I just put a 78 dana 44 in my 96 F 150 and was trying to figure out what centerlink will work with the 78 dana44 knuckles. I only have 4inches of lift and will clear the crossmember better if I have the centerlink with the kinks in it. Maybe one off a f-450??

 

the steerins system for the solid axle is far different from that of the olf IFS setup

the tie rod connects the knuckles then the drag link connects the tie rod with the pitman arm

you can use the stock tie rod like i did and then either build a drag link or use one from a 96 f350 4x4

 

I did use a drag link for a 96 f-350 and the tie rod that connects the knuckles off the 78. It is close to interfering with the crossmember as I only have 4 inches of lift. The style of the 96 is what I need but the tie rod ends are smaller where they go through the knuckle. I need one that has the same size tapered shafts on the tie rod ends as the 78. I thought maybe a F-450 might have bigger tapers. Just a shot out there though.

 

I'm not sure why your having an issue, 78/79 T-type steering tie rod and a 90's 4wd F350 drag link should do the trick. Worked good for me.

 

This was my set up. Just make sure you get the track bar length and angle better.

 

Here is a pic of the tapers on the tie rod ends I need the bigger around one on a centerlink like a 96 F-350 with the kinks for the crossmember. Any one know if they made one like that? More pics on my album.

 

ive never heard of the x-member having clearance issues with the steering before?

you should post up some pics of your SAS so we can see better what you mean

i only have 4" lift and i have plenty of room with my steering, my trac bar even has room to play

 

The springs were off the 78 and the final product is the same height as my 96 4 inch lift. I think the 78 springs were 2 or 3 inch lift springs but not sure. They were a light blue color and I painted them International Red. The pics show I don't paint well.

 

i honestly dont see a any problem with that...clearance looks good

heres mine for comparison

 

Your steering looks fine unless I cant see what your getting at.

How much up travel does your axle have before it make's contact with your engine crossmember? It looks like that could be a problem.

BTW 9.Ford.5 has 4 inch lift springs, I think you could use a set.

 

he has 4" lift too...

i too have low clearance between the diff and the x-member but as far as i know they haent made contact...yet...last time i tried flexing the springs were new so they had no flex to them, i tried a little bit just recently and it flexed WAY better so i might have issues now haha

 

Your trac-bar looks a little on the short side. As far as the question. I'm understanding that your Balljoint taper is smaller than the hole in your knuckles? Where did the D44 come from? Is it possible that they were reamed for larger joints?

 

794x4 The larger looking taper is off a 78 F150 the smaller is a 96 F-350. Go figure. You know how the 96 style has the two kinks to clear the crossmember on the 350s? Thats what I need with the 78 style larger tapers. Then I wouldn't have any clearance problems at all. Now when I turn real hard I might have trouble when I hit a bump. There is about 3 inches before the centerlink would hit with the wheels turned hard. I think the pics of the other 4 inch lifts here must be more like six or eight with 4 or six inch 78 era springs and the later coil buckets upping it a couple of inches.

I have looked at all the differant years except the 80 to 84 (I think). The others are the smaller size taper. I have not looked at any of the F-450s yet.

I drove the truck up and down the Interstate and it seems to drive fine. The side streets are still covered in ice and snow but it seems to act pretty good. I don't know about cross country yet but I never drive all that fast in the field any way.

I have considered getting the 4 inch or six inch 78 style springs I think I would still have good castor or could get the off degree c-bushings. The only thing I worry bout is the length of the front drive shaft.

 

Where is the smaller balljoint going? Does it connect the drag link to the centerlink or drag link to pitman arm? My guess is that at some point and time they have been opened up for a larger joint considering a known combo isn't working. Check a chevy one ton balljoint and see if that fits. That's a popular joint to upgrabe to. If that is no go then you will have to measure the degree of taper in there and google that taper to see what it is. There is a press in sleeve to repair worn out holes. just drill the hole to the specified thickness and press the sleeve on. You could get one that matches the taper on your troublesome balljoint to fix the problem

 

9.ford.5- Is your cotterpin on your draglink/pitman connection still like that? I just noticed how it's sitting. Not engaging the keyways in the castle nut