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  #1  
Old 01-31-2010, 08:48 PM
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Reidicus Reidicus is offline
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Electrical Problem (fuses and relays good)

Hi, I own a 2004 F350 6.0L Diesel. Just today when I was at work (in the oil patch), I lost power to my Windows, Instrument Cluster (just gauges/ lights fine),radio, moon-roof, and interior dome lights. Everything else is working great. Truck starts fine and runs fine. I checked all the fuses and they look good. Then the relays. Replaced and still no luck. Seems to me that there is no power going to the one relay (I think it is #603 or 604). When I pull the other relays, you can hear them click when reinserting whereas nothing happens with the one. No click.

I had to drive home with a tarp covering the window and earplugs it was so loud. It was snowing and cold.....

Anyone that may think they have some idea (bad ground or other mystery fuse/relay) it would be much appreciated before taking it into ford.

Thanks in advance.

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Old 01-31-2010, 10:43 PM
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I'd go back and check the fuses again, specifically fuses 27, 35, 41, 45, 102, also check Circuit breaker 601 and relay 306.
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Old 02-19-2010, 01:31 AM
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I have a 2002 F250 with the same problem. The power windows stop working and the radio stops at the same time. Then they will suddenly work again. It seems to be getting worse or happening more often lately. I was thinking I should replace the breaker at the 601 location, but isn't that what the breaker is for? To protect that circuit? I'm baffled and am getting frustrated with it. Everything else is fine. HELP US SOMEBODY.
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Old 02-19-2010, 05:04 PM
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For me it was fuse 35 (Insturment cluster) This fuse is blowing more frequently. Still not sure why.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:19 PM
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Odds are there is a pinched or chafed wire that is shorting to ground at times, when it moves "just so" to make contact. No easy way to find that other than a close inspection of the entire circuit wiring from one end to the other. Yes it is a PITA

Edit: I had a similar problem in a Taurus years ago. Finally traced it to the vanity light in the sun visor mirror. There was a wire that came out through the roof and went along next to the small pivot arm. It was poorly made and the wire was next to a metal edge of the attachment bracket. Insulation wore through and it shorted to the bracket aka ground. Fixed that, no further random blown fuse.
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Old 02-19-2010, 10:39 PM
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If fuses and relays are all in good working order then I would look for a loose electrical connector. Maybe in the firewall bulkhead or other location under dash or even in engine bay. Might not be latched tight, or maybe the pins were not pushed in all the way and are working out from the back of the connector. It does happen occasionally.

I guess the good news is that everything that is down is probably part of chassis electrical wiring and not the cab electronics. Easier problem to solve in my opinion.
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:06 PM
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That chaft wire bundle or loose connector under the dash sounds like the likely suspects. Makes perfect since to me. I'm going to inspect them closely tonight and will let you know what's up. thank for the help guys.
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:09 PM
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redford,
How does one check a relay? Continuity? Or just replace and see if that's the culprit.
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Old 02-20-2010, 03:42 PM
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Do you have a tilt column or power pedals? Its a known place to look for wire chafing, short issues. Also, if you have isolated a known relay, try swapping with another to see if the problem goes away. It may be that it is weak, heats up and then no good. Also, with fuses, try swapping in new ones of the appropriate size, its not uncommon to have a bad fuse where you can't see its gone.
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:44 PM
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thanks mhoefer, will check it out and report back to you. I've checked the wiring and disconnects as best as I could. I will also check the "delay relay" as someone else suggested. thanks all. great site eh? I like this way better than letting the dealer do it to me.

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Old 02-24-2010, 11:49 PM
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Easiest way to check a relay is to substitute it for a known good one, then test the system on question.
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:01 AM
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thanks redford will do and get back to you.
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Old 02-25-2010, 12:24 AM
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Think I finally found the right place to ask this!

2003 F-250. First sign of electrical trouble a few months ago when the cruise control went out, then back on, now out for good. Now the radio and odometer and gas gauge will all be off (and the check engine light on) at start-up and then come on a few seconds to minutes later. No problems with headlights or interior lights or horn. SOMETIMES when I push on the buttons on the right side of the wheel for the cruise control the "on" indicator light on the dash panel with blink on/off, but it won't actually activate c/c function.

Do these problems sound related to a single part or wiring failure to any of you? Perhaps chafing in steering column wires? Already checked all the fuses in the interior box (not under the hood yet) and replaced two bad ones, which turned out not to have anything to do with these problems (frustrating!). Haven't checked any relays yet. Problems began very soon after I beat the living hell out of the truck on a 4WD track I never should have attempted.

Last edited by skadel; 02-25-2010 at 12:37 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 02-25-2010, 08:45 PM
Coobreeze Coobreeze is offline
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This is definately the place skadel. Everyone is helpful and they won't make fun of a "stupid question" as there aren't any. Even though I'm not a mechanic, with all this help I feel like jumpin right in to this electrical problem with confidence knowing I can holler for help.

The rain has let up, so guess I'll mess with it and see what I can find out. Going to switch some relay around, check for chaffing in the steering column, wire bundle, then check around the petal up/down wiring.
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Old 02-25-2010, 09:16 PM
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Anything with the steering wheel switches points heavily to the clock spring assy in the steering wheel. Not guaranteed, but likely.

The clockspring is essentially a wire that is wound around like a spring to transfer electrical signals to/from the switches on the wheel face. It is wound like a spring so it can coil and uncoil without breaking as the wheel turns back and forth, but over time it still can fatigue and break thus creating intermittent contact problems.

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Old 02-25-2010, 09:16 PM
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