Your overhaul??
#1
Your overhaul??
When you did an overhaul on your 300...did you use a "kit" or did you pick out all the parts used. What was the end result either way performance wise and fuel mileage?? I am looking at an overhaul in the near future as the engine is getting weak and I am inquiring as to the best route to take......a packaged overhaul kit or individual parts I select.
#2
kit or individual parts
Still in process of getting the project done, so I can't comment on mpg's etc.
My original intention was just to clean up the motor and slap it in. It had only just over 100k on it and a fresh head.
So I ordered individual gaskets etc for a reseal and clean up. But the prev owner had hooked up all the emissions incorrectly and the resulting detonation etc made the shortblock far from being road ready. My parts guy let me return the individual gaskets etc and sold me a master overhaul kit. He did the machine work and I assembled.
My only goal is stock reliability so nothing fancy. Only substitution I Made was metal timing gears vice the new cheapy ones.
Theres a tip included in the metal gearset that suggests installing a dowl pin in the oil projection hole to quiet them down. I didn't have a suitable pin upon installation and skipped it but if you're planning a build get one.
My crank needed cleaned up so we had it turned 10 thou mains and rods.
But If you also need crank work. I'd suggest just buy a new crank. The master kit comes with a rear main seal surface sleeve thats a real pain in the butt to put on without the right tool. So if you need one too have the shop install it for you, Or in hindsight I wish I had gone with the new crank instead, wasn't much of a price difference after the machine work costs.
The master kit was good and fairly inexpensive. Though it did not have a throttle body gasket and only came with one side of the injector o'rings.
But it did have a new oil pump distributor drive shaft, which I thought was a nice touch. So now I can take my old one and rig up a prime tool before I fire her up for the first time.
Brigart
My original intention was just to clean up the motor and slap it in. It had only just over 100k on it and a fresh head.
So I ordered individual gaskets etc for a reseal and clean up. But the prev owner had hooked up all the emissions incorrectly and the resulting detonation etc made the shortblock far from being road ready. My parts guy let me return the individual gaskets etc and sold me a master overhaul kit. He did the machine work and I assembled.
My only goal is stock reliability so nothing fancy. Only substitution I Made was metal timing gears vice the new cheapy ones.
Theres a tip included in the metal gearset that suggests installing a dowl pin in the oil projection hole to quiet them down. I didn't have a suitable pin upon installation and skipped it but if you're planning a build get one.
My crank needed cleaned up so we had it turned 10 thou mains and rods.
But If you also need crank work. I'd suggest just buy a new crank. The master kit comes with a rear main seal surface sleeve thats a real pain in the butt to put on without the right tool. So if you need one too have the shop install it for you, Or in hindsight I wish I had gone with the new crank instead, wasn't much of a price difference after the machine work costs.
The master kit was good and fairly inexpensive. Though it did not have a throttle body gasket and only came with one side of the injector o'rings.
But it did have a new oil pump distributor drive shaft, which I thought was a nice touch. So now I can take my old one and rig up a prime tool before I fire her up for the first time.
Brigart
#4
couple more things
Oh and get the upgraded piston ring kit if you do the master kit. the cast rings I selected on my kit being cheap. were cheap.
Master kit is better I think because it gives you all the little things you might overlook otherwise. New distributor O'ring etc etc
And I had reached more then half the cost of the master kit by the time i had purchased a gasket kit and a few by the ways before I exchanged them back for the full kit.
I also picked up a bottle of zinc break in oil. Won't have a Cat converter in my project so the engine builder highly recommended it for breaking in the cam.
Brigart
Master kit is better I think because it gives you all the little things you might overlook otherwise. New distributor O'ring etc etc
And I had reached more then half the cost of the master kit by the time i had purchased a gasket kit and a few by the ways before I exchanged them back for the full kit.
I also picked up a bottle of zinc break in oil. Won't have a Cat converter in my project so the engine builder highly recommended it for breaking in the cam.
Brigart
#6
A kit is the way to go. I went through PAW but bought moly rings seperately.
My engine is a carb engine so I was able to p&p the head. Just by doing that you will notice a major difference in performance. Add a performance intake, 4v carb, and performance exhaust and you've created a much more powerful engine.
My engine is a carb engine so I was able to p&p the head. Just by doing that you will notice a major difference in performance. Add a performance intake, 4v carb, and performance exhaust and you've created a much more powerful engine.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
PAW=parts automotive warehouse . com. Summit Racing also makes kits for that engine, sells cams, pistons too.
No, you can not port an EFI head. That is asking for trouble. However, some companies do make mild cams for EFI engines. I have also heard of guys installing throttle bodies off of larger engines.
Research is the key.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Gertie-The '49 F2
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
10-25-2015 10:29 PM
angelrdz
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
10-20-2015 08:22 PM
sleep_deprived129
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
6
11-13-2008 11:04 PM
peanut2001
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
12-30-2005 08:54 AM