Here's my story and a few questions below if anyone can help. I have read most the posts I can find on these subjects, can't find specific answers I am looking for.

"04" 6.0 PSD with 75K. Just started pulling a 12000# 5th wheel last summer, no problems prior. Started puking out of degas bottle-kept filling it till we got home, antifreeze smells real bad like it's burnt, temp gauge never went up?. Truck is in for new EGR/oil coolers at ford dealer and road test to check pressure after replacement to see if its head gaskets per ford shop recommendations. Also planning on putting in coolant filter.

-Wondering if head gaskets, APR studs and heads should be done right away due to possible exposure to excessive temps.

-Are stock gaskets OK?

-Any extra-ordinary coolant system flushing treatments that I should do over and above the VC-9 iron cleaner and min 4 flushes with distilled water?

-Are after market EGR and oil coolers the way to go instead of OEM?

Thanks in advance.

 

you should really get a set of gauges. the factory temp gauge in the dash is really just a glorified idiot light. by the time it starts to move you are most likely all ready to hot. If it were me I would delete the egr color (or at least bypass), buy a sct to turn the egr off, install a coolant filter, and arp studs. if the test at the dealer says that there is no HG problem than I wouldnt worry about it yet, unless you have the money now and want to put the studs in for peace of mind. there are many reasons for the puking other than egr and heads. How much coolant are putting in the degass bottle? you are only supposed to fill to the min. line. could also be a bad cap on the bottle. but since you already have it at ford I would assume (you know what that means) they checked everything out and found the egr/oil cooler to be bad and that is why they are replacing them. GL and let us know how it turns out.

 

I got lucky, my 04 03engine build started puking and also running the engine fan when under load. Turned out to be a blocked oil cooler. It was full of casting sand and was allowing only a very small amount of coolant into the egr cooler. That turned to steam right quick and burped out the degas bottle. Big tell tale was a very large difference between the oil temp and coolant temp. Almost 30 deg. Replaced the oil cooler and just to be safe the egr cooler. Had the old one pressure tested and then sold it on ebay. I also had a freeze plug welded into the exhaust input end of the egr cooler. No more exhaust into the egr or manifold but it all looks stock and the egr valve works as normal. Only addition to the engine is a coolant filter. First filter change had plenty of gunk in it. Second much better. Third coming up so will really have a good handle on it then. Total cost for the repair was $2500 and about 60 or so for the coolant filter and fittings. Hope this helps.

 

Where did you get your coolant filter kit?

 

try this


http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...S&Category=459

great system

 

Same hear. I installed the by-pass coolant filter about 25k ago, have replaced the filter twice already and then by EGR cooler, Oil cooler and HG went. Replace it with ARP and a new coolant filter just incase all that work dislodged some more sand and grit in the cooling system. I will check and maybe replace the filter in about 3k.

 

How hard was it to install? And how hard to change the filter? The hardest thing I've ever done is the high idle and zoodad... Lol

 

Quite easy, and quite a few write-ups on here with lots of useful information. Simply a matter of bolting on the filter assembly, cutting a few hoses, tightening the clamps, and your ready to go. Probably a solid 2 hrs from hood latch to topping off the coolant level (added capacity). Also a good time for a flush and fill. I would recommend the shut-off valves. They make filter change much less messy. I still spill a bit on filter changes but its not too bad.

 

Can pu direct me to a write up on the install? And how bout a write upon change and flushing the coolant? And what type, and how much of coolant do I need?

 

I used the NAPA filter and bought the necessary plumbing parts at Home Depot. Easy to install with the filter on the frame under the front seat passengers feet.

 

Before I would pay to get HGs done, I would verify that you actually have a HG issue by testing for exhaust gas in the coolant tank. IMO, this is the only way to verify a HG problem. Go on line and buy an Exhaust Gas Test Kit for about $50 or ask the dealer to perform the test.

U-View Gas and Diesel Combustion Leak Testing Kit - eToolDirect

This will test the air in the coolant tank for exhaust gas. if you have no exhaust gas in the coolant tank, you don't have a HG problem. Replace the EGR cooler and rebuild the oil cooler. Not sure if you have to do emissions testing where you are but if you have an early build 6.0 with the ROUND EGR cooler, go to Advance Auto and get a 1.375" freeze plug and press it into the EGR cooler end that attaches to the exhaust pipe. It fits perfect. That will eliminate exhaust gas flow through your new EGR cooler and prevent any future EGR cooler failures.

If you have to replace the HGs, OEM HGs and ARP studs are the way to go. I had a very small amount of exhaust gas in my coolant and elected to just replace the OEM head bolts with the studs and not replace the HGs. That curred my exhaust gas in the coolant problem but I still had some minor puking. So I replaced the EGR cooler and rebuilt the oil cooler and no more puking or exhaust gas in the coolant problems.

A coolant filter will probably not due you any good at 75K miles. According to Ken Neal at Neal Technologies unless you install a coolant filter on the truck right after you buy it, the oil and EGR coolers become the coolant filter. That is the reason you are replacing them now. From what I have read, guys who installed the coolant filters early got the most debris and extended their EGR and oil coolers life. I installed mine at 35K miles and now have 83K miles on the X. I changed the filter once after about 5,000 miles. Very little debris in the filter or the bottom of the canister. All of mine had already started to collect in the EGR and oil coolers.

DSMMH

 

I just got a call from the dealer today after dropping my truck off this morning. I had two main issues to report after last 1000 mile trip pulling my 15Klb Toy Hauler to Oregon. I have a stock 05 350 DWR with Tow Boss (430 gears) Lariat.

1. Low Power and Boost on steep grades
2. Smell of coolant and coolant looks discolored/contaminated.

At the start of the trip I had a dealer visit to replace #5 cracked nozzle injector and weak #4 injector. Same time they test drove and replaced sluggish EGR valve. They also reported EOT to ECT delta of 22 degrees (max spec) is 15

Here is what is wrong so far

1. Bad EGR Cooler - will replace. They stated they have a oil cooler kit to replace with it. I informed them of a 2009 Ford Bulletin that states oil cooler to be replaced when a bad EGR cooler is found. I know the clogging issue with the oil cooler leads to the EGR failure at times

2. HG are borderline and they will be replacing

3. EGR valve is agian sticking (they will replace no charge since it was just installed a week ago)

Here is what I want to do

1. Require Ford to replace oil cooler for sure. It seems obvious both need to be done and Ford states it. Anyone have any official Ford statements on this. I'm looking

2. Install ARP Head Studs and use new OEM HG.

3. As soon as I get it home, install a coolant filter (before I clog the new oil cooler)

4. Push the dealer on a specific coolant flush process since the circuit has been contaminated with exhaust/oil. Any recommendations

5. What is the chance of my oil circuit being contaminated with coolant if the HG leaked? Any advice?

6. I've asked them to carefully inspect the HPOP filter for any damage. They shyd away with me asking to install the Stainless mesh filter. They claimed Warranty Issue.

Please, anyone have any other advice while the patient is open and I can work with the dealer. I have the extended warranty so I'm mostly covered (not the ARP studs of course). Truck only has 44K miles and mostly used for weekend around town and towing to go duning (Oregon, NV, Arizona, Idaho)

Thanks,

Mark