1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series TrucksDiscuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks
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Is it hitting the timing cover? Honestly, I'd just get a longer belt. If you mount the alt low, it may just mean you need to buy a shorter fan belt, and you go thru the whole mess again.
That was the issue. the "parts dude" at advanced auto had no clue how to get a longer belt. I'll have to run up to napa. I was curious if I had a short belt or the wrong bracket or was just doing something wrong.
I found out the problem. the old belt is a but undersized, but the bracket I have is hitting the top ion my intake "slot" I'm going to trip the bracket down a smidge right in the corner and see what happens. I tried the longer belt and it's too long, So I have to make another trip up there tomorrow. I want to lower it a to lessen the leverage applied to the bracket.
PS, It looks like my bracket "slot" is broken on the passengers side will this be a problem??
Where did yall get the brackets? I found several different places online, but they all have a note that they won't work with the 5/8's truck belt. One site says you must shave off 1/2-5/8 of the bottom of the alt. and the spacers to get proper alignment. Anybody selling one that will fit the trucks?
Mitch, where do you see those notes ? Personally I use narrow belts anyway, but that sounds like the problems Bob had. I never heard of those problems until recently, plenty of 59-series flatties were converted long before I did mine, plenty of 8BA's were too, and none of them mentioned any such problems. I have to believe the grinding and spacers are when you use a certain alternator and when you want to use the stock belt? Either that or they changed the design of the slingshots? Did the supply of 10Si alternators dry up?
I got my setup from Certified Electric on eBay, went on with no problems whatsoever. At the time I bought, you specified wide or narrow belts and neither of them required a spacer or pulley extension for either pulley, yet lately I've seen as much as 2" spacers behind the pulley.
Didn't make sense to me either. Yours did not come with a spacer? Sounds like they mean that the alt. has to set farther back toward the engine to allow for the wider belts. I'm emailing the co.'s to ask. I think they are refering to a spacer that goes behind the bracket, not a pulley spacer. The co. you mentioned list the same bracket for the car and truck even though they clearly list them as having the different belt widths. What width belt do you use? My pulleys are measuring 5/8's.
Mounts the common SI-style GM alternator in a centered location on 1946-1953 Flathead Ford V8s. This bracket is made to work with the two narrow belt drive system typical of late 1950 to 1953 Ford/Mercury passenger cars. To use this bracket on a wide belt car or truck you would need to cut approximately 1/2"-5/8" from the wide boss on the base of the alternator. You would also need to cut a similar amount from the spacer supplied with the bracket. Choose plain or chrome.
1946-1953 Flathead Alternator Mounting Bracket - Plain $48.95
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This one from the fifth ave garage:
Fits all 1946-1953 Ford Flathead applications. Mounts the 89/90 series alternator in the same position as the original generator. You use the same belt and adjustment procedure as before.
Note: The Flathead Ford Brackets will also fit Mercury and most Lincoln applications.
Tech Tip - 89502LB brackets are not designed to be used in combination with long shaft truck water pumps.
This one from speedway motors:
Just because you've got a vintage Flathead Ford V8 in your ride doesn't mean you want an antiquated charging system. Upgrading to a tried-and-true GM-style alternator is a good upgrade for any Flathead-equipped vehicle with a 12-volt electrical system.
This heavy-duty chrome bracket makes it easy to mount that reliable alternator on your old Flattie.
This bracket is made to work with the two narrow belt drive system typical of late 1950 to 1953 Ford/Mercury passenger cars. It will not work with wide belts unless the alternator is modified.
To use this bracket on a wide belt car or truck you would need to cut approximately 1/2"-5/8" from the wide boss on the base of the alternator. You would also need to cut a similar amount from the spacer supplied with the bracket. This must be done to get the alternator pulley to line up with the drive belt.
I went back and read the into on those sites again. It says narrow two belt system on passenger cars. Maybe this includes the 5/8's belts. Doesn't really say, but could be that wide belt is refering to a large aftermarket serpentine belt or something like that? Hopefully, they will clear it up when they get my emails.
also the trouble with installing it was all my fault. The bracket was fine and a regular 5/8" belt should work. I could not get the belt over the pulley. once I tipped the bracket forward evrything went together.
I don't know what to say. Like the Certified Electric auction says, their bracket works with either wide or flat, you just swap pulleys. What is the boss on the alternator they are saying needs to be hacked?
For various reasons (PO related), my engine is a car engine that I put truck water pumps on with car pulleys. So my setup is like a car's (two narrow belts).
What's confusing me is that car and truck generators (AFAIK) are identical except for the width of the sheave, and so is the shoe they mount in. Can one of you post a picture of a truck generator that shows the sheave mounted on it?
Edit: it sounds like they are saying that the mount and alternator need to move down, not to the front?
1952 F-1 Flat V8 3-on-the-tree MSD, Rochester 2G, Red's Headers
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