<table class="tablebg" cellspacing="1" width="100%"><tbody> <tr class="row1"> <td valign="top"> <table cellspacing="5" width="100%"> <tbody><tr> <td> 02 V6 Clutch install problems.
Originally had problems getting the truck to go into gear. Replaced the clutch PB TOB and slave cylinder.

I had a real hard time stabbing this trans. I finally got it in by zip tying the master cylinder spring to compress it as much as possible. That allowed me to get the bell housing to within an 8th of an inch of the block. At that point the throughout bearing was pressed against the pressure plate, so I used the bell housing side bolts to pull it in the rest of the way. I checked repeatedly and often the sides top and bottom of the housing to ensure it wasn't in a bind and was seating evenly. Everything seemed OK. The bolts seemed to get easier to tighten the closer the housing got to the block. After that I removed the zip ties and put everything back together.

THE SHIFTER WON'T MOVE NOW. Engine on or off. It would before I stabbed the trans.
THE CLUTCH PEDAL ENGAGES BUT IT SEEMS VERY SOFT. I don't drive the truck so I am not sure how it should feel. I looked through the hole in the bell housing where the shift fork would go if it had one. The bearing engages the pressure plate and pushes against it. It moves maybe an 8th of an inch. SHOULD IT MOVE MORE.

Last note. After I was finished, I discovered in my Chilton's book that I needed to compress the pressure plate forks/clutch diaphragm fingers and adjust the clutch tension springs to.55 inches. Looking at the clutch now it looks like that is where they are. I'm not sure though. WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF THE CLUTCH TENSION SPRINGS and is this part or all of my problem as to why the trans wont shift now.

I realize this may be a compound problem
1 CLUTCH MASTER CYLINDER. Resistance to foot pressure seams low and only moves about
an 8th inch into the pressure plate.
2 CLUTCH TENSION SPRINGS. not properly adjusted before installation.
3 DAMAGED INPUT SHAFT. While stabbing the trans maybe damaged the transmission.
4 SOMETHING ELSE. I can't think of anything else that would be the problem,
so if you think its something I haven't listed please let me
know. I'm tired of this little project.
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While ive never done it on a F-150,the process should be fairly forward.I think you likely need to remove the tranny,and Clutch assy,and start over using the manual as a guide.
Im not trying to be a smart a++ here,but I suspect whatever the problem is,it isnt going to be able to get fixed unless the tranny is removed again,and the process started from scratch.Ive personally been there(in other situations)

 

I was hoping to fix the shift problem without doing this install all over again. I haven't received any suggestions from anyone else and that is what I planed to do when I thought of posting this problem. I'm out of time, so I am going to do what you suggest.
Thank you

Gary Huff

 

Where did you get the Clutch, pressure plate, T.Out bearing/slave cylinder,,,My son recently had a buddy do his F-150 clutch,,,went 224k or so,,,,I called around,,,ended up an Original Ford kit (LUK) was the best price,, self-adjusting with the slave cylinder,,,all about $ 380 plus tax,,His Buddy had it all back in order in a day or so,,,only real issue was some bolt on the shifter broke,,,shifter was sloppy,,but they fixed it a week later,,,,He says the truck shifts great Now,,,,before the new clutch,,,it was hard to get into gear,,,works slick now,,he says,,,oh yeah,,,01' F-150 4x4 5-speed.,,,230 some k now! Runs Great,,and everyday too!!

 

Its not much fun posting when what you post shows you may not be the brightest guy posting. I had the person that drives this truck come over and tell me if the clutch felt like it should. He said it did. Once I knew the clutch was working as it should, it just didn't make sense the trans wouldn't shift. I knew I hadn't messed anything up that would cause this thing to completely lock up. So it dawned on me. I moved the trans out of neutral and into some gear while stabbing the the thing. I hadn't moved it back to neutral before I reinstalled the shifter. Maybe that shifter will go into what seems is its correct slot and seat completely into the hole, yet be installed incorrectly. I took the shifter back out. Using a screwdriver I moved the gears easily. Problem solved.

I am leaving this post, not to embarrass myself, to help anyone else that has a similar problem know how to solve it. I'm no surtified mechanic, but I've done more than 1 or 2 clutch jobs and I never ran into so many problems with what should have been an easy job. POINT IS, WHEN INSTALLING THE SHIFTER ON THIS TRANSMISSION, MAKE SURE THE TRANSMISSION IS IN NEUTRAL BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE SHIFTER.

Thank you for your responses.
Gary Huff

 

Gary, Glad you found your problem...Didnt even think of the ultimate fix....Theres an old saying in the aviation industry....'Live and learn,or crash and burn"...Came close a few times

 

That rule goes for not only this vehicle, but for other ones as well. It's always a good idea to start the process in netral and finish it in neutral. You could create this problem without ever having replaced the clutch. It's a good idea to do a cam swap by first having set #1 at TDC on the compression stroke and not moving the crank until the new cam and chain are fixed in place. Sometimes repair manuals skip what would appear to be a basic step. I once did a Honda Accord water pump swap which sounded very simple in the manual. It turned out to be a bear because you couldn't get your hands in where you needed to get the fasteners in and out because of the lack of clearance. The manual forgot to mention in step 0 that the engine had to be removed and placed up on the work bench before removing the water pump.