Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #16  
Old 12-29-2009, 09:47 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,482
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Unplug the battery for a minute or two to clear the codes. 5.17v is close enough to 5v.

The EGR system not working is not going to give you the problems your experiencing. The only thing the EGR can cause is stalling at idle, and possibly some engine pinging on a hard pull. If you want to temp take it out of the picture, unplug the vacuum line to it and see what happens.(you will definitely get a code then).

If you are only getting a code 11 reading the codes with the engine off, I would look at fuel pressure and timing.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-30-2009, 10:42 PM
THE BLUE HEAP THE BLUE HEAP is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman Oaks California
Posts: 161
THE BLUE HEAP is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
Unplug the battery for a minute or two to clear the codes. 5.17v is close enough to 5v.

The EGR system not working is not going to give you the problems your experiencing. The only thing the EGR can cause is stalling at idle, and possibly some engine pinging on a hard pull. If you want to temp take it out of the picture, unplug the vacuum line to it and see what happens.(you will definitely get a code then).

If you are only getting a code 11 reading the codes with the engine off, I would look at fuel pressure and timing.
Hi,
I took your advice & disconected the battery pulled the computer connector & checked the pins on the connector side, I'm able to gently pull on the wires & the pins move just a tiny bit which I think is OK, also I was testing the EVP Sensor connector & when I pulled the connector one of the pins pulled right out with it so I replaced the new EVP Sensor again (Free) but when I connected everything back up again all I got was CODE 31 which is "PFE or EVP circuit has intermittently failed below minimum voltage of 0.24 volts."

It's funny cause I drove it today in the rain & it did not act up at all maybe I should move to a place that has more moisture in the air that could solve my problem....

By the way, do you know how I can test the EGR Vacuum Control solenoid & THE EGR Vent solenoid? They are mounted together on the passenger side fender near the battery

Thanks again
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-31-2009, 11:03 AM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,482
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Get the engine warmed up and then pull the vacuum line off the egr and hold your finger over the line while you rev the engine. You should feel vacuum on the egr line when you rev it, and then it should go away at idle. This is the egr vacuum solenoid letting vacuum through, and the other solenoid releasing the vacuum, so it would be working.

The computer activates the egr vacuum solenoid, and then it looks at the egr sensor to see how much it opened. It does this back and forth, and that how it modulates the amount of egr to the engine.
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 01-01-2010, 05:48 PM
Terpfords's Avatar
Terpfords Terpfords is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 480
Terpfords is starting off with a positive reputation.
I would like to be sure it's not the intake gaskets at this point. They have been the source of a lot of problems. You can get a efi gasket set pretty cheap and shouldn't take much time.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:42 AM
Eddiec1564 Eddiec1564 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Arcadia, Fla
Posts: 2,007
Eddiec1564 has a good reputation on FTE.Eddiec1564 has a good reputation on FTE.Eddiec1564 has a good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by THE BLUE HEAP View Post
Thanks for your quick response Franklin2...

I'm at my wits end, I CAN NOT find this annoying hessitation/surging problem I've been trying to diagnose I just changed the EVP Sensor today with no change nearly all of my sensors are new minus the knock sensor...

Vacuum is at a steady 16 hg., I can duplicate the problem if I idle it in park for 20 minutes with the high beams on, & the blower fan on high... My mechanic friend seems to think it's the main wire harness, becuase when the weather is cold it does'nt give me allot of problems, but at over $500.00 for the harness it's a big gamble....
We all seem to have the same problems TPS, EGR, O2 Sensor, Etc. but what ever I do DOES'NT solves the problem...

Any thoughts?

