6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

how much should an EGR delete cost?

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  #16  
Old 01-01-2010, 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by da-bees
First things first. your milage is ok ,when was it put in service. If it has not been in service for 5 years,you might rethink doing a delete before warranty expires.
Its an '01 MY...I guess it could have an ESP?
 
  #17  
Old 01-01-2010, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by da-bees
First things first. your milage is ok ,when was it put in service. If it has not been in service for 5 years,you might rethink doing a delete before warranty expires.
truck was bought september 04, no more warranty
 
  #18  
Old 01-01-2010, 08:12 PM
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If it is working good, and you have no problems.... why bother doing all this?
 
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Old 01-01-2010, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
If it is working good, and you have no problems.... why bother doing all this?
The EGR doesn't have a good reputation, if the cooler goes bad, there goes the head gaskets etc. Its a preventative method.
 
  #20  
Old 01-01-2010, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by lakewood
The EGR doesn't have a good reputation, if the cooler goes bad, there goes the head gaskets etc. Its a preventative method.

I am not sure how the EGR being stuck / dirty have anything to do with head gaskets.

In any case, the stealth delete plate fixes the problem with a minimum of fuss... unless your cooler is leaking right now.
 
  #21  
Old 01-01-2010, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lakewood
The EGR doesn't have a good reputation, if the cooler goes bad, there goes the head gaskets etc. Its a preventative method.
Yea you are correct on all accounts. Noone wants to skirt the law but the 6L EGR calls for drastic measures,so delete before it cracks is better than HGs if it leaks. Additional to the things you are already double checking with your mechanic,ask what he plans to do if you get C.E.L. or code.
 
  #22  
Old 01-02-2010, 12:14 AM
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Originally Posted by gearloose1
I am not sure how the EGR being stuck / dirty have anything to do with head gaskets.

In any case, the stealth delete plate fixes the problem with a minimum of fuss... unless your cooler is leaking right now.
Its not the valve, its the cooler failing that causes the major problems.
 
  #23  
Old 01-02-2010, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by MoyockPowerstroke
By full delete, do you mean welding the intake? Like FCDP? You can buy a full delete (Kit) from ebay sellers at reduced cost...some as low as $200. I'd buy the (Kit), pull the intake hot-wash it, rebuild the oil cooler, new intake gaskets and turbo seal/gaskets and do both the CCV filter (keep dirty air out of freshly cleaned intake and turbo) and coolant bypass (keep that freshly rebuilt oil cooler from getting clogged up). Is your mechanic going to include replacing your up-pipe with a solid one? Gets rid of the restrictive scoop.
The kit he is going with does not involve welding of the intake, but does incorporate removing the EGR valve and putting a plate over the opening on the top, opening on the bottom is also covered. The cooler is also removed and a stainless tube put in its place for coolant flow.
 
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Old 01-02-2010, 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by rollerstud98
The kit he is going with does not involve welding of the intake, but does incorporate removing the EGR valve and putting a plate over the opening on the top, opening on the bottom is also covered. The cooler is also removed and a stainless tube put in its place for coolant flow.
Sounds good...although if it were me I would address the faulty uppipe...by deisgn it works for the egr cooler, but when the cooler comes out it has no where to brace up to. Most just block it off, but without bracing vibration will cause the bellows to break down and crack causing a severe exhaust leak. Also this uppipe has a very restrictive scoop that should either be removed by cutting it out or just simply replacing the entire uppipe with a solid uppipe (problem solved). Also without the restrictrive scoop there will be better flow of exhaust gasses to turbo where they will finally be put to some use as opposed to coking up your intake. You've probably already seen this but if not...I would highly suggest overhauling your oil cooler and adding the coolant filter. Diesel Technician Society
 
  #25  
Old 01-02-2010, 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by MoyockPowerstroke
Sounds good...although if it were me I would address the faulty uppipe...by deisgn it works for the egr cooler, but when the cooler comes out it has no where to brace up to. Most just block it off, but without bracing vibration will cause the bellows to break down and crack causing a severe exhaust leak. Also this uppipe has a very restrictive scoop that should either be removed by cutting it out or just simply replacing the entire uppipe with a solid uppipe (problem solved). Also without the restrictrive scoop there will be better flow of exhaust gasses to turbo where they will finally be put to some use as opposed to coking up your intake. You've probably already seen this but if not...I would highly suggest overhauling your oil cooler and adding the coolant filter. Diesel Technician Society

Most kits come with a new up pipe. I have the oil cooler rebuild sitting in my shop waiting to get done, as well as the egr delete, just need the reason to pull the turbo off first
 
  #26  
Old 01-02-2010, 01:56 AM
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I can't wait to go with a full EGR delete kit when my warranty expires in July. But when I see a $1500 price tag, it makes me think that I will test the EGR Cooler for leaks, and if none are found I will just do a sneaky pipe replacement and then retune the truck with IDP tunes to compensate for the missing EGR system. I think this should be cheaper, but if you're going to go through the oil cooler and turbo and CCV while you're in there, I guess it should be worth it in the long run.
 
  #27  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:22 AM
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Is there an EGR Cooler / EGR delete Kit that on the outside looks exactly like the factory part, but on the inside is gutted and have the new delete pipe running inside?

I am talking about something that would pass a visual inspection with flying colors.... and yet.. coolant does not circulate through the cooler's heat exchanger, only via the new delete pipe.
 
  #28  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:56 AM
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Holy crap, I have done several deletes (me providing the parts) for $375 with no scoop or $450 with scoop. Maybe I do them too cheap??? Replacing the oil cooler is there call but I strongly recomend it.
 
  #29  
Old 01-02-2010, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 06silvercrew
Holy crap, I have done several deletes (me providing the parts) for $375 with no scoop or $450 with scoop. Maybe I do them too cheap??? Replacing the oil cooler is there call but I strongly recomend it.
Man, I wish I lived closer to you!
 
  #30  
Old 01-02-2010, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by D8chumley
Man, I wish I lived closer to you!


I have done 4 for this price so far, lots of happy people
 


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