2003 F250 (Excursion) Suspension Links Bad - AGAIN!
Fellas -
Sounds like my front suspension links (about 8" in length, attach to the front swaybar, threaded bolts on each end) are bad again on my 2003 Excursion 4 x 4 with the 7.3. Believe the Excursion was built on the F250 chassis, so figured I'd ask here. Believe this is the part - http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1038756
Anyway, I replaced them at 78,000 miles and now I'm getting that same noise at 105,000 miles - loud banging from the front end whenever I go over bumps. Replacements were purchased at the dealership.
Any tips on what to replace them with this time? Something better than what I got at the dealership? I don't mind spending a few dollars, just want something durable.
Here's one from Moog - not cheap ($60/each), but Moog has a good reputation, so I would be surprised if it wasn't a quality part - More Information for MOOG K80273
Since you have a press this should be a breeze for you
Famous last words! I can safely say it was not a breeze; "epic battle between man and truck" would be a more accurate, description, I think.
No real issues with disassembly until it came time to press the existing bushings out. The outer metal sleeve of the bushing was quite reluctant to release from the inside of the suspension link. Ended up breaking the 20 ton hydraulic jack (busted a seal or something) on my Harbor Freight press. Luckily, I had a crusty old spare bottle jack in my Ex; only 6 tons (also made in China), but it did the trick. Last bushing took more persuading - Dremel cut off wheel, hacksaw, file, butane torch - before it was ejected from its former home.
Figured I was over the hump at that time, but I had a heck of a time getting the swaybar back in place b/c the mounts were not lined up right. Was much easier after I ensured there was adequate grease on the id of both swaybar bushings (just like the directions said) so I could move them around a bit. That swaybar is also a heavy SOB, and I hadn't bothered to jack the truck up, so my room to maneuver it was a bit limited.
Finally got the swaybar on and then realized that my links were not lining up. Loosened stuff up enough to where it looked like I could force it together and realized that I had one of the links on upside down.
At that point, things started to speed up, got it all back together, and took it for a test ride. Yep, the annoying clunk is gone.
Glad that I had Jason's website to use as a reference; that was quite helpful. Had to go back inside to check out the pictures a few times to ensure I was doing it right.
Thanks Jason, I used your article as a reference as well, helped alot.
I didn't have as much trouble, no press breakage, but it wasn't easy!
One of the frame bolts that hold the passenger side sway bar mount broke off, the other one had to be ground off...so it definitely took some extra time to get everything apart.
I used a ball joint press to get the bushings out AND heat...definitely needed a torch, probably would have snapped the press without heat. Once I started using heat it was a pretty easy process.
But thanks to Jason's article I quickly learned about how to get the passenger side out AND that the bolts are a tight fit with the new bushing sleeves so they needed to be pressed in - use the ball joint press again, no problem!
I too completed a Sway Bar Bushing replacement this weekend.
I'd like to say it took me an hour. But, it was not to be. Ended up taking 6 hours including lunch (but I had to wait for paint to dry).
Those link bolts are a real mother to turn. (after 315,000 miles over 10 years you'd think they would want to come off, lol).
I don't have an arbor press so I used a ball joint press with it's smallest sleeve and and a 1-1/16" shallow well socket. I drove the press with an air impact wrench. It still struggled to pop the bushings but after I added a bit of propane heat to them they slid out.
I ended up using a woodworking clamp to press the new bushings in. The parallel jaws of a Jorgenson I-beam clamp worked well. My 6yr old son actually ran the clamp while I held everything aligned.
Other than the usual skinned knuckles and a few choice words. The job went well.
Big thank you to Jason for the write-up. Really helped out with the location of the replacement Energy Suspension bushings. (There were no instruction in the kit box I bought off Amazon for $35.00)
Rides much quieter over the bumps now.
Nice outdoor project for the first nice Sunday of the year.
lol, me too. I got inspired by Jason's article which has very clear instructions. My first trip to the Harbor Freight, took the ball join press home, because I planned to do the ball joints too. I struggled with the bushings for 1 weekend, could not do the job even with my impact wrench, then I tried to light the heat gun, but it was clogged and getting dark, had to put them back on the truck and waited until the following weekend. Luckily, received Harbor Freight coupon for the 12ton hydraulic press during the week, I made my second trip to Harbor Freight and took it home. Like what Jason said, it was a breeze with the hydraulic press, but it made a loud bang when it came out, scared the tar out of me, luckily, no one was around to see my funny face...
Anyway, many thanks to Jason.
dude energy suspension, i just did my dads not even eight months ago and the passenger side started banging again, he refused that they were bnad for the price he paid but after 30 bucks ten minutes with my press its quiet as a mouse and rides nicer i think. factory sucks i change everything after reading problems on here, soon my whole truck wont be stock
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04 F-350 SC, SB, 4x4, 5.4, 4R100, FTVB, 4.30 gears, K&N intake with pre wrap, custom tuned SCT, Gibson SS headers, e-bay y-pipe, high flow converter, pro chamber muffler, custom long add a leaf, dually camper leaf, 08 aluminum diff cover
1978 F-150 4x4 351M stock for now (money pit), edelbrock intake and carb, 2 inch level springs
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Luckily, I had a crusty old spare bottle jack in my Ex; only 6 tons (also made in China), but it did the trick. Last bushing took more persuading - Dremel cut off wheel, hacksaw, file, butane torch - before it was ejected from its former home. 
