There are two different varieties we can use on our trucks. One has a non ford type key and no slip cover plate. It's less expensive than the stock type replacement. $13 at C&G - part number is on the pic:



The other type is more like the stock lock and has th estainless steel slip cover. It has a Ford lock key and can be repinned to fit your existing ignition or glove box lock keys. $35 at C&G part number is on the pic:



These are available at most of the Resto parts places.

 

Hmmm...

The part I have is the B-7121984 from C&G. I called C&G and the fellow was very helpful. He pulled both the "original" and the "replacement" style cylinders off the shelf and compared the two. He confirmed that the replacement style rotates 180 degrees and only allows the key to be removed at 0 and 180 degrees. What's even more baffling is that the original style cylinder rotates 360 degrees, and only allows the key to be removed at 0 and 360 degrees. He also said that the shaft on the original style rotates the whole time the key is rotating.

I've double-check my door latch and confirmed that it wants a 0 to 90 degree cylinder. I don't see how either of these lock cylinders could work with my latch.

I'm stumped!

-DV

 

Sorry folks. I'm an engineer and I tend to use "geek-speak" unnecessarily. I don't realize that I'm doing it unless someone (usually my wife) tells me. I have translated my last post into English:

The part I have is the B-7121984 from C&G. I called C&G and the fellow was very helpful. He pulled both the "original" and the "replacement" style cylinders off the shelf and compared the two. He confirmed that the replacement style rotates a half-turn and only allows the key to be removed at each end. What's even more baffling is that the original style cylinder rotates a full turn, and only allows the key to be removed at each end. He also said that the shaft on the original style rotates the whole time the key is rotating.

I've double-check my door latch and confirmed that it wants a quarter-turn cylinder. I don't see how either of these lock cylinders could work with my latch.

-DV

 

I don't know who you talked to at C&G or if it was the Escondido store, but he's plain wrong about the shaft on the stock type lock turning the entire time the key is turning. The barrel coming out of the lock turns but has a slotted reciever in it for the shaft that actually engages the door bolt. That shaft has a pin in it that "Floats" in the slotted barrel for at least 1/4 possibly 1/2 turn.

The barrel turns and at 1/4 turn, a pin in the shaft finally is pushed by the barrel and it continues to push it through the remained of th e360 degree rotation. When the lock is inlocked, the same thing happens, the barrel turns and the shaft does not until the slot in the barrel engages the pin and pushes it through the remainder of its rotation.

If you have stock door latch mechanisms, both will work - I have used both but prefered the stock look locks with the cover.

Let me get up in the I gave my non stock locks to Ilya, but I have one stock lock in the parts box. Let me get up ther and get it and see if I can't take some pictures that will help.......Stand by!

 

I need to go take the latch/handles back out of the truck. I must be missing something.

 

Julie,

I went back and looked at the lock/latch again, and the bottom line is that I'm an idiot.

The lock cam does indeed want a half a turn of movement (not a quarter). I think the problem was that the indention for the set screw in the new lock cylinder did not allow a full half turn of movement. I'll just drill a shallow indention in a different place if I need to.

Thanks again for all the help and sorry for the confusion!

-DV

 

You're so funny!

I think the new lock cylinders only make half a turn and thus there is no slipage of the pin when it rotates. That would explain why it only turns half way around and the key goes in facing down and comes out facing up.

The new one has that 1/4 turn slip on it - possibly on both sides of the rotation (so 2 quarters slip on both sides and 12 to turn the bolt) allows it to always have the key face down when inserting or extracting. So in order to install the older style you need to rotate it through that 1/2 movement first (so it is in position to start turning the lock cam) then insert it. It does the same thing in reverse.

There should be set screw indents on both sides of the lock cylinder so it can be mounted on either door.

Do you still want me to take some pictures?

 

No need for more photos Julie. Thanks for the offer!

-DV

 

check this post
Sagging Door Handles - Page 3 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

Thanks for the Info Benijeep!

Why don't you start a new thread and introduce yourself to everyone....Welcome to FTE!

 

thanks......I will

 

It's been year and a half since my last post on this thread. I was able to correct the "sagging door handle" problem (but only after enduring all you guys' corny Viagra jokes!).

I'd still like to install power door locks. I bought the power lock kit from LMC (the one listed on the F1 door parts page). This kit is identical to one that I installed on my 2007 truck a couple of years ago. I don't see an easy way (or even a not so easy way) to install power locks on an F1 without replacing the entire door latch mechanism. The problem is the dual mode action of the latch... the same linkage that locks the outside door handle also operates the door latch.

I searched back through the forum again to see if I missed something, and I apologize if there is an obvious thread on power locks for F1's, but I couldn't find anything.

Any F1 owners out there that has done this or seen it done?

 

ive found a keyless entry kit for a 48 to 56 ford here is the link
Truck Parts and Truck Accessories locks

 

I ordered that kit and sent it back. It will not work on F1's. The locking mechanism is more complicated than these simple linear solenoids can accommodate.

 

The original linkage likely works on some sort of linear path, so a linkage should be able to be created that would work. A linear solenoid can even be converted to rotational operation using a bellcrank or cam. I have built a lot of radio controlled models that required creative linkages to operate. Some of the linkages and parts designed for modelers may even be adapted. I used several parts out of my modeling stash to hook up my solenoids and inside handles. It's not a good idea to disconnect or do away with the inside handles, you want an intuitive way to open the doors in an emergency, not hunting for an out of the way switch or key fob.