Who sells just the Y pipe for joining the two EFI exhaust manifolds? I went to finaly order the dang thing and all they had was the pipe and cat assembly. I is an 85 and in ND anything older then yesterday at the dealer is smog exempt. Does anyone just sell the pipe?
Yeah, I was blown away when I did my exhaust how much they charge for those cat/downpipe combos. $60 downpipe, $50 cat. $10 piece of straight pipe. They put it together for you and suddenly it's $250 - $300.
When you get that pipe, look in the rear opening. When they attach it, sometimes they don't open up the hole into the main pipe all the way and you may need to do a little grinding for a little better flow.
Now that I got that ordered I need some warm weather.
I shaved a stock 1bbl manifold last summer and made an adaptor to fit a holley 2300 on it so at some point in may I will have a 265 CFM holley and a set of EFI manifolds going on. I want to run the exhaust through a oliver super 77 muffler. (Tractor muffler for the uninitiated.) Those things bellear somthing sweet under load and shuffle at idle. They are a six cylinder engine too and they have a 2 1/2 OD muffler.
The only thing is I gotta talk a local shop into doing this. Some of them will look at this idea and go HUH?
Sounds like it'll be a nice setup! I'll be interested to hear how that muffler sounds on there.
It's hard work finding a muffler that sounds great on an I6. I had to call around to several shops to get recommendations on a muffler for mine. 99% of them just said to get a Flowmaster (which I've heard don't sound the greatest on I6s). Asked them what they had and they, of course, would say a V8.
Finally talked to a guy who recommended a Dynomax turbo muffler. He loved how it sounded on his old I6 Landcruiser. I knew I had the right recommendation.
Even with the stock 1bbl, those EFI manifolds and 2.5" exhaust really woke that engine right up.
man that is good advice, mine was really bad, i mean nasty, choked weld slag stuff, i hope the rest of the fellas who do not already have one and are thinking about it catch your post. i really do, i believe mine was so bad it would have made a diff. carry on. paul md ps, i guess there robot weld needs a program tweak, i dunno. i was surprised coming from the big Walker
my walker has the bung also, but in my case it was way further down the pipe than my stocko. i had to lengthen the wire harness to reach it. if this helps, i know those sensor issues can get sticky. i called a few of my buddies who are much smarter and way better on the efi stuff. i was concerned if my splice would effect the sensor. you know, resistance special wire etc etc, there comeback, use the same gauge, use quality, dead sure about your connections, suggested it be soldered, quit worrying, drive your truck, you will be fine, so far i have been. i say you are dead right about using your o2. without it, on a system that has not been tweaked, i do believe will give you a headache if you do not.. good luck paul md
Yes, mine has the O2 sensor bung as well. I think they all do. I wouldn't worry too much about lengthening the wire. I have a voltmeter in my cab that's hooked up to an O2 sensor so I can monitor fuel mixtures. The signal's great and responds rapidly. It's only between 0 and 1 volt, so I can't imagine it's difficult to screw the signal up.
near as i can tell, you just backed up my mouth. splices will work. would you do me a p favor, please go further on your monitoring system. i am for real, no joke interested. a man like you knows full well that all of us are pursueing that perfect stoimetric wrong spell, what somewhere around 14-1 or whatever, my root point, there are diff ways to do it. it is critical, and i am curious and FULLY interested in your design. please respond. i truly do want to know. for the record, most folks understand this is not exclusive to the 300. it applies to MOST normally aspirated GAS motors period. it tis that ratio that every one chases. ie, COMPLETE combustion, which is a real hard thing to do in anybodys book.and so on and so on anymore sounds to ME myself that i am some kind of master builder and this and that, NONE of which is true. i am just paul and i just do what i do. many times, with men, and yes even LADIES, who are just plain smarter than me period. HEY this is not true confession time, dont need that, this is more like trying to get closer to folks who think like me, like to go fast within a reasonable budget and like to haggle over, discuss if you will or better yet present there case without gettin ugly. there are forums around where a man can do that, but i do not believe fte is one of them, it aint got nothin to do with being a sissy. its more about being just a wee bit above the regular kick b-- stuff that in the end always gets folks riled and NOBODY learns anything. sincerly paul md
i said my piece on the issue at hand, BUT, i am dying to know what kind of new part/toy is IN that box boss. i know full well it tis none of our biz, i also understand all of us HAVE to be stone careful in this thing folks call cyberspace. BUT the pic is there, you are strait up, hows about just a HINT. what else are you up to besides our mighty 300. all i am asking is just enough to have fun, BUT not get you hurt from the internet bad guys. if not, i do get it, i have been burned before, paul md.
Well, to be honest, I couldn't access a picture of my Y-Pipe so I grabbed one someone else posted up a while ago. I can't remember who it was, but I agree that the box looks like it definitely holds something fun. Wish I had more for you!
As for the O2 sensor, it's actually a rather simple setup. Find an inexpensive single wire sensor, usually around $20. Run a wire from it up into the cab and connect it to the positive on a handheld voltmeter. Then, ground the negative of the voltmeter to the frame (I did this with another wire.) Set the voltmeter to read between 0 and 1 volts, and watch the signal. 0.4 - 0.6 is right in the ballpark of perfect fuel mixture.
Keep in mind though, that the O2 sensor is basically an on/off switch, so if it's rich (even if it's just slightly), it'll jump up to around 0.8 - 1 volts, and lean down to 0 - 0.2 volts. It basically will tell you LEAN - STOICH - RICH, but not how rich, or how lean. But, it's better than guessing or looking at plugs!
If you want to know the exact degree of mixture, you'll need a wideband setup, but then you're quickly jumping right into the ballpark of $200 - $400.
I really want to know what your engine sounds like after the Oliver muffler. I tried looking it up, and I found 3 or 4 mufflers one was only 9 inches long lol I bet that would be loud. Do you know what size 6 cyl they used in those Oliver tractors? I can't find any info. There isn't even a wikipedia page for Oliver.