Does anyone know of a source for a rebuild kit for the Trico vacuum wiper motor in a '50 F-1? I think the motor number is CSM 101-2. If not a complete rebuild kit, how about just the gaskets? One last question - what would you use to lubricate the paddle? I was thinking vasoline but I'm not sure it will last very long.

 

I redone a 47 and 48
both about 10 years ago
I used (SUPER LUBE) synthetic grease in a sqeeze tube
clean out the old grease and silicone glue the gaskets
they made thing good back 60 years ago

Joe

 

I checked on Ficken in Babylon NY. They used to sell kits. I see now on their website that they no longer sell kits and only will rebuild your wiper. They were a supplier of kits years ago. The kits included gaskets and a new paddle if I remember correctly.

 

Is that the same grease they sell as distributor cam lube? I think I have a tube of that somewhere.

 

Yeah. I had checked online and saw the same message. There's also someone in Washington state who rebuilds them for a less money but it still would be nice to get the parts and do it myself. I think I can clean up and reuse the paddle. I might see if I can cut the gaskets out of gasket paper.

 

Gaskets are easy to make out of gasket paper. Here's the way old time mechanics did it:
Materials needed: appropriate thickness gasket paper.
Tools needed: small ball peen hammer. The ball end should be just a little larger than the bolt holes.
Technique:
1. cut a piece of gasket paper ~ 1/2" larger than final gasket all around.
2. Lay paper over raised surface gasket needs to fit (NOT cover), and hold firmly. Tap GENTLY around inside of raised edge with flat face of ball peen held so the face contacts just the very corner of edge at a shallow angle. The gasket paper will almost magically cut cleanly.
3. Rub your finger over bolt hole locations to form a slight dimple in the paper locating the holes. Use the ball end to tap the paper straight down into the hole, cutting out the hole. If it cuts completely thru and into the hole, retrieve the punch divot by pushing it out or picking it out with a wire or pick if a blind hole.
4. Using the same technique as step 1., cut the outside shape of the gasket. If you were careful to keep everything aligned without distortion, you should be rewarded with a perfect fitting gasket in less time than it would have taken to find a pencil to trace one out.

Hint: gasket paper in different thicknesses can be purchased inexpensively at a GOOD parts store such as NAPA. Keep a supply on hand, you'll be glad you did one late night when you need to replace a cracked or leaky gasket, or one that only comes as part of an unneeded set.
Hint 2: do not use gasket sealer on gaskets where the fit also is part of the seal, such as the vacuum motor.
Hint 3: if you need to hold a dry gasket in place in an awkward location or one where it wants to fall out, Tie it in place to one side with a couple of dental floss ties placed thru bolt holes to the outside of the assembly. You can cut and remove the floss just before tightening or just leave it in place, it's thin enough to embed in the gasket without causing a leak.

 

I think it the same lube
auto store should have it
make sure you clean the clicker spring thing on the side
that pulls the paddle back and forth with vacuum
Joe

 

AXracer - thanks for the tips. I'll give it a try although I think it's going to be tough on something small like a wiper motor. The hardest part will be the gasket for the back cover over the reversing mechanism. Where it follows the arch around the top of the cover the original gasket is less than 1/8" wide.

 

Just go slow, use thin enough paper and use light taps, just enought to barely cut through. I've made plenty of carb gaskets using that method.
On the narrow areas, hold the paper in place with a finger just ahead of where you are cutting, and lead the hammer taps around. Sometimes it helps if you cut the bolt holes first and stick bolts in them to help hold the gasket in alignment.