Tail light, Parking light, Running Light, Dash Light Problems
#76
02-25-2014, 04:42 PM
Mountain Pass
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Southern Arizona
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That doesn't make sense. The taillights are the running lights, and they have the brake/turn inside them also. Your dually I believe has a relay and separate circuit just for the marker lights on the dually fenders only.
Let's go through this again; When you pull the light switch out all the way, the headlights, the markers beside the headlights, the lights in the dually fenders, the license plate lights and the taillights should be on. When you hit the brakes, the tailights should get brighter.
Let's go through this again; When you pull the light switch out all the way, the headlights, the markers beside the headlights, the lights in the dually fenders, the license plate lights and the taillights should be on. When you hit the brakes, the tailights should get brighter.
#77
02-25-2014, 06:31 PM
Ok, just the rear fender lights? I am thinking that is on the relay the factory added, and the dealer may have tapped into that circuit.
I looked at the 89 diagrams, and you may have two relays. One is called the trailer light relay and the other is called the marker light relay. The marker light relay is only found on dually pickups. There is one problem; The diagrams I have do not show the location of these relays. In these earlier years they could be anywhere, I would try looking under the hood for a little box with relays in it. Try your owners manual too if you have one.
I looked at the 89 diagrams, and you may have two relays. One is called the trailer light relay and the other is called the marker light relay. The marker light relay is only found on dually pickups. There is one problem; The diagrams I have do not show the location of these relays. In these earlier years they could be anywhere, I would try looking under the hood for a little box with relays in it. Try your owners manual too if you have one.
#78
02-25-2014, 06:50 PM
Mountain Pass
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Southern Arizona
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Ok, just the rear fender lights? I am thinking that is on the relay the factory added, and the dealer may have tapped into that circuit.
I looked at the 89 diagrams, and you may have two relays. One is called the trailer light relay and the other is called the marker light relay. The marker light relay is only found on dually pickups. There is one problem; The diagrams I have do not show the location of these relays. In these earlier years they could be anywhere, I would try looking under the hood for a little box with relays in it. Try your owners manual too if you have one.
I looked at the 89 diagrams, and you may have two relays. One is called the trailer light relay and the other is called the marker light relay. The marker light relay is only found on dually pickups. There is one problem; The diagrams I have do not show the location of these relays. In these earlier years they could be anywhere, I would try looking under the hood for a little box with relays in it. Try your owners manual too if you have one.
#79
02-26-2014, 12:10 AM
Very common problem. First check the fuse for the running lights. If that's ok, pull the headlight switch back out and check for voltage on the tan/white wire.
Most likely because of your symptoms, you will find the tan/white wire dead. So follow this wire back and see if it's burnt in two. If it's not, then go back to the fuse and double check for power there.
The tan/white is what feeds the taillamps/running lights and also the dash lights. The power comes right out of the fuse to the tan/white, and the feeds the headlight switch.
The tan/white does not feed the headlights, they have a different power source feeding the headlight switch. What you are doing by pulling the headlight switch out halfway is crossing the contacts inside the switch, so the power for the headlights is jumping over and feeding the running lights circuit, which is supposed to be fed by the tan/white.
Most likely because of your symptoms, you will find the tan/white wire dead. So follow this wire back and see if it's burnt in two. If it's not, then go back to the fuse and double check for power there.
The tan/white is what feeds the taillamps/running lights and also the dash lights. The power comes right out of the fuse to the tan/white, and the feeds the headlight switch.
The tan/white does not feed the headlights, they have a different power source feeding the headlight switch. What you are doing by pulling the headlight switch out halfway is crossing the contacts inside the switch, so the power for the headlights is jumping over and feeding the running lights circuit, which is supposed to be fed by the tan/white.
