My 2001 escape recently decided to act up, it was running rough for a little while and then it died and would only run intermittently after that. I found the #3 coil was bad and the egr valve was broken. I replaced those and now when it decides to run it runs smooth but when you give it has it bogs down and dies and doesn't want to run again for a while. I also put on a new fuel filter and the fuel pump sounds like its running good. I know I'm missing something here but I can't seem to figure it out. Also there are no DTC's at all. Any help on figuring this out would be greatly appreciated. I really need this car to be back on the road again.

 

If it stumbles when you press on the throttle, you may want to check your MAF. If the MAF gets dirty, it will not signal the new increased flow of air to the computer, and the computer will not add extra fuel, and the engine will stutter and chug. You can disconnect the MAF as a test, and it will 'guess' some parameters to meter the fuel. It will improve if it is the MAF, generally. You could also test the fuel pressure, as the regulator 'pulses' the electric power to the pump so adjust fuel pressure. If it fiddles wrong, the pressure will possibly be too low to allow for good acceleration.
tom

 

Did all the MAF test and it acted the same, got it to run seamed to idle ok but went to accelerate and it stalled and died and wouldn't restart. Gonna go rent a fuel pressure tester this afternoon and see what that tells me. The regulator is built into the pump on these isn't it?

 

As I said:"You could also test the fuel pressure, as the regulator 'pulses' the electric power to the pump so adjust fuel pressure. If it fiddles wrong, the pressure will possibly be too low to allow for good acceleration."

There is a pressure sensor connected to the fuel line that signals the computer. The sensor is on the upper side of the engine, I think on the passenger side. The computer then does the regulating by diddling with the power to the pump motor. At least that is my understanding.
tom

 

Tested the fuel pressure and I have a solid 60 psi at the fuel rail while cranking, it doesn't flutter at all but the engine doesn't even try and start. Could the pulse damper on the fuel rail be causing any problems?

 

It could be the crankshaft position sensor. I would have thought it would throw a CEL light or OBD-II code. That would let the timing be off, as could a cam position sensor. Make sure the connections are tight.
If you have compression, you need fuel and spark. You can fake the fuel by squirting WD-40 into the intake manifold and the engine will fire off for a few seconds if it is lacking for fuel. You'd have to test the spark plugs by removing a COP and sticking a plug into the boot, and grounding the spark plug shell, crank, and watch for spark.
tom

 

Still no real progress, now it will start and idle (poorly) so I let it run for a while hoping a code would pop up but still nothing. The second you try to accelerate it starts to stall and then dies a couple seconds later. Then when I go to restart it, it will kinda bumble around before it runs on its own

 

Have you checked exaust for restriction ? You had a missfire , maybe you melted a cat. Also ck. intake for restriction at air box . I had a car towed in , it had sucked up a plastic bag and blocked the air filter ! No air no run . An engine has to pull in air and pump out air to burn the fuel . Just a thought .

 

I checked exhaust and it is coming out, doesn't mean the the cat isn't plugged though. I already have the intake taken apart so I know that's not the problem. I'll check the converter. Can't hurt

 

I've had a similar problem and discovered the hose that connects to the intake manifold at the rear of the engine colapsed - the rubber basically committed suicide and a hole developed in the colapsed portion to kind of allow air to pass through. This has now happened twice. I replaced the first one - this time I opened it up and inserted a pvc elbow, wrapped it in duct tape and it was been running very well. At the same time I pulled the PCV tube(s) and drained the gooey crap out of them. It's two tubes running from the rear and front of the engine and the meet at the air intake just before the throttle body. A while back I had to fashion two rubber gromets to replace the melted goo that was the original ports? that the PVC tube connected to the rear and front of the engine.

 

It turned out to be a clogged catalytic converter. Took it off and it looked like a grenade went off in there. Cleared it out put it back in and it runs like a top now. Thanks for the help

 

I have a 2001 Escape 3.0 4WD 159,000. Has a rattle in the engine and wont accelerate... Please Help...