Thanks again

Sounds like a bad ground problem. Had amost same problem with my 84 after I put on EFI! These ECU's are picky with grounding and will cause all kinds of wierd problems. WIth high beams on and blower full speed, there's alot of current flowing and that can cause a ground point to heat up and then fun begins!
__________________
95 E350 460/E4od 4.10 The Bus
89 F250 2x4 300/AOD 3.55
84 F250 4x4 300/np435 3.55 The BLUE MULE
85 Plymouth Caravelle
73 Buick LeSabre
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 01-02-2010, 08:59 PM
Franklin2's Avatar
Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Staunton VA
Posts: 32,482
Franklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant futureFranklin2 has a brilliant future
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddiec1564 View Post
Sounds like a bad ground problem. Had amost same problem with my 84 after I put on EFI! These ECU's are picky with grounding and will cause all kinds of wierd problems. WIth high beams on and blower full speed, there's alot of current flowing and that can cause a ground point to heat up and then fun begins!
You know, since you brought that up, don't these trucks have a computer ground that comes off the neg battery cable? And it has a little connector in it that likes to corrode?
__________________
Dave F

1989 F250 XLT Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 01-02-2010, 09:36 PM
ri_truck_guy's Avatar
ri_truck_guy ri_truck_guy is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Suffolk, VA USA
Posts: 2,092
ri_truck_guy has a great reputation on FTE.ri_truck_guy has a great reputation on FTE.ri_truck_guy has a great reputation on FTE.ri_truck_guy has a great reputation on FTE.
bill.csisar
It actually has 5 grounds....black wire at pin 16 is the ignition ground, black wire off pin 20 is the case ground, black/light green wire off pin 40 is a power ground, orange wire off pin 49 is the O2 sensor ground, and the black/light green wire off pin 60 is a power ground. Any of them being bad will cause the problems you've described. I don't recall which setup you have, but if its an EFI 302, the orange wire off pin 49 is connected to a stud on the rear intake bolt on the drivers side....it's very easy to miss that wire being broken. It's really best to wire all 5 of those ground wires directly to the negative battery terminal.
__________________
Bill
14 Ram 3500 Mega Cab DRW CTD 4x4
12 F150 Fx4 Supercrew Ecoboost w/Max Tow (Sold)
86 F150 4x4 5.0 H.O. w/Mass Air Conversion (Sold)
10 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Ultra Limited
"Everybody has issues. Some people's are just more interesting"
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 01-02-2010, 10:16 PM
THE BLUE HEAP THE BLUE HEAP is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman Oaks California
Posts: 161
THE BLUE HEAP is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddiec1564 View Post
Sounds like a bad ground problem. Had amost same problem with my 84 after I put on EFI! These ECU's are picky with grounding and will cause all kinds of wierd problems. WIth high beams on and blower full speed, there's alot of current flowing and that can cause a ground point to heat up and then fun begins!
Thanks for your response,
I will check it out again, I've been suspecting that I have a grounding issues & are having a difficult time finding which of the ground wires to check...

Can you tell where exactly I should start?

I allready checked the ground wire going from the ECU to the body of the van, right next to the ECU...Tighten the battery ground cable going to the body in the engine compartment...

Today I disconected the wires that were going to my door switch that the alarm guys hacked into (DON'T EVER INSTALL AN ALARM ON CARS WITH ECMS)
I will keep looking
Thanks again
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 01-02-2010, 10:21 PM
THE BLUE HEAP THE BLUE HEAP is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman Oaks California
Posts: 161
THE BLUE HEAP is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terpfords View Post
I would like to be sure it's not the intake gaskets at this point. They have been the source of a lot of problems. You can get a efi gasket set pretty cheap and shouldn't take much time.
Thanks for you reply,
Even though I checked my vacuum & have a steady 17 Inches HG?
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 01-02-2010, 10:23 PM
THE BLUE HEAP THE BLUE HEAP is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman Oaks California
Posts: 161
THE BLUE HEAP is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
You know, since you brought that up, don't these trucks have a computer ground that comes off the neg battery cable? And it has a little connector in it that likes to corrode?
Thanks,
I will double check that!!!
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 01-02-2010, 10:29 PM
THE BLUE HEAP THE BLUE HEAP is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman Oaks California
Posts: 161
THE BLUE HEAP is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ri_truck_guy View Post
It actually has 5 grounds....black wire at pin 16 is the ignition ground, black wire off pin 20 is the case ground, black/light green wire off pin 40 is a power ground, orange wire off pin 49 is the O2 sensor ground, and the black/light green wire off pin 60 is a power ground. Any of them being bad will cause the problems you've described. I don't recall which setup you have, but if its an EFI 302, the orange wire off pin 49 is connected to a stud on the rear intake bolt on the drivers side....it's very easy to miss that wire being broken. It's really best to wire all 5 of those ground wires directly to the negative battery terminal.
YOU ARE THE MAN!!!