Last edited by natipower; 02-26-2014 at 12:12 AM. Reason: missing words
#80
02-26-2014, 03:10 PM
hi I'm having the same problem and I'm going through the owners manual and I'm trying to find where the wires lead to but i do not know what the book is referring to where it says: "Near T/O to headlight dimmer switch" what does T/O mean? I have an 1987 ford 350 eco no line travel máster rv, thanks in advance, natipower (it is an econoline truck)
#81
02-27-2014, 02:19 PM
running light: bottom rear, front parking roof top and rear running lights, and dash lights. I am looking the tan wire. I found it on the front and of the vehicle but cannot follow it to the top lights? What would be the best way to find it and is there an alternative work around? the side fender lights as non working too plz
#82
02-27-2014, 06:26 PM
running light: bottom rear, front parking roof top and rear running lights, and dash lights. I am looking the tan wire. I found it on the front and of the vehicle but cannot follow it to the top lights? What would be the best way to find it and is there an alternative work around? the side fender lights as non working too plz
#83
03-15-2014, 09:52 AM
#84
03-19-2014, 12:23 PM
No dash , brake or tail lights
#85
04-01-2014, 09:25 AM
Very common problem. First check the fuse for the running lights. If that's ok, pull the headlight switch back out and check for voltage on the tan/white wire.
Most likely because of your symptoms, you will find the tan/white wire dead. So follow this wire back and see if it's burnt in two. If it's not, then go back to the fuse and double check for power there.
The tan/white is what feeds the taillamps/running lights and also the dash lights. The power comes right out of the fuse to the tan/white, and the feeds the headlight switch.
The tan/white does not feed the headlights, they have a different power source feeding the headlight switch. What you are doing by pulling the headlight switch out halfway is crossing the contacts inside the switch, so the power for the headlights is jumping over and feeding the running lights circuit, which is supposed to be fed by the tan/white.
Most likely because of your symptoms, you will find the tan/white wire dead. So follow this wire back and see if it's burnt in two. If it's not, then go back to the fuse and double check for power there.
The tan/white is what feeds the taillamps/running lights and also the dash lights. The power comes right out of the fuse to the tan/white, and the feeds the headlight switch.
The tan/white does not feed the headlights, they have a different power source feeding the headlight switch. What you are doing by pulling the headlight switch out halfway is crossing the contacts inside the switch, so the power for the headlights is jumping over and feeding the running lights circuit, which is supposed to be fed by the tan/white.
I am trying to uunderstand if this applies to my 2001 expedition. I have no taillights, no dash illumination and no "your lights are on dummy" buzzer. I checked Fuse #8 under the dash and it was blown. i replaced the fuse and it blew again after a short, undetermined time. I was wondering if the "lights are on dummy" buzzer is on that same circuit. I think the fuse blew when I forgot to turn the lights off, with the key out, and opened the door. Do you still recommend tracing the tan/white wire or does any of this help isolate the problem any better?
Thank you
#86
04-01-2014, 10:50 AM
#87
04-01-2014, 11:04 AM
#88
04-02-2014, 09:12 AM
I'm sorry my head got ahead of my fingers. I think it was #18 under the dash which supplies the dash illumination and it was not blown. i checked fuse#6 under the hood which supplies #18.
I replaced 15A fuse (#6 under the hood) again this morning and within a few moments it blew, I no longer suspect the dummy buzzer, so I guess I just want to verify this is the same issue this thread addressed. I plan to take the under the hood fuse box loose and check underneath for a short.
I replaced 15A fuse (#6 under the hood) again this morning and within a few moments it blew, I no longer suspect the dummy buzzer, so I guess I just want to verify this is the same issue this thread addressed. I plan to take the under the hood fuse box loose and check underneath for a short.
#89
04-02-2014, 09:24 AM
Ok, I went and looked at the owners manual. It is Fuse #6 (15A) under the hood that is blowing.
Are the license plate lights on that same circuit? I have an after market license plate holder with an LED light that I wired (poorly) a couple of years ago. That was a quick 5 minute install to get it past inspection and I was never happy with it.
Are the license plate lights on that same circuit? I have an after market license plate holder with an LED light that I wired (poorly) a couple of years ago. That was a quick 5 minute install to get it past inspection and I was never happy with it.
#90
04-02-2014, 10:04 AM
Is it possible that the tail light wire could be corroded @ shorting out on metal somewhere along the line. I had the same symptoms too, even swapped out the light switch a coupletimes because I wwasn't getting the"lights are on" chime either. Still using original switch
The power and ground wires internal to the LED license plate light were fused together.
That's what I get for buying cheap chinese crap.
Hopefully this will be my last post for this item!!!
***** J - the taillight comment sent this one in the right direction, thank you!!!
