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Step by Step Cab Removal

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Old 02-05-2010, 04:34 PM
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Step by Step Cab Removal

I'm looking to give my '96 250 4x4 a really good once over regarding the frame...I know the cab mounts with only 4 (?) bolts, but is that it? The 2 towards the rear are easy to remove, not rusty at all, but the fronts are another story. Can anyone offer any tips or advice on this procedure? The truck has never been apart-ever. I'd also like to leave the engine in place-is that feasible? Like I said, if you have ANY input at all, let me have it! Don't be afraid to dumb it down-really really dumb it down!
Thanks in advance~
Roger
 
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:40 PM
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is there a problem with the frame? .. it's a f'in lotta work! .. if your thinking of painting the frame you need to remove more than just the cab .. and you'll end up wanting/having to replace other things as well .. I'm doing it cause the cab on my '87 F-250 was shot ..

maybe just put on some old clothes or a cheapy rain suit and some goggles or diving mask and crawl under there at one of those DIY wash bays ..
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 07:34 AM
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Originally Posted by pete17c
is there a problem with the frame? .. it's a f'in lotta work! .. if your thinking of painting the frame you need to remove more than just the cab ..
Well, judging by how nasty the rear frame was under the bed which I removed, I'd say the front is just as bad. No rust thru that I can see, but you know how that goes. Someone told me that the front cab mounts up towards the radiator are problematic-is that true? BTW, remember I'm in the Northeast rust belt!
Roger
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:17 AM
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You need to remove the front clip first, its pretty easy. Most of the time the radiator support is shot or bolts are completely rusted off. I Removed the doors from the cab and used a cherry picker and entered in thru the side of the cab. I used four ratches straps from the 4 corners of the cab and lifted it off. You may have to drill the heads off the cab mount bolts using a 90 degree drill for the front ones. Cherry picker works wonders!
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 09:54 AM
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u have to unbolt the calum and steer shaft just cut the 4 cad bolt and get new grade 12 bolts best 50 buck u can spend you will have to take the front clip off i recamand taking it off in one pcs u do ur moter harnass and rad support bolts and the back fender bolt i use a backhoe to lift mine off there crazy heavy
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Roger T. Pipe
I'm in the Northeast rust belt!
I'm with ya buddy .. this is the frame of the donor truck .. pass side just behind front wheel ..



yes the radiator support on my F-250 basically fell off once I took the fenders off ..

you may be able to just un-bolt the cab and lift it a few inches, but beyond that you'll need to (and I'm sure I'm not including everything) ..

disconnect steering linkage, shift linkage, brake and clutch hydraulic lines, e-brake cable, assorted electrical connectors, heater core hoses (everything that's attached to the firewall and then somehow tied to the motor/frame) ..

you'll also need, if you don't have one, a Chiltons/Haynes or other repair manual, some way to lift the cab once your ready and a lot of time ..

one of the most valuable resources you've already found .. FTE forums ..

good luck and keep us posted ..


the build truck after dis-assembly ..


and after painting with "ZeroRust" ..
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by pete17c
I'm with ya buddy .. this is the frame of the donor truck .. pass side just behind front wheel ..



yes the radiator support on my F-250 basically fell off once I took the fenders off ..

you may be able to just un-bolt the cab and lift it a few inches, but beyond that you'll need to (and I'm sure I'm not including everything) ..

disconnect steering linkage, shift linkage, brake and clutch hydraulic lines, e-brake cable, assorted electrical connectors, heater core hoses (everything that's attached to the firewall and then somehow tied to the motor/frame) ..

you'll also need, if you don't have one, a Chiltons/Haynes or other repair manual, some way to lift the cab once your ready and a lot of time ..

one of the most valuable resources you've already found .. FTE forums ..

good luck and keep us posted ..


the build truck after dis-assembly ..


and after painting with "ZeroRust" ..
This is exactly what I'm planning to do! I hope I can get this done by late Spring/Early Summer. The cherry picker is a great idea...a friend has one-I'm sure I can wrangle it from him! Wish me luck~
Roger
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 12:55 PM
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aside from the radiator support mounts, that will either need to be swapped with the ones from the donor truck (they are in better shape) or having to weld in some new metal to the center section, my frame wasn't too bad .. yours is about 10 years newer than mine, so hopefully you don't run into anything major ..

my build truck was down anyway, and once I got started I lost some time at work (had time, no money), then winter set in .. so just be aware it may take longer than anticipated as a DIY project ..

hopefully I can help you out along the way, as those here on FTE have helped me ..

I'll add a digital camera to the recommended list of stuff you'll need .. I took lots of pics and have often needed them to 'remember' how things went ..

not sure as you don't give specifics .. once you do all this work, consider doing things like the clutch, etc .. much easier when you basically already got easy access ..

rad support mount on the build truck ..


and the donor ..
 
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Old 07-01-2015, 12:38 AM
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Hey, I am in the process of changing my Rad support and the rubber bushings are shot like most 93's. But anyway i ordered EnergySuspention poly bushings. I am aware that they do not come with the hardware but i want to know how to put it back together visually. Well at least a pic of it. I'm sure lots of people have done this but I'm not entirely sure. Ive seen diagrams of OEM ones.
 
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