Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 01-28-2010, 06:40 PM
Rocksetter Rocksetter is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 128
Rocksetter is starting off with a positive reputation.
Bed floor replacement suggestions

1979 f150 4x4 short bed. I live in Michigan and the yards tell me I am looking for a needle in a hay stack here and if I can find one else where it will cost major bucks to replace the whole bed. Other than the floor it is solid. LMC price for the floor is 349.00 I am not looking to make this truck a show truck. It will be used as a truck not a Lincoln. Weld in diamond plate? weld in what ga sheet metal ? cut floor out of later mod truck? any Ideas appreciated .
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-28-2010, 06:59 PM
bob doddle bob doddle is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Florida, Formaly OHIO
Posts: 83
bob doddle is starting off with a positive reputation.
any of the options would work figure out your budget and decide i cant imagine diamond plat being less than lmc though
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:48 PM
nothercrash's Avatar
nothercrash nothercrash is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Norton, MA
Posts: 1,194
nothercrash is starting off with a positive reputation.
I had the same issue doing bodywork on mine last summer. I bought it with a bed full of wet leaves and unfortunately that was a more solid floor than what was underneath. My sides were fine though like yours.
Some info that might be helpful from my experience: If some parts of the floor are OK, I'd reccomend cutting out the bad sections and doing patches, and by patches I mean you can have one 4 feet long, I did, and you can get 4 by like 2 foot I think patches with the ribbed Ford bedfloor pattern from either Summit or JCwhitney for like 25$ a piece. I thought about doing the whole floor, but some problems I ran into were, the floor is alot of the structure of the bed, and if you take the whole thing out, the rest may just fall apart. Also, the floor is welded to all the crossbars underneath, and tearing up the whole thing, from rusty weakened crossbars will be horrible and can also do damage.
I'd say as long as you can weld, put some patches in, even if it needs to be half the floor. Mine came out really nice.
AleX
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-28-2010, 07:52 PM
Rocksetter Rocksetter is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 128
Rocksetter is starting off with a positive reputation.
I have a sheet on hand left over from a old factory that was closed in Detroit. its not in good shape slightly bent, heavy aprox 350 lbs. Thinking about wood but it would be humped up above the rest of the bed would be diff for shoveling out manure ect.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-28-2010, 08:02 PM
Rocksetter Rocksetter is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 128
Rocksetter is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thank you that's the kind of suggestions I am looking for.Was it a pain in the buttox .
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-28-2010, 08:24 PM
4x4 Bart 4x4 Bart is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 1,219
4x4 Bart is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
10 ga. Diamond plate would be pretty tough.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-28-2010, 08:28 PM
bassdude bassdude is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: colorado
Posts: 766
bassdude is starting off with a positive reputation.
I'm using a sheet of 14 gage steel tread plate. luckily the center section was bad and not the outer parts by the fenderwells.
it's 49" between the outers so i got a 4X8 sheet for about 40$ from the steel shop. they actually measure out to about 49" so i bent up the lip that sticks down where all the spot welds were up to meet the new sheet.. filled with weld it looks fine.i took the bottom braces off and transfered them over.
it's not quit as stiff as the old corrugated steel but once i get the bed back on my truck it'll be fine.
plus i think it will look pretty sweet when i get it line-x'd
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-28-2010, 08:44 PM
thekingofcows's Avatar
thekingofcows thekingofcows is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Albany, MS
Posts: 842
thekingofcows is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
This might be the dumbest idea you have ever heard, but I have seen this done on a half cab bronco. Get a couple of road signs, cut to fit your bed floor weld them in and add some bracing from the stock bed cross members if they are rusty. It sounds crazy, but it will never rust, and the metal is more than thick enough, and if you look around, you can probably find some road signs for free.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-28-2010, 08:45 PM
thekingofcows's Avatar
thekingofcows thekingofcows is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: New Albany, MS
Posts: 842
thekingofcows is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Might be kind of slippery when wet, but you could probably add some type of bedliner, and you would have eliminated the variable of a rusted bed.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-29-2010, 03:29 PM
nothercrash's Avatar
nothercrash nothercrash is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Norton, MA
Posts: 1,194
nothercrash is starting off with a positive reputation.
No mine wasn't too much of a pain. Another tip is that u should save and try not to bend the old rusted holey bed sections you cut out, and then when you size up the patch panels, you can just lay the old one on top of the new one and trace around it, and then cut along that line and get a perfect fit.
I have weld bead around all the patches now since that would be a week of grinding to get rid of, but unless you really need to slide really heavy flat bottomed things around inside your bed regularly the little welds won't be a problem.
AleX
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-29-2010, 06:21 PM
Rocksetter Rocksetter is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 128
Rocksetter is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thank you for all the ideas! Nothing here sounds dumb to me road signs I used beer cans and pop rivets on my 65 ford truck patch up the holes in the body. please keep the coming.
Thanks John
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 01-30-2010, 01:30 PM
Rocksetter Rocksetter is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 128
Rocksetter is starting off with a positive reputation.
Alex thanks for the tip on the patch panels found them at Jc whitney 16x48 31.99 ea. will be ordering as soon as I measure the bad areas. Thank you this seems like the best idea. JCW guarantees the fit and is purchased by the year and make of truck.They are 20 ga.and are made to fit over the rotted out areas. What did you use to cut the new panels?
Thanks John
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 01-30-2010, 02:29 PM
nothercrash's Avatar
nothercrash nothercrash is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Norton, MA
Posts: 1,194
nothercrash is starting off with a positive reputation.
I used my grinder with a cutting wheel for the whole thing. You'll go through a couple wheels, but I'd think it's probably the only way, too thick for tin snips.
AleX
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 01-30-2010, 06:24 PM
4x4 Bart 4x4 Bart is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 1,219
4x4 Bart is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
I wish someone would stamp a full size sheet for the center section. i would be willing to pony up a little extra coin for an easy to replace OEM look!!!!!
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 01-31-2010, 12:33 PM
Rocksetter Rocksetter is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 128
Rocksetter is starting off with a positive reputation.
I second that one 4x4 Bart. I am thinking of using body panel adhesive to put the patch panels in the guys in paint and body work seem to like the stuff. It is said that it is as strong as welding less clean up an no metal distortion. Any one here use it?
Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2010, 12:33 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
bed, bronco, corrugated, diamond, f100, f150, floor, ford, original, plate, replace, replacement, rusted, rusty, short, sides, stamp, tooling, truck

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
bed floor replacement jb10 1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 2 01-11-2013 02:08 PM
bed floor replacement panels airharley Paint & Bodywork 4 03-08-2007 06:47 PM
1953 F100 Bed flatf100 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 2 11-14-2002 08:30 AM
1969 bed floor replacement??? chetcowan 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 3 07-25-2001 07:57 PM
77 Short Bed 77_F150_4x4 Paint & Bodywork 2 11-21-2000 10:11 PM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:41 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup