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Old 01-31-2010, 08:30 AM
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Help - Oil still in Coolant after Oil Cooler Change

Hey guys,

Looks like I still have oil in my coolant even after my oil cooler changeout. Where else can this be coming from. I am pretty confident in my job on the oil cooler. Water pump Housing???? Any other ideass????
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Old 01-31-2010, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tttario View Post
Hey guys,

Looks like I still have oil in my coolant even after my oil cooler changeout. Where else can this be coming from. I am pretty confident in my job on the oil cooler. Water pump Housing???? Any other ideass????
how much oil and what parts did you change/replace. what did you use to flush the cooling system with?
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:02 AM
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It has a milkshake consistancy again after a few thousand km's. I used a Ford cooler replacement kit that I got on E-bay. It was a Ford OEM part. I just flushed with water.
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2005 F-250 Lariat FX4 Crew Cab Short Box 6.0L PSD
Black with Tan Leather
285/65/18 BFG A/T TA KO's
4" MBRP Turbo Back "Cool Duels" w 6" SS Tips
SCT XCal2 with Custom Tunes from Spartan Diesel Technologies

"Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs !!!"
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tttario View Post
It has a milkshake consistancy again after a few thousand km's. I used a Ford cooler replacement kit that I got on E-bay. It was a Ford OEM part. I just flushed with water.
Not good enough! Flush with simple green or cascade, then with 2 qts. of VC-9. After that flush 4 or 5 times with distilled water. Techs recommend new hoses and that the degas bottle and radiator be flushed off of the vehicle if possible after all of that. Then you go back to your 50/50 mix. The oil is extremely hard to get out of the system.
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:13 AM
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You perform the below procedure after flushing with simple green or cascade.

1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or untill water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.

Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling syatem is empty. fficeffice" />>>

>>
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:13 AM
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so the only thing you replaced was just the oil cooler? did you at least pull the plugs out of the block to drain it?
Ive covered this a few times. first off you need to flush the cooling system with simple green.
Ive made a few posts with what other parts that should be replaced at the same time. Ill list them again.
oil cooler
front cover
ever single hose on the truck.
t-stat
waterpump
degas bottle
cap
attempt to flush the heater core if not able to replace it
remove the radiator and send it out to a radiator shop to be flushed.
this is the ford recomended parts to be replaced for about 2 years now.
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheezit View Post
so the only thing you replaced was just the oil cooler? did you at least pull the plugs out of the block to drain it?
Ive covered this a few times. first off you need to flush the cooling system with simple green.
Ive made a few posts with what other parts that should be replaced at the same time. Ill list them again.
oil cooler
front cover
ever single hose on the truck.
t-stat
waterpump
degas bottle
cap
attempt to flush the heater core if not able to replace it
remove the radiator and send it out to a radiator shop to be flushed.
this is the ford recomended parts to be replaced for about 2 years now.
Obviously, I didn't read enough before I tackled this the first time.

Thanks for the clairification! It is much appreciated!

Trevor
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Black with Tan Leather
285/65/18 BFG A/T TA KO's
4" MBRP Turbo Back "Cool Duels" w 6" SS Tips
SCT XCal2 with Custom Tunes from Spartan Diesel Technologies

"Real Trucks Don't Have Spark Plugs !!!"
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:06 AM
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