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Code 33...6 month old EGR...What gives?

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  #16  
Old 01-11-2010, 10:58 AM
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Ok. Here goes. 172, 173, 327, 328, 334. So.... Does this mean EGR still? Maybe 02 sensors? One or the other or both? Thanks!

172 (R,M)
Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control

173 (R,M)
Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was rich - Single, Right or Rear HO2S - Fuel control

327(O,R,M)
EGR feedback signal is/was low - EVR or PFE

328 (O,R,M)
EGR Valve Position (EVP) is/was low - EVR

334(O,R,M)
EVP sensor is/was high - EVR
 
  #17  
Old 01-11-2010, 12:07 PM
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i have an f250 and a ford contour. my contour decided to do the same thing your truck is doing about a month ago. first check your egr valve to see if its working. to do this attach a vacum pump to the egr valve in the engine stalls your egr isnt working and you need a new one. remember the egr valve is man made so you could of bought a faulty one. you could aslso spray starting fluid areound all the vacum lines and if the engine revs you have a leak .
 
  #18  
Old 01-11-2010, 07:04 PM
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the EGR valve opens with vacuum. the internal spring keeps it shut. an open EGR valve, even slightly so, will cause a rough idle to killing the engine. if you are getting a vacuum at idle to the EGR, i would suspect the EGR vacuum control solenoid may be going south on you. if you disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve and the EGR valve is good, then the idle should straighten back up, if the rough idle is from the EGR valve and not some other problem. if the idle straightens out and you reconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve and the rough idle returns, then your EGR vacuum control solenoid is bad. i am /have been going through these issues now myself and am finally seeing light at the end of the tunnel. it has been a learning experience that i won't soon forget for sure.
 
  #19  
Old 01-11-2010, 07:10 PM
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  #20  
Old 01-11-2010, 09:40 PM
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Ok ruwafl. That looks super helpful, but I think I'm going to have to read it about 5 more times to fully understand it! Basically, I have taken off the vacuum line to the EGR and it acts exactly the same to me, if it does change, its too slight for me to notice. SO basically you are telling me my EGR is bad...again. I do have vacuum coming from the EGR Solenoid at idle, but it's so very small I know if cant possibly open that spring loaded EGR valve. So...That means my EGR Valve I just replaced might be partially open at idle? I HATE KRAGENS AUTO PARTS CRAPPY STUFF!!! I have had to return so much crap on warranty, great lifetime warranties...but kinda pointless when you have to spend hours to uninstall parts just months after putting them in....multiple times...to get one that works or lasts. BTW that link was bad for me, but I do know what the EGR Solenoid/EVR looks like. Thanks for all the help so far!
 
  #21  
Old 01-11-2010, 10:02 PM
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you can always try cleaning the egr valve first and see if that helps. may buy you some more time before you have to spend money.
 
  #22  
Old 01-12-2010, 12:26 AM
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I'm assuming to clean it I would have to remove it. At that point I might as well return it as faulty under warranty. I will try and do a vacuum test on it. Then I will post back on here. One last question, last time I had an EGR issue, it did not flip out with these O2 Sensor codes...is there no possibility of the 02 sensors going out and causing these codes?
 
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