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How do I pass a wire from inside the cab into the truck bed using the pass through - 2012 crew cab

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Old 04-30-2012, 01:19 PM
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How do I pass a wire from inside the cab into the truck bed using the pass through - 2012 crew cab

I want to pass a cigarette lighter extension cord from the under seat storage of my crew cab into the truck bed. How do I find, get access to, and open up the pass throughs that I understand are in the rear wall of the cabin and the front wall of the bed? I should mention the bed has the factory sprayed liner.
Thanks
There's way too much that I don't know about this truck, but I'm learning, thanks to you folks.
 

Last edited by RickBetterley; 04-30-2012 at 01:58 PM. Reason: clarity
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Old 04-30-2012, 01:54 PM
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I would love to know too. Will allow me to put in bed lights.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by kmonty2
I would love to know too. Will allow me to put in bed lights.
Then we shall both await guidance!
BTW, you inspired me to add the chrome version of your Super Duty emblems to the tail gate. I like them a lot (both mine and your yellow version).
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by RickBetterley
I want to pass a cigarette lighter extension cord from the under seat storage of my crew cab into the truck bed. How do I find, get access to, and open up the pass throughs that I understand are in the rear wall of the cabin and the front wall of the bed? I should mention the bed has the factory sprayed liner.
Thanks
There's way too much that I don't know about this truck, but I'm learning, thanks to you folks.
I had similar issue on my new 2012 SD truck. I decided to use tow wiring under bed because it has 25 amps fuse (See your driver manual) on it which is plenty for my use of cigarette socket for air tires, cooler, and so on. I added 2nd fuse 10 amp for the socket.

And I have bed LED light installed using Walmart product. I bought 6 LED strips and it looks great.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by nswilliams
I had similar issue on my new 2012 SD truck. I decided to use tow wiring under bed because it has 25 amps fuse (See your driver manual) on it which is plenty for my use of cigarette socket for air tires, cooler, and so on. I added 2nd fuse 10 amp for the socket.
Thank you, but, that circuit isn't always on, is it? I didn't mention why I need the access, but this is for a cooler, and I'd rather have it on unless I switch it off.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 03:12 PM
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Run the wire from the cab to the door sill, remove the sill cover and there are grommets in the floor of the sill. From there you can run under the cab and into the bed where ever you want to go. There are several access points in the bed (stake pockets, and I think the front of the bed has a grommet too.) then youre all set. To have an always hot wire you may need to run a dedicated wire from the battery. If it were me, I would run an always hot to the cab, put it on a switch, then run from the switch as I described to the bed.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by A/Ox4
Run the wire from the cab to the door sill, remove the sill cover and there are grommets in the floor of the sill. From there you can run under the cab and into the bed where ever you want to go. There are several access points in the bed (stake pockets, and I think the front of the bed has a grommet too.) then youre all set. To have an always hot wire you may need to run a dedicated wire from the battery. If it were me, I would run an always hot to the cab, put it on a switch, then run from the switch as I described to the bed.
Thank you, Trey. That sounds simple enough even for me.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:27 PM
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I would want to connect them to a up fitter switch inside the cab. But I don't think there is a grommet in the bed of the truck, just had a Line X installed today and it does not look like any grommets in there, but there maybe some type of access hole I could use.
I did remove the yellow off the back and added the chrome ones on, I like them both too.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:39 PM
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My bad there are 2 large grommets going into the bed, 1 on either side of the toward the bottom. That will make it easy to get the wires in there.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 05:50 PM
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If you decide to come off the battery, spend a couple of bucks and install an inline fuse.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 2004 Ford F-250 v-10
If you decide to come off the battery, spend a couple of bucks and install an inline fuse.
You got that right; last thing I need is a self induced fire.
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RickBetterley
You got that right; last thing I need is a self induced fire.
I should have realized I didn't need to post it, I absolutely love your tag thing about towing and stopping If only the other 90% of the world realized it, LOL
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 07:48 PM
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There is a grommet in the back of the cab but u need to pull seats to access it
 
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 2004 Ford F-250 v-10
I should have realized I didn't need to post it, I absolutely love your tag thing about towing and stopping If only the other 90% of the world realized it, LOL
Thanks for that; twice I have been saved by my F series trucks. In both cases I am sure a lesser vehicle wouldn't have.
My racing buddies are forever asking whether their SUV can haul some proposed trailer; I tell them to get a truck.
 
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:53 AM
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I guess I am not understanding why you even need to route this wire into the cab. Why not go from the battery, through a fuse, then along the frame rail to the bed?

Alternately, installing upfitter switches would allow you to switch the circuit, but the relays would still be under the hood.

If you want a switch controlling the circuit (and since this would be a fairly high amperage circuit) I would install a relay under the hood to switch the high amperage circuit, controlled with a switch in the cab, but utilize one of the blunt cut wires behind the master cylinder to pass the on/off signal through the firewall.
 


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