actually vaccum - suction should be about14-17inches of vaccum, i use that spec only cuz most cars operate there vaccum acc. at that level. Maybe working good at as little as 10inches.Haven't really ever measured it,are you having trouble with something not working?
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dirty, when you didnt have power brakes, did heat selecter work? did it actually blow out the vents other than defrost?
i pretty much have no power breaks, and its somethin iv been putting off that i need to get fixed
96 f350xlt cclb 4x4 7.3 238/100 rosewoods, 3.73 gears
96 f-superduty xl cc cnc, unstarted project truck - accumulating parts: zf6, super 60 and s110 plus a pile of other parts
2000 vw jetta tdi, gay, but 45mpg makes up for it
happend in the summer... didnt check the heater i just started at the pump and that was around 5 when i heard it was suposed to be around 20. i think if you just start checking every vacuum line you may find a leak of some sort. but also if the check valve on the booster isnt doing its job right then that would also cause problems i would think.
this is a vacuum test out of chilton pro repair manual: Vacuum Leak Test
Operate the engine at idle without touching the brake pedal for at least one minute.
Turn off the engine and wait one minute.
Test for the presence of assist vacuum by depressing the brake pedal and releasing it several times. If vacuum is present in the system, light application will produce less and less pedal travel. If there is no vacuum, air is leaking into the system.
my brakes work there just squishy and pedel goes done pretty far, I bleed them a couple times, I have worst luck with the brake system i put all new lines on new brake cylinders brake booster and master cylinder all at once last year, and still have problems,
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