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I'm sure there are more than a few bright ideas out there on this - bring 'em
Imagine truck parked at -40F for 4 days while at cabin, no way to plug it in. Autostart "sentinel" cold weather mode only good for 24 hours then terminates as a "feature" so you don't run out of fuel. Truck equipped with battery heater + insulated blanket, block heater, oil pan heater and transmission pan heater.
What tried and true systems have folks used to revive the truck to where it will start? My preference would be something portable (take it with so you have it when truck gets broken into) that doesn't require any electricity. Open to any clever solutions/procedures, even if they don't fit the preference listed above.
Related to this, what is the consensus on motor oil in these conditions? I'd think it'd make quite a bit of difference. I'm running blended Motorcraft 5w-20 in my 2009 F-350 V10, and looking to swap to 0w-20 Mobil 1 or Amsoil full synthetic.
That's a tough one. I'd worry about my battery being frozen. They do have Mr. Heaters on clearance at Lowes right now. Perhaps you can put one of those guys facing under the front of the truck and put it on high and tarp the truck. I'm betting it'd warm everything up. I've seen the airplane guys do things like this before. Those bush pilots are pretty inventive guys!
there is an outfit online that sales a heater that pulls a very small amount of diesel out of your truck and heats the motor that way. Can't remember or find the web addy, but when I do I'll post it. Also if i remember correctly it ran about 1500.00.
__________________ Eric 2000 F350 CC SWB SRW 7.3 no mods yet
Its Spring down here in Connecticut, and so I post these links for future reference.
By the way, pure Propane won't boil (vaporize at any decent rate) below −43.6 °F, so for you at -40 °F there might not be enough pressure (Inches WC) to jet a flame. Hopefully Alaska's propane is blended to raise its pressure.
Being I'm a diesel (I guess) my drain plug uses a copper washer as a gasket.
Technically those washers are one-time use, which gets expensive as they seem to only be available through the Ford dealership's parts department.
True you can re-anneal the copper for reuse, but that only goes so far before the hex of the bolt head has mushed through the washer.
Since my van has a four inch suspension lift to accommodate the 4x4 conversion, that drain valve is somewhat protected by the front axle.
Though, should something short come tumbling along then it could get whacked.
Now what are the chances of that?
Then again my brother suffered a punctured spin-on oil filter due to a tumbling chuck of 2x4 the fell off a truck.
I have a Corbin clamp that acts as a second lock to keep the ball valve closed. That advice came from the Fumoto.
Just because I have a vacuum line rubber cap over the hose nipple.
I went with the hose nipple version because I do my oil changes out in the weather and I hate it when the wind is blowing and the oil ropes-off and lands outside the drain pan.
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