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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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  #31  
Old 07-20-2014, 07:00 PM
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beastlybertram bertramlee1995
No issues that I'm aware of with the transmission itself. I'd imagine it's not bulletproof, but I've never personally seen one break. The real downfall is that they are not common, they've been out of production for a long time, and I doubt there's many places or parts to repair them. Plus the floor shifter conversions weren't too pretty and many people just swapped them for 4 or 5 speeds. If I had one functional, personally I'd keep it functional to keep it original.
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1980 Ford F100 Ranger Lariat - 427/C4/9"/3.08 - Restoring...
1992 Ford F150 XLT - 347/M5OD/8.8/3.55 - 300K
1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer - AMC360/TC727/NP229/Dana44 F&R/3.31 - 125K
1995 Chevrolet Cheyenne C2500 - 350/4L60E/14 Bolt/3.73 - 312K
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  #32  
Old 07-20-2014, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger80 View Post
No issues that I'm aware of with the transmission itself. I'd imagine it's not bulletproof, but I've never personally seen one break. The real downfall is that they are not common, they've been out of production for a long time, and I doubt there's many places or parts to repair them. Plus the floor shifter conversions weren't too pretty and many people just swapped them for 4 or 5 speeds. If I had one functional, personally I'd keep it functional to keep it original.
Well there's no apparent issues. Just wasn't sure what to watch out for. If the tranny were to go out what would be the easiest cheapest replacement besides a 277? That's the other 3 spd I know but it's not synchroed in first.
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  #33  
Old 07-20-2014, 09:38 PM
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beastlybertram bertramlee1995
The easiest replacement would be to go automatic. As was said, the main failure point on these setups is the shift collar, which are impossible to find for this era truck. Older ones can be milled down a little to work, but most people just swap everything. Yours being a 1980 will have the mechanical z-bar style clutch setup, which was only used from '80-'83, so it's not always so easy to get this era trans/bellhousing. If you don't feel like cutting the holes for the newer hydraulic style clutch, getting the correct pedal assembly, or cutting the floor out for a floor shifter, the easiest thing to do is swap the flywheel for the proper flexplate for whichever automatic you run, and swapping in an auto column and pedal assembly.

On the contrary, if your trans dies before the column breaks, the 3-speed column linkage can technically be used to shift an auto trans. The clutch pedal can stay just for looks, or you can swap the pedal assemblies.
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1980 Ford F100 Ranger Lariat - 427/C4/9"/3.08 - Restoring...
1992 Ford F150 XLT - 347/M5OD/8.8/3.55 - 300K
1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer - AMC360/TC727/NP229/Dana44 F&R/3.31 - 125K
1995 Chevrolet Cheyenne C2500 - 350/4L60E/14 Bolt/3.73 - 312K
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  #34  
Old 07-20-2014, 09:53 PM
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How would the linkage still be able to operate an automatic transmission?

I do have one problem with the shifter. It's very loose and sloppy in gear. It's not hard to get in gear or anything but once it's in the arm still moves 3 inches or so in every gear. Is there a bushing in the column that I can replace?
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  #35  
Old 07-20-2014, 10:33 PM
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beastlybertram bertramlee1995
If you look at the 3 speed column vs. the auto column, they're very similar. The automatic column has locking mechanisms built in for locking the shifter in park, or preventing you from going from drive to reverse without pulling the lever toward you. The 3 speed column has two channels to move in and has no such locking devices. One channel is for R-1 and the other 2-3. If you look at where the linkage is just as the column exits the firewall, you'll notice there is one linkage on the auto and two on the 3 speed. Whichever one matches closest to the linkage on the auto trans is the one you use, then you just keep the gear shift in whichever channel operates that particular linkage. It's a little crude, but it will work fine if you don't want the hassle of swapping columns. Only downside is you'd have to count the clicks of the gear shift to tell what gear you're in and keep in mind there are no lock devices to keep it from shifting to another gear if the shifter is moved.
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1980 Ford F100 Ranger Lariat - 427/C4/9"/3.08 - Restoring...
1992 Ford F150 XLT - 347/M5OD/8.8/3.55 - 300K
1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer - AMC360/TC727/NP229/Dana44 F&R/3.31 - 125K
1995 Chevrolet Cheyenne C2500 - 350/4L60E/14 Bolt/3.73 - 312K
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  #36  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Ranger80 View Post
If you look at the 3 speed column vs. the auto column, they're very similar. The automatic column has locking mechanisms built in for locking the shifter in park, or preventing you from going from drive to reverse without pulling the lever toward you. The 3 speed column has two channels to move in and has no such locking devices. One channel is for R-1 and the other 2-3. If you look at where the linkage is just as the column exits the firewall, you'll notice there is one linkage on the auto and two on the 3 speed. Whichever one matches closest to the linkage on the auto trans is the one you use, then you just keep the gear shift in whichever channel operates that particular linkage. It's a little crude, but it will work fine if you don't want the hassle of swapping columns. Only downside is you'd have to count the clicks of the gear shift to tell what gear you're in and keep in mind there are no lock devices to keep it from shifting to another gear if the shifter is moved.
Can you rig a locking device for it? I'm not expecting my tranny to go out, I'm just curious.
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  #37  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:55 PM
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beastlybertram bertramlee1995
Not easily, it'd have to be rigged for sure.
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1980 Ford F100 Ranger Lariat - 427/C4/9"/3.08 - Restoring...
1992 Ford F150 XLT - 347/M5OD/8.8/3.55 - 300K
1989 Jeep Grand Wagoneer - AMC360/TC727/NP229/Dana44 F&R/3.31 - 125K
1995 Chevrolet Cheyenne C2500 - 350/4L60E/14 Bolt/3.73 - 312K
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Old 07-20-2014, 11:55 PM
 
 
 
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