Manual Transmission Fluid Leak, How to Replace Gasket betw Trans & Transfer Case
I changed the fluid in my 1994 2.3L, MANUAL, 5-speed OD transmission. Either by coincidence, or because of putting new fluid in, a leak began between transmission & transfer case. I can even see that it's deteriorated (can't see gasket between the two metal surfaces), at several places. So it leaks down and I refill as needed (every few weeks). It's run fine for several months this way, but I'm getting tired of it and want to prevent bigger, future problems, and stop dripping fluid everywhere.
In colder weather, it's sometimes hard to get into gear when first starting car, and slightly loud when car is started. Both symptoms appear to be consistent with low fluid levels. Questions:
What's the best solution here? Can I just separate the two transfer case surfaces and use a proper gasket/sealant compound? I'm assuming this is going to be VERY HEAVY once I loosen bolts. Are both sides otherwise supported or when I loosen is the going to be a bigger problem for me to manage?
If I get an actual gasket designed to fit, I'd either have to cut top of gasket (to get around driveshaft) or disasseble shaft (which I'm definitely not going to do).
I have a '94 Ford Manual and it has a diagram of the Ranger transmission/transfer case connection. The diagram does indeed show a gasket (part# 7086) between the TC and the transmission extension housing. The gasket in fact is referenced as an "Extension Housing Gasket."
From what I can tell, the most straight-forward way of properly installing a new gasket is to disconnect the transfer case from the extension housing and slide the transfer case off the tranny output drive shaft just enough to provide the room needed to slip the new gasket in between the two units. In other words, you don't need to remove the TC completely, just move it a little. Toward that end, check out:
«Group 07: TRANSMISSION»
«Section 07-07C: Transfer Case, E-4WD»
«REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION»
Transfer Case - Removal
NOTE: Drain transfer case only if transfer case disassembly is required.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
2. Put a drain pan under the transfer case. Remove the drain plug and drain the fluid from the transfer case. Dispose of fluid properly.
CAUTION: Do not pull directly on the wires or pull outwardly on the locking tabs.
3. Disconnect the transfer case harness connector. Squeeze the locking tabs and pull the connector from the socket.
4. Remove the front driveshaft. Refer to «Section 05-01».
5. Remove the rear driveshaft. Refer to «Section 05-01».
CAUTION: The three-way catalytic converter (5E212) is located beside the transfer case. Be careful when working around the three-way catalytic converter because of the high temperatures generated by the three-way catalytic converter.
6. Remove the transfer case strut which is connected to the engine block and transfer case.
7. Support the transfer case with a suitable transmission jack such as Rotunda Number 077-00019 or equivalent.
8. Remove the fasteners that hold the transfer case to the extension housing (7A039) of the transmission.
9. Slide the transfer case off the output drive shaft of the transmission. Remove the transfer case from the vehicle. Remove the extension housing gasket (7086) between the transfer case and the extension housing of the transmission and clean gasket surfaces.
1. Put a new extension housing gasket on the front of the transfer case where the transfer case is mounted. If necessary, put a small amount of grease on the extension housing gasket to hold the extension housing gasket in position during installation.
2. Use the transmission jack to raise the transfer case in the vehicle. Align the splines on the output shaft of the transmission with the splines in the input shaft (7017) of the transfer case. Slide the transfer case on the output shaft. Make sure the dowels in the transfer case and the extension housing are aligned. Install the fasteners that hold the extension housing to the transfer case. Tighten the fasteners to 34-46 N-m (25-34 ft-lb) in the sequence shown below.
3. Remove the transmission jack from the transfer case.
4. Install the rear driveshaft. Refer to «Section 05-01». Tighten bolts at circular flange to 83-118 N-m (61-87 ft-lb).
5. Clean the splines of the front output shaft. Apply 5-8 grams (.18-.28 ounces) of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or -K (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent to the splines.
6. Install front driveshaft. Refer to «Section 05-01». Tighten bolts at front axle flange to 30-40 N-m (22-30 ft-lb).
7. Connect the electrical connectors to the rear of the transfer case. Make sure the tabs on the connectors are in the locked position.