That is the info I just looking for...I will check & let you all know the results

Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 01-03-2010, 09:02 AM
Eddiec1564 Eddiec1564 is offline
Posting Guru
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Arcadia, Fla
Posts: 2,007
Eddiec1564 has a good reputation on FTE.Eddiec1564 has a good reputation on FTE.Eddiec1564 has a good reputation on FTE.
With my setup, I wound up rewiring all grounds directly to the battery GND, then a cable to the engine block and also to frame. That took care of my issues. Also I done this about 15 years ago without any Forums like this to help me out!
__________________
95 E350 460/E4od 4.10 The Bus
89 F250 2x4 300/AOD 3.55
84 F250 4x4 300/np435 3.55 The BLUE MULE
85 Plymouth Caravelle
73 Buick LeSabre
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 01-05-2010, 03:44 AM
THE BLUE HEAP THE BLUE HEAP is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman Oaks California
Posts: 161
THE BLUE HEAP is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Handegard View Post
I know how to test it, it's pretty easy, but you have to have a lab scope >shrug<

If you have a really fast switching multimeter, you could probably use that in it's place.

You hook the scope (or multi-meter) up to the output from the PIP. As the motor (or distributor, if bench tested) is turned, the PIP should output a square waveform, between 12 and 0 volts. A meter would be able to give you a rough idea, if you saw it change between 12 and 0 over and over again. Usually when a CKP (PIP here) dies, it stops sending a signal all-together, so the meter idea would be somewhat helpfull.

If your PIP is behind the harmonic balancer, make sure the teeth on the ring are all clean, and check that the sensor itself isn't too far away from the ring's teeth. I can find you the spec tomorow, if you need it, but it's pretty close.

Oh, and also if you have the one behind the balancer, check the wiring harness. They can come loose from the mounts, and rub on your belts or pulleys.

I'm really bad at "remote diagnosing" things, but I will gladly help you as much as I can It's far more fun to work on a Ford (even remotely) than it is to work on Audi's all day!
Handegard WHAT A PRO/GUY U R!!!

In all the komotion with my problematic HEAP I forgot to thank you for your input so, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU....

I'll try to do what you suggested & let you all know what I found.

I was able to pull old codes & one of them was CODE 74 "Brake On/Off switch not actuated during KOER test (user error)" & I just noticed today that when I engage the hand brake my brake idiot light does'nt come on...I don't know if it's part of my ongoing surging problem (you know sometimes you get small hints from the automobile that could be relevent to the problem) but I'll look into that too!!!

What a van.... now she wants me to do the "wiggle test"... Ford should change the letters inside the blue oval to say "PMS" although I do love the new Mustangs...

Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 02-12-2010, 03:26 PM
THE BLUE HEAP THE BLUE HEAP is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman Oaks California
Posts: 161
THE BLUE HEAP is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Terpfords View Post
I would like to be sure it's not the intake gaskets at this point. They have been the source of a lot of problems. You can get a efi gasket set pretty cheap and shouldn't take much time.
Hi there Terpford,
thanks for your reply,

I am reading my old posts trying to still find out where my problem is...I tested my vacuum & I have 15 in.
If have a leak than the gauge would go up & down, right?
Is there another way to test for intake leaks?
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 02-12-2010, 08:10 PM
Terpfords's Avatar
Terpfords Terpfords is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 480
Terpfords is starting off with a positive reputation.
I don't know if you have you have a leak or not or if this will fix you problem, it sounds like a good one. But it can be hard to know if you have a leak or not with some efi's because there are more gaskets and more vacuume lines than say a carbed motor. After all the time and effort to diagnose a nagging symptom its sometime takes less time and effort to change the gaskets in order to eliminate it as a problem. It also gets your head in there to see any other potential problems. Hope this helps.
Reply With Quote
Old 02-12-2010, 08:10 PM
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
2004, bad, egr, evp, f150, f250, ford, fuel, injector, position, sensor, signs, symptoms, truck, valve

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.5
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup