Warning... long winded post ahead

Well, I found one of the pass side exhaust manifold studs broken on my '04 5.4L. So, I'm going to replace all the studs & nuts along with the manifolds and gaskets. I'll do this after the weather breaks so I don't risk crippling my truck in the middle of winter.

Anyway, I've searched through the forums and found a lot of info on this, but I have a few specific questions so I thought I'd start a new thread...

First, has anyone used the Dorman replacement manifolds? These can be had from Summit for $70/ea. Dorman also makes replacement studs. I also see that 1A-Auto (hey Tony!) has the stock manifolds for about the same price with free shipping.

Next, headers -- Does anyone with a 2V 5.4L have any good experience with any particular brand over another? It looks basically like a choice between Gibson and JBA. Are there any other brands I'm missing? If I can swing the $$ I might go with headers instead of stock manifolds.

Next, does anyone know the correct thread size for the part of the stud that threads into the head? I'm thinking about just buying some socket head cap screws from McMaster instead of putting studs/nuts in.

Next, If I end up with stock manifolds, I would like to coat them with some sort of high temp paint. Has anyone had any success with a particular brand?

POR-15 makes some that looks pretty good.... High Temperature Paints-POR-15 Inc.

Eastwood also sells a few types of this paint too.

Finally, are there any specific tools that would be good to have on-hand for this job? I've read about the right angle close quarters drill, left hand drill bits, stud extractor, Kroil, etc. Anything else that is a must-have?

I hope to get everything staged in advance so I can just do it one weekend when winter's on the way out.

I'll more than likely do the y-pipe mod while I have it all apart, so that should be cool.

Thanks in advance!

 

I'm afraid I probably can't answer many of the specific 'hands on' details of your question. I can tell you that the shop that replaced the manifolds (4 broken head studs) on my '97 Expedition 5.4l used the Dorman parts. They were very experienced with servicing the 5.4 and recommend the Dorman brand parts. They say they are less expensive but better than the OEM parts (they said if you set them side by side on a table, the Dorman looks and feels better/stronger). I've had no problems since.

 

That's good to know about the Dormans. Thanks for the info!

 

Ford makes a service kit with stainless hardware to replace what you have, also pick up the rubber flap kit that the diesel trucks of the same years had, it fills in the wheel well gaps around the shocks,helps keep things clean,Craig.

 

That's cool. I'll definitely have to look into those rubber flaps.

Thanks for the info 350z

So, are there any folks out there with a 2V 5.4L that put headers on?

 

I have done this job once on my '02. And I will be doing it again this spring. They snapped again after only a year of being replaced. And I replaced the studs with the "improved" Ford parts. I did not replace the manifold, I checked for straightness and couldnt find a warp.. don't know. I am in the same spot as you, either Dorman or headers.

The biggest tool that made the job possible for me was my MIG welder! I could not get the studs out. All of them broke coming off. Once the manifold was out of the way, I had to weld nuts onto what was remaining of the studs to get them out. I think the heat going into the stud helped immensely as well. One stud broke off just below the surface of the head. I ground a bolt to a point and welded it to the stud. It worked.

I also loosened the motor mount on the passenger side and jacked the motor up to give me more space to work from inside the fender well. Its a crap job.

PS. If you replace the manifold, I would seriously look at replacing the stock Ford Y-pipe. Look at it and you will see it is necked down severely. I honestly believe this restriction causes the manifolds too much heat. I will be replacing that part of the pipe this time.

 

replaced both manifolds on my wifes exp with doorman
very happy no complaints and the price cant say nothing bad about that
and i hope you wont have to extract to many studs
if you do may they be the most accessible ones

 

I did my 01 v-10 2 years ago, and haven't had any problems, but I used bolts, and Ford headers. I can't recall what size the bolts were, but I think they were 8MM. I do know the bolts that came with the headers were too short. I read an article in a magazine about the 5.4 that said they got huge HP gains at the wheels when putting headers and a catback system on.

 

Promise us whatever you do, you'll make a writeup just like you did for your ball joints?

 

I did the SPD y pipe , it didn't change the mpg but added power you can feel.

 

Just had this done to my 01 Ford F-250. 5 studs came out eventually after soaking for two days in kroil. The other three he just cut off and welded a new stud to them. 3 of the studs were rusted clean off when the job was started and the only 1 of the nuts was functional. Seems like there should be a better way to engineer this. My mechanic had to lift the engine as well. DC

 

mike i bet he does hes good like that

 

i put gibson headers on my 04, i dont think they were worth the money i didnt really feel anything different in power. the y-pipe i did feel it pulls harder through the gears now. I was told to reuse my factory stubs so i took all of mine out and put them back two years later and none are broke or loose. Just a question why is your motor so dirty, your exhaust looks like you mud hard and thwey look coated kinda like my mud truck.

 

you must be out of the rust belt (road salt)
after a year of winter driving they all end up like that

 

You can replace the manifold studs with brand new stainless Ford studs and they will still break break off. Both my dads and my 6.8l came with stainless studs from the factory and they were not amune from breaking. I'd put on a set of headers (JBA stainless) and done done if you plan on keeping the truck a while yet. The headers won't break studs/bolts from the expansion and contraction. Headers, SPD y-pipe and a good tune will help the truck perform better and have lower egts.