no brake lights
#1
#2
#4
no brake lights
Just was wondering if there has been any tran or clutch work lately. Twice I have seen the cross member laying on the wiring harness and a few weeks later rub though.
Also in the older truck the wireing end go bad to the switch. alot of time it easier to cut off and install new ends
Also in the older truck the wireing end go bad to the switch. alot of time it easier to cut off and install new ends
#6
#7
no brake lights
>Mike, we'd like to help, but can't
>hold your hand. Go to post
>1 and then 2 then 3.
>Run the wire backwards to the
>fuse block. Was the ign. switch
>on?
>John
hey, thanks for what you have said to me so far. today i was messing with it and i turned on the ignition and headlight switch, i had juice at the brake light switch. i had my old lady look and see if i had brake lights when i jumped the switch. she said she didn't see any brake lights coming on. so then i stopped messing with it and went in the house. i came back out later and was going to try it again, i did the same thing as last, turned on the lights and the ignition. when i checked for juice this time at the switch there wasnt any. could that be in a switch somewhere? this weekend i am going to start digging on it. can you explain to me how the wiring system for the rear lighting is laid out so i will have a better understanding this weekend? i dont have a manual yet. thanks so far, man.
>hold your hand. Go to post
>1 and then 2 then 3.
>Run the wire backwards to the
>fuse block. Was the ign. switch
>on?
>John
hey, thanks for what you have said to me so far. today i was messing with it and i turned on the ignition and headlight switch, i had juice at the brake light switch. i had my old lady look and see if i had brake lights when i jumped the switch. she said she didn't see any brake lights coming on. so then i stopped messing with it and went in the house. i came back out later and was going to try it again, i did the same thing as last, turned on the lights and the ignition. when i checked for juice this time at the switch there wasnt any. could that be in a switch somewhere? this weekend i am going to start digging on it. can you explain to me how the wiring system for the rear lighting is laid out so i will have a better understanding this weekend? i dont have a manual yet. thanks so far, man.
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#8
no brake lights
Mike The best thing to do is lay your hands on the wires and follow them. BTW the brake lights work with out the headlights being on, so I don't get that connection.
At the master cylinder, you depress the pedel to trigger the switch. 1- with the ignition switch ON one of the 2 wires connected to the brake light switch should be hot (find it). This is simple, don't try to make it complicated. 2- unplug the other wire, and with a test light in hand, have someone (the old lady will do fine) press the brake pedel. The exposed post on the brake light switch at the master cylinder should be hot (circut complete) if not replace the switch, if it is, place the wire back on and follow the wire to the brake light bulbs. You should find the problem along the way.
At the master cylinder, you depress the pedel to trigger the switch. 1- with the ignition switch ON one of the 2 wires connected to the brake light switch should be hot (find it). This is simple, don't try to make it complicated. 2- unplug the other wire, and with a test light in hand, have someone (the old lady will do fine) press the brake pedel. The exposed post on the brake light switch at the master cylinder should be hot (circut complete) if not replace the switch, if it is, place the wire back on and follow the wire to the brake light bulbs. You should find the problem along the way.
#9
no brake lights
first,lets set one thing sraight,the ignition does not have to be ON for the BRAKE or HAZARD lights to function when they are applied or turned on.You should have battery voltage at the brake light switch(RED) at all times,if the fuse and the wire is good.The fuse for the hazard is the same and the RED wire comes from the hazard flasher.Sometimes the fuse just needs to be removed & reinstalled,creating a good contact(FORD Courier experiences).If the RED wire is hot,jump the 2 wires at the master cyl.(pre-1967)and check for juice at the steering column/turn signal switch(RED-BLK).If the juice has made it to this point,repair the defective turn signal switch.
Phillip
Phillip
#11
no brake lights
Mr Guidry, please take a seat and raise your hand before you jump up next time. If this is the same Mike with the 65 F100, you are incorrect. You have made me drive 4 miles one way to my shop to get my test light and I checked both of my 66F100s and The igition DOES have to be on before there is power at the brake light switch.
You may know a lot about newer truck electronics, but I believe there is more for you to learn about the old ones.
To be fair to you I checked my 97 Taurus and the brake lights do work with out the ignition switch being on.
I was driving the 66 when it was new.
Respectfully
John
You may know a lot about newer truck electronics, but I believe there is more for you to learn about the old ones.
To be fair to you I checked my 97 Taurus and the brake lights do work with out the ignition switch being on.
I was driving the 66 when it was new.
Respectfully
John
#12
#14
no brake lights
hey thanks for the reply, i have a queation for ya. i am looking for a company that sells replaceable balljoints for a 66 mustang. i am looking for the kind that you can bolt in to the lower control arm instead of buying the whole damn control arm. the used to sell them that way but i can't seem to find them any more. i am installing them on a 66 ranchero, but mustang will work. please reply.
#15
no brake lights
>hey thanks for the reply, i have
>a queation for ya. i am
>looking for a company that sells
>replaceable balljoints for a 66 mustang.
>i am looking for the kind
>that you can bolt in to
>the lower control arm instead of
>buying the whole damn control arm.
>the used to sell them that
>way but i can't seem to
>find them any more. i am
>installing them on a 66 ranchero,
>but mustang will work. please reply.
>
Know exactly what you mean. My sources all show assemblies only. I have changed the lower joint assembly on two Mustangs (65 and 67) and needed the frame section because my originals were beat up and badly rusted. A great place to post your question is www.vintage-mustang.com. You will be inundated with good advice; it is an excellent site.
>a queation for ya. i am
>looking for a company that sells
>replaceable balljoints for a 66 mustang.
>i am looking for the kind
>that you can bolt in to
>the lower control arm instead of
>buying the whole damn control arm.
>the used to sell them that
>way but i can't seem to
>find them any more. i am
>installing them on a 66 ranchero,
>but mustang will work. please reply.
>
Know exactly what you mean. My sources all show assemblies only. I have changed the lower joint assembly on two Mustangs (65 and 67) and needed the frame section because my originals were beat up and badly rusted. A great place to post your question is www.vintage-mustang.com. You will be inundated with good advice; it is an excellent site.