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Clutch safety switch 'mod'

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  #31  
Old 03-05-2014, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by evan sussman
I just did this last night. Jumper 1 to 2. Cruise control still works. I just cut the first two and wire nutted them together.
I would solder and heat shrink and forget about it. If you cant solder, now is a good time to learn!

This is one of the best things I've ever done to this truck btw.
 
  #32  
Old 03-06-2014, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by evan sussman
I just did this last night. Jumper 1 to 2. Cruise control still works. I just cut the first two and wire nutted them together.
You removed the switch altogether, right?
 
  #33  
Old 03-06-2014, 09:42 AM
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starting the truck, with it in gear, i dont see that happening. We've been driving these beast for who knows how long, so i'd think its second nature to grab the shifter and give it a N test, prior to firing ur off.

I dig the idea, but the "usage of T.B." being saved by not pushing clutch in, would be compared, to me anyways, of floating of 2nd and 4th gears. So "wear" doesnt come to play. However, doing this "mod" i could see the benefit if, using these same said wires, hooked to a toggle for theft purposes???
 
  #34  
Old 04-05-2014, 10:50 PM
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doing this mod, first thing in the morning. The new m/s assy i installed..( Brute Force from Advance Auto), the rod is jammin up on the saftey switch.
 
  #35  
Old 04-05-2014, 10:51 PM
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besides, have had truck going on 4yrs, and think ive used C.C. twice
 
  #36  
Old 04-06-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by devonhubb
You removed the switch altogether, right?
No, the switch is necessary for the cruise control system to function normally. Also, if you just leave the switch hanging without bypassing the switch the truck will not start. The clutch switch is a two pole switch. That means it switches two separate loads. In this case one load is normally open, that means electricity does not flow through, and one is normally closed, that means in it's resting position electricity flows through it to complete the circuit.

The cruise circuit is normally closed when the pedal is not pressed. When it is opened the cruise control shuts off.

Conversely, the started circuit is normally open, electricity cannot flow to the starter relay when the pedal is not pressed. When it is pressed the circuit closes and electricity can flow to the starter relay if the key is turned. By bypassing the switch and connecting the two wires that are normally not connected you are making so electricity can always flow from the ignition switch (key) to the starter relay, regardless of the position of the clutch pedal, and therefor the clutch switch.
 
  #37  
Old 08-27-2014, 02:45 PM
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Seems to me you could use a SPCO (single pole center off) switch. Put 12V on common and wire the start circuit to one pole and the cruise control to the other. When the switch is centered, neither starter or cruise is energized. I may get around to doing this soon and will report back.
 
  #38  
Old 08-30-2014, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 4inchlovin
Our trucks MAY have a neutral saftey switch also... If not it wouldn't be hard/impossible to do.
I know this is a really old thread, but does anyone know for sure if the ZF6 has a neutral safety switch? I'm hoping it does so I can use it to cancel my exhaust brake
I'm wiring up my exhaust brake mod, and am using the clutch switch and throttle switch to cancel it, and it would be great to have a neutral switch cancel it as well.

Also, anyone know if the wires to pins 3&4 on the clutch switch go to anything if the truck doesn't have cruise?
 
  #39  
Old 12-28-2016, 11:43 PM
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Remote start

Originally Posted by 4inchlovin
I want to do this so i can do remote start...

You can do remote start without touching this clutch switch at all. Instead of hooking up the starter trigger wire from the remote start module before the clutch switch (into column harness), you can find your wire coming from your starter relay in the fuse panel under the dash and tap it in there. Mine was a yellow wire. I just installed a remote start on my truck today.
 
  #40  
Old 07-05-2017, 03:46 PM
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2000 PSD, I had an intermittent no-crank condition (truck would start every time once I could get the starter to engage). I had replaced the starter only 3 months prior, so I knew that part was OK (I did it up RIGHT). I pulled the clutch starter safety switch - or attempted, as it fell apart in my hand. $60 for a switch that performed a function I hated anyway was out of the question, so using the schematic from this post by JockD, I was able to solder together a bypass, and still retain my cruise control. Great fix!
 
  #41  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:14 PM
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I've had the pushrod for the clutch master cyl break and there was no way to start the truck. I wanted to use the starter to move out of traffic in first gear but got nothing. Got towed home and replaced the pushrod,all fixed. It happened again an this time I removed the safety switch and mounted it under the dash with a 1/4" rod sticking out so as to operate it by hand.The truck will start in gear so I do like anybody with any brains will do,put in neutral. If I'm going to use cruise I just pull the rod out an cruise works.I hate that the manufactures always think everybody needs safety this and safety that.
 
  #42  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:35 PM
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Biker.. If your referring to that tab, off the clutch pedal, hell, I got tired of welding that damn thing on. Went away with it and installed a collar/shoulder bolt. Been great for 2yrs👍
 
  #43  
Old 01-06-2018, 08:44 PM
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Talking about the complete safety switch on a 93 f150. It's the plastic switch on the pushrod for the clutch under the dash.
 
  #44  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:59 PM
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Just did my 2003 F250 6-spd today. I mainly wanted to install a starter kill switch.
Just removed the two wires needed for the starter and routed to a toggle to prevent crank.
Plugged the remaining four wires back into the clutch switch to continue using the cruise control.
Wondering now why I didn't do this 15-years ago..
Thanks for the nice write-up

Domenic
 
  #45  
Old 05-22-2018, 11:15 AM
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Just installed the "F350" lite fender emblem. Showing post lights, off road bumper light and day time running lights


 


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