Recently as its gotten colder in Ohio (temps are in the 20/30's on avg) my 05 F250 has started to have some rough starts.. It'll start fine, but it runs rough like its sputtering. I usually let the truck idle for a few minutes now due to this issue to try and let it warm up a bit more. Last year I could start the truck and get moving with no issues. However, if I don't do this the truck will act like its a cylinder or two low and some times even letting it warm doesn't cure it. I just have to drive it a few hundred feet before it'll get back to a somewhat normal state. Also another symptom is a bit of black smoke (not a lot though) It only does this at startup.

When the truck is warm it runs like normal. I do also have tuner from Innovative diesel. When the truck is warm it has all the power like in the summer (can break the tires loose easily, fast acceleration, etc..).. Not just quite sure where to start to resolve the issue.. Over the summer my EGR went out, so I deleted it and put ARP studs in along with a new oil cooler as well..

I've read about injector stiction in the forums and also lately there has been many FICM related threads. My fuel mileage has gone down in the last 1.5yr or so I think so I'm kinda pointing to a FICM issue.. Or could it even be a bad glowplug or two??


Thoughts?

 

The FICM s a relatively easy test to do w/a multi-meter. (check the post for FICM) Are You getting any codes? Check it w/your SCT. Could be an injector, but this is only a guess at this point. Start w/FICM volts and work your way through. There is plenty of help here. Take care.

 

No codes the last time I checked and no CEL.. Will double check it today.

I am going to do the FICM test soon, it's 10 degrees out so it will have to wait a bit.. LOL..

 

Do you use SYNTHETIC oil? If not, I would recommend you use a 15W-40 synthetic oil. Black smoke usually indicates a sticking injector(s) that allows excessive fuel in the cylinder. White smoke is the normal amount of fuel just not completely burned.

I use 20W-50 Royal Purple year around. Today in MD it was 17° when I started my X. It ran rough for about 5 seconds with some white smoke which is normal for cold starts then smooths right out.

Hope this helps!

DSMMH

 

Black smoke? Leaking oil past the rings?

 

Just picked up some Mobile 1 5w-40 Synthetic and changed it.. Hopefully that will help it. I was running the summer Rotella T 15w-40 (yes yes, no ridicule plz).. I ran this same weight last year with no issues so not sure if it's really that or something else..

It's definitely unburned diesel fuel that I'm seeing/smelling and am not losing any oil.


For the FICM test procedure, I assume it has to be cold to do this. From what I've read the capacitor soldering can pull away from the PCB. Testing it warm wouldn't cause this issue?

By the way.. It's damn cold, 10 degrees with heavy wind.. That is not fun to change the oil in!! haha


Thanks

 

Can't tell by your signature (it helps if you fill this out when asking for help, then others can make a better prognosis on your stated symptoms) If you are still under warranty, then take it to the dealer...sounds like it could be an emmissions related issue (6years or 100,000 miles) and the beauty is if its emmissons zero $ deductible. If not under warranty, then go to the dealer anyway, pay $95 for a diagnostics and calibration update...sounds like the new TSB 9-24-03 flash is working to solve most cold start problems.

BTW ...Smoke colors:

Black smoke = Incomplete combustion due to lack of air or fault in injection system.

White smoke = Cold engine starts (condensation), inoperative glow plugs, low engine compression, incorrect injector spray pattern, or coolant leak into cylinder combustion chamber.

Gray or Blue smoke = Oil consumption caused by worn piston rings, scored cylinder walls or defective valve seals. Can also be caused by defective injectors.

 

Injector "stiction" is caused by burnt (coking) dino oil adhering to the oil side of the injector. When this happens the clearances between the oil side moving parts become less and you get injector "stiction". Similar issues with the turbo vanes and compressor/turbine bearing leading to turbo failure.

Synthetic oil will not coke, therefore, no stiction issues in injectors or turbo.

When you see the improvement after the change to synthetic oil, I would also add 1.5 cans of SEAFOAM to your oil and run until the next oil change. This should help to clean some of the dino residue from the injectors and over time should get a lot better. I have had extremely good results with Seafoam in both diesel and gas motors especially marine engines and farm equipment.

Hope this helps!

