled to accomdate the drain plug. Essentially a large bolt and nut after applying something like JB Weld as a sealant its infinitely to empty a full pan.

There are several tricks to removing the trans fluid without the drain plug but each still require a great deal of careful handling or specialized equipment. I'm about to change this fluid again soon and don't dread it nearly as much this time 'round.

As far as having this done by the professionals most now recommend flushing the auto trans with a machine made for this purpose alone. Its installed temporarily between the trans cooler lines allowing fluid to be monitored as it moves through the trans. It takes upwards of 20 quarts for the 4R70W/EOD4 types because they replace the torque converter contents as well. I've yet to see the real value in this IF regular service intervals are maintained---in my case about every 24K miles change filter and fluid. This approach can be as potentially harmful to an older unmaintained trans so its best considered a long long time before shelling out $150 or so for this chore.

Like the engine oil change this isn't something I'll trust any quicky outfit or a dealership to do correctly. I'm slow and gripe about it but at least I know what was done by whom---and I'm cheap too!
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  #51  
Old 10-29-2010, 05:41 AM
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This might have been addressed, didn't read all responses

My issue with taking it to a lube and rob is that around here they use cheap oil and filters for their "specials". I strictly use 5w30 valvoline durablend and lucas additive with a K&N oil filter (silicone anti drainback valve and hole to wire it, off road the truck frequently). Squeezed almost 300,000 tickless miles out of my 99 4.6 F-150 before it was totaled. I like to stick with what works. This oil change would cost me considerably more at a lube shop. That and I can analyze my oil doing it myself
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  #52  
Old 02-09-2011, 09:53 AM
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I enjoy doing it myself...

I doubt I'm saving any money doing my oil changes myself. But I'm always getting the synthetic oil I want, and the filter I want - and I actually enjoy doing it. Well, maybe not so much the past couple of months (when it's been -20C out).

But in the warmer months especially, it's a relaxing "chore". Crack open a beer...let the oil drain in its own time... definitely not a 15 minute job for me... lol.

Seriously though...I prefer to do my own too, so I know it's done right. I've had a past vehicle, where the "oil change" place didn't tighten up my drain plug right, so I had a leak...and I pesonally know 3 different people who have had their aluminum pans, stripped...by the oil change places, because they rush, and don't care about the job they do.
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  #53  
Old 02-10-2011, 01:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
All vehicles I've owned had a drain plug installed (by me) in the tranny pan (sounds like a sex deviant?) that allows a clean filter/fluid change in my sloped driveway. They're available at NAPA and probably anywhere auto parts are sold---$10 or less for the kit. Once the pan is removed a thru hole is drilled to accomdate the drain plug. Essentially a large bolt and nut after applying something like JB Weld as a sealant its infinitely to empty a full pan.

There are several tricks to removing the trans fluid without the drain plug but each still require a great deal of careful handling or specialized equipment. I'm about to change this fluid again soon and don't dread it nearly as much this time 'round.

As far as having this done by the professionals most now recommend flushing the auto trans with a machine made for this purpose alone. Its installed temporarily between the trans cooler lines allowing fluid to be monitored as it moves through the trans. It takes upwards of 20 quarts for the 4R70W/EOD4 types because they replace the torque converter contents as well. I've yet to see the real value in this IF regular service intervals are maintained---in my case about every 24K miles change filter and fluid. This approach can be as potentially harmful to an older unmaintained trans so its best considered a long long time before shelling out $150 or so for this chore.

Like the engine oil change this isn't something I'll trust any quicky outfit or a dealership to do correctly. I'm slow and gripe about it but at least I know what was done by whom---and I'm cheap too!
This guy shows how to do a complete tranny flush in 10 min. I put a VB in an AOD and this is what the guy who built the VB had me do, pretty slick.
YouTube - 10 Min Atomatic Transmission Fluid Flush + Replacement (Most Cars)
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  #54  
Old 02-15-2011, 12:08 PM
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for the oil I now use valvoline would charge me 64.00 for syn power 5w30! so I do all the fluid changes on my 4x4 except the tranny.And beside of the price I dont trust thoes shops or the people who work there.
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  #55  
Old 02-20-2011, 04:25 PM
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i always do all my own maintenence work, the only think i havent done on my own is a alignment after i did a ball joint replacement. the used oil is no big deal, weather its a waste oil stove, getting rid of tree stumps with fire/oil, it all dissapears eventually.
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  #56  
Old 02-20-2011, 09:28 PM
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the used oil is no big deal, weather its a waste oil stove, getting rid of tree stumps with fire/oil, it all dissapears eventually.
You burn your used motor oil?????
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  #57  
Old 02-21-2011, 06:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ottawaguy View Post
You burn your used motor oil?????
I know of a shop that has their heater set up to burn used oil and he'll take all the used oil you can give him. Not a bad deal for the shop and its employees who probably stay warmer at work than they do at home.
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  #58  
Old 02-21-2011, 06:31 AM
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My dealer has a waste oil burner in the shop.

He gives me a $5 discount on parts if I bring him my used oil (truck and van).
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  #59  
Old 02-21-2011, 06:46 AM
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I've never heard of that.....I would think that it is extremely bad for the environment. Now I certainly won't be around to feel the effects, but my children and their children will.
Perhaps the stoves are a different story, but pouring it onto a tree stump is a different story. What doesn't burn off will leach into the ground. Not to say that I haven't done such thing in my time....I remember when I was a kid, my dad and I would venture down to the garage and fill up on used oil, which we sprayed onto the dirt road to keep the dust down...worked great, but today if they caught you doing this, environment Canada would have you in court and half the roadway would have to be dug up to ensure that the underlying soil was not contaminated.
I'm going to read up on the used oil furnaces though......hmmmm
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  #60  
Old 02-21-2011, 02:54 PM
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Very little used oil is refined into new oil again. The vast majority of is is burned. Since it no longer contains lead, what is the environmental problem compared to a power plant that uses bunker oil to fuel its boilers? As in your car or truck, its tuning it to get complete combustion.
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Old 02-21-2011, 02:54 PM
 
 
 
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