8. Install and tighten the drain plug to 14-27 N-m (10-20 ft-lb). Clean the filler plug on the side of the transfer case. Remove the filler plug. The fluid level should be 6.35mm (1/4 inch) below the bottom of the filler plug hole.
NOTE: The vehicle MUST BE LEVEL when checking or adding any fluid to the transfer case.
9. Add enough fluid through the filler plug hole to bring the level 1/4 inch below the bottom of the filler plug hole. Use Motorcraft MERCON® Multi-Purpose Automatic Transmission Fluid XT-2-QDX or DDX or equivalent. Install the fill plug and tighten to 14-27 N-m (10-20 ft-lb).
10. Install the transfer case strut back in the vehicle. Tighten the bolt at the engine block end of the strut to 60-80 N-m (44-59 ft-lb) and the nut at the transfer case end to 50-68 N-m (37-50 ft-lb).
I have a '99 with a 5-sp, and when I changed my clutch I removed the transfer case to lighten the transmission since I was doing it myself. I got a new gasket from the dealer, and put it in place with some gasket adhesive and then reinstalled the transfer case. It was fairly easy and I have not noticed any leaks since doing it.
i think your real problem is much more serious, yes there is a gasket between the trans & transfer case. but that cavity isnt supposed to have fluid in it, there is even a notch at the very bottom for any fluid thats there to drain out. you most likely have a bad output shaft seal on the trans. if the trans level was good but fluid was leaking from this spot, you could have a bad input shaft seal on the transfer case. when i changed out my transmission a few years back, my most difficult problem was getting the T-case to un-dock from the trans. one of the steel alignment dowls was corroded to the case and it didnt want to seperate. check your shift-rail plugs and trans output shaft seal while you have it apart. you should see that drainage notch im talking about when you have things apart also. it will be easier to pull both driveshafts out of the way. while a little awkward, the T-case isnt too heavy, i had my truck up on ramps with the front end and the rear frame supported with blocks so the truck was level. it will help some to drain the oil from the T-case, it doesnt hold alot, but thats weight you wont have to deal with while your wrestleing with it. i beleive i had the mtor supported with blocks at the oil pan and transmission, pulled the crossmember, you'll either have a wireing harness or linkage for the transfercase to unhook and the speedo cable from the rear of the T-case. once you get it all back together dont forget to refill what youve drained. i wish there was a way to fill that extention cavity with fluid. then it wouldnt matter at all if you had a failed trans output shaft seal or a failed T-case input shaft seal. both the trans and T-case take the same fluid anyhow. good luck with your project, and let us know how it goes.
Thanks to all of you for the responses. I will check them all out. One more question. My car is a 2WD version. Does this affect transfer case & this situation at all? Pardon my lack of knowledge here. A couple of the responses indicate how to change the gasket, which sound perfect, but 'racsan' indicates the gasket between transfer case and transmission is not even sealing fluid between those parts--if I am reading it right. If that's true, doesn't that mean there's a different problem? If someone can comment on that issue it would be great.
FYI... i went to Autozone before anyone responded and the guy there told me there is no gasket between those surfaces--even though I clearly see remnants of one--or at least some type of RTV around it. Now I have the actual Ford PN thanks to "Rockledge" so that's something concrete. I'll dig further in my Haynes manual.
Also, I'll check out the shift rail plugs and look for other signs as well, and get back to you. It may take me a couple of days as my car has been garaged now for over a month as I've replaced H20 pump, thermostat, timing belt, plug wires, plugs, etc. My wife may divorce me if I don't give her use of the garage this week, now that it's getting cold--and as since I've promised it over and over! Stay tuned and thanks again!
The main drips ends at bottom side, exactly at mating between the "tailshaft housing" and the rest of transmission, "R031Kona". And it seems those shift rail plugs are exactly above that. So it seems very likely they are leaking down and gravity pulls the drip to that point--especially if there is no fluid shared between the tailshaft housing and transmission. I wiped the whole area clean & bought a gallon of Mercon fluid this morning. Hoping to add fluid and more carefully watch if leak is coming from above. I should know in a few days.....
Still need to read the Haynes manual to get a better understanding of this, and maybe tips on how to check.