I had very similar problems with both my Expedition and Navigator air suspensions. After soaping down the air bags and compressor assemblies, both leaks turned out to be in the same spot at the the o-ring and hose connection under the hood next to the battery where the air hose to the shocks plugs into the air compressor assembly.

All I had to do to fix the leak was to disconnected the hose at the plug in fitting, sanded the worn area of the hose with some 1500 grit emery paper (it was pretty easy to see where the rough area was right at the section where the o-ring rests on the hose) then I just applied a dab of grease to lube it before plugging it back in and the leaks were gone and haven't come back since.

 

I just had a chance to look at mine. The compressor isn't coming on at all. The 50amp fuse is not blown. Where do I go from here? Any easy way to tell if the compressor is bad?

 

Prolly start with Year/Make/Model.

Could check for power at the compressor. If no power, try by passing the relay.

 

It's a 2004 Lincoln navigator. Where is the relay?

 

This may be a silly question, but since the compressor doesn't energize until all the doors are closed and the vehicle is in gear; are you sure that all those conditions are met before you try and verify that there is actually no power going to the compressor? It won't work at all if one of the door switches is bad (reading door open) or the gear selector is in park.

 

I haven't verified there is no power at the compressor. I will do that tonight. But yes, I did have the vehicle in drive with the doors shut when i verified the compressor wasn't running.

 

I'm not sure if the 2004 is the same place as my 2002 Navigator. Mine is behind the right front headlight accessed from underneath the vehicle. The relay is a solid state relay ($$) attached to the header support.

 

well, my 2004 Expedition had the same symptoms but after 1600$ and several busted knuckles I'm no better.
Started off by not inflating all the way with cold weather and the dreaded "check air suspension" light, first began only when terribly cold.
i figured the compressor was a little weak after 130K, replaced that, no change. Changed the O-rings in the solenoids, no change. Pumped it up to 4x4 high height and turned off the system, thinking I was trapping air in the bags and if they leaked down it "must" be the bags. It leaked down in about 10 miles,...So I Ponied up for the $1400 new air bags and shocks, no change.
Works occasionally, than while driving I hear the pump start to run, and run and run, and ends in the check air suspension light coming on and the car being quite low (but not all the way down), occasionally it goes all the way down to the bump stops. I've been all over under the car checking lines for leaks,...can't find any.
I understand that the dealership can scan the system for fault codes, does anyone know if the scanners at Auto_Zone (advertises free scanning) and the like have a high enough quality scanner to retrieve these codes or must I deal with the dealership (pay big bucks just to get scanned).
I'm so frustrated If it were a person I'd choke it.

 

The auto zone scanners aren't fancy enough to get the suspension codes. You'll have to take it to the dealer. I ended up using the Ford service department in my town to sort my issues out and it wasn't as bad as I thought it would be $$ wise. Just take it in and explain to them in detail what you have already done. With that plus their code scanning they should be able to sort it out pretty quickly.

 

Thats funny made me laugh...
Yep same issue for a year now in Arizona only half the year it was an issue (kinda hot here). For whatever reason at exactly 70 degrees and higher the problem goes away, Weird. I thought I would give the dealer a try Less than three weeks ago. The dealer wanted $900+ dollars to replace (2) caps and seals (o-rings) on the front 2!!!!! I said you ought to be ashamed of yourself, I bought the car there too!
Yes they can scan for codes but I don't think it gets that close, of course I could be wrong. I have heard the replace caps and seals before and this is what the Service adviser (read- ripoff man) told me this time. It did cost me 90 dollars for that diagnostic on that though.
Anyway the parts were about a hundred dollars including shipping. 2 KYB metal strut cap comes with o rings.
I have replaced the passenger side bag ( Arnott) last year but it made no difference.
I got some time off coming and i will check it out then and replace those caps and seals then. It makes sense to try and look for any leaks with soapy water too could be I missed it before. I will report back when its done.

 

Hi Folks,

I no this post is several months old but I never saw many solved issues.

Nathank, I have a 2003 basically same as yours.. did you find the issue with your Air Suspension system? Did your message center ever give you a "Check Air Suspension" or "Air System Off" message.

I had some issues with the Air Suspension but for now everything is well.

If any of you need more info let me know, glad to help.

Has everyone been satisfied with results from installing the Arnott Air Bags?

American, Arnott, and Suncore Industries carry most Ford Air Suspension parts, but not some of the air line fittings. Please note all the one year and lifetime warranty claims are based on mfg defects.. not wear & tear or length of in service.. so buy the best $$$ value. As usual, If we damage the parts or air compressor/pump breaks then it's not covered.

Good Luck All,

Charlie

 

Hey,
So i was going to replace the caps on the tower, dealer wanted 900 bones for this said this was the issue, caps and o-rings. Found total online for these at 100 bucks. That did not go well though.
Short story is during that nightmare called O Reilly Auto asked if they had the Arnott air suspension complete units, and the manager said he had one in stock could get the other by noon. 365.00 each. Told him I could not get there, truck is on blocks. He came picked me up ( he went and picked up the other one after our call) then I bought the two at his store AND he drove me back to my house. I don't have friends that would do this, damn. Arizona Tatum and Bell if anyone cares
They went on OK.
Note~Best to know here in advance that they are VERY difficult to get on without something to keep shock collapsed completely, it wont install onto mounts with out that. I used a nylon flat cord fabric with ratcheting. I suppose anything would keep it collapsed but to get it mounted once there you have to remove that item. Remove the solenoids helps with air discharge also. Difficult to get back in though
End of story works great, rides like brand new. I will probably have to replace the air pump in the not so distant future, makes a lot of noise, I waited too long to replace.
Good luck

 

Hi bldaz,

Your post provides good feedback for folks that ar considering just replacing the Caps and O'Rings-----that takes as much if not more work and the cost would still be at least $150.00 for each wheel.

The Arnott fully assembled replacement run about $350.00 each for the fronts.... and require less overall work and / or possible rework..

From my experiece the Fronts give 3 times more issue after 6 to 10 years than the Rears. I think the fronts are exposed to hight temperatures because of the Engine & Exhaust manifold etc---- there for the issue with the Caps and the O'rings... Viton O'rings can hold up to heat --about 300 degrees F over a pretty extended time frame, I have never been able to find out what the O'rings at the Cap are made out of.


Great Job,

Charlie

 

The orings that you discuss replacing, are those the ones on the solenoid?