I started with a 460 and that's what it still is, this engine never had anything to do with a 429.

 

ok am I driving everyone nuts yet? lol ok how a 460 out of 1986 van? 80,000 miles. what kind of options would I have with this complete motor? no idea on casting numbers yet

 

i have never had to run any additives on my engine man i wish i was old enough to know what was goin on when my dad built it! lol i run regular unleaded. plus and supreme are gimmicks to me.. in my opinion anyways

 

I have a stock 1969 460 in my 77 F250 4X4 and run regular unleaded and never had a ping or knock problem with it.

 

do you know what the cr was on that? the 429 has 11:1

 

You do realize that the C9 and D0 heads have the same combustion chambers right? Oh and ported they are identical heads (some D0VE heads don't have the thermactor hump in the exhaust so they are the same anyway)_

 

ok so if I want to run the 429 pretty much stock with just maybe a cam change what would I need to do? if I keep at the 11:1 cr can I run it on just pump gas? I'm ok with that motor pretty stock as it was rated at 360hp and 479 tq.

 

So many variables makes that question so difficult to answer. Your are wanting to hear "sure it will be fine" but nobody can duplicate all of the variables to tell you for sure.

Timing curve, as well as altitude, fuel quality, weight of the vehicle, etc, will have affects on whether or not the vehicle will ping on pump gas or not.
You will be changing the cam, so dynamic compression will also change. Perhaps with some additional overlap, some compression will bleed off, so the knocks and pings may not be present.
Understand the basics of dynamic VS static compression to better grasp this concept.
Many articles and written data out there.
All in all, you will just have to run the combo and see. Chances are with that mild combo, and a conservative cam, you will be fine on pump gas, but trying to wager a guess, though fairly educated will be plenty difficult to do.

 

yeah I know there is no way to answer this question