DSMMH

 

Well unfortunately the oil change didn't resolve it, unless I need more time than just one day for it to clear up (doubtful).. Am going to look into the FICM more to rule it out.

Bummer

 

Where do you get seafoam?

 

Using this will destroy your injectors and HPOP....

 

I certainly would like to hear the story and the facts that will back up your claim.

I have used Seafoam in the 22 diesel engines (turcks and farm tractors) I have owned over the years including my 6.0L. I put 1.5 cans in at every oil change and a can in every other tank of fuel. Have had no problems with my 6.0L or any of the other engines.

Maybe since I use it, I have not had the turbo and injector failures others have experienced. I have 85,000 miles of proof.

Advance Auto stocks it and can't keep it on the shelf. They recently had a price increase from around $6 a can to almost $9 a can and still can't keep it on the shelf. Guess there are alot of dissatified customers out there.

DSMMH

 

Let's start with the MSDS on it.


http://www.seafoamsales.com/consumer...ne/view-2.html


It is 25 to 35% Naptha

The rest is "Pale Oil" and "IPA"


You are feeding this into a High Pressure Oil Injection System that relies on diesel for lubrication and injector operation.


The 6.0 will have 25% of the oil left in motor after a change.


So in order for you to rid the motor of this stuff, it take several changes, or a way of purging oil from the oil cooler and HPOP system.


Otherwise, you leave it in the engine, contrary to Seafoam's recommendations.


Under such circumstances, Seafoam can claim that you did not use the material "as directed" and they are free of liability for saying it is safe to use on a diesel.

Seafoam makes no recommendations as to this stuff being complaint with API CI or CJ... the diet of oil that the motor requires.


To the best of my knowledge, Naptha is not an acceptable ingredient to stay in the engine oil of a modern diesel that requires CI or CJ oil.


As it is, the 6.0 shears oil and is hard on all lubricants.


You want to take a chance... go ahead.


Oh... tell me how do you intend to purge Seafoam out of the 6.0 after you fed it in when used in accordance with Seafoam manufacturer's instructions.


I would like to know.




I'd like to know.

 

The MSDS only states the Seafoam chemical makeup for HAZMAT purposes only. It does NOT state any performance gain or loss test results for the product.

The first thing you need to do is read the directions on the product container. There is no mention of when to add Seafoam to motor oil. Sixteen oz. treats 10 quarts of oil. So I add 24 oz when I change my oil.

I have no intent or see any need to purge the remaining Seafoam.

The 6.0 holds 448 oz. (14 quarts) of oil. So I put 24 oz. of Seafoam in 448 oz. of motor oil. Seafoam is .05% of the total volume of oil in the motor. Since I use synthetic oil, I change my oil and filter every 7,500 miles. Now after I drain it out and I have 56 oz. (3.5 quarts) or 25% of the oil left in the motor with 3 oz. of diluted Seafoam. Naptha evaporates fairly quickly and I would say probably after the motor is started and warms up after the oil change, the naptha has evaporated given the motor oil is about 200°F to 250°F and naptha has a 55°F flash point. The cleaning effects of the naptha are fairly instantaneous. I'm not running a 25% concentration of naptha the whole 7,500 miles as implied. So at oil change time I'm left with the pale oil. The carbon deposits and the acids generated by combustion do far more "damage" during the 7,500 miles to the 6.0L then Seafoam would ever do.

Seafoam recommends on the product container to use 50% Seafoam and 50% fuel to clean injectors in an injector cleaning machine. They also recommend to pour Seafoam directly into the fuel filter. I have done this when I change the secondary fuel filter with no adverse effects.

I believe in the results that I have seen with Seafoam over the years. I have used it in farm equipment, high performance boats, the X, my Zo6, jetski, ATV, chainsaws, etc. with excellent results and never a problem.

To each his own but I will continue to use Seafoam and ignore the anti Seafoam claims that are not fact based. I would have thought that as bad as this product is portrayed for use in diesel engines and as much as I have used Seafoam, that I would have had a failure by now. Still waiting!


DSMMH

 

Had identical problem with my 05 F350 SD 6.0. Took it to my dealer last week and they reflashed it. It now runs great and the temps here have been in the high teens and low 20's for the last week.

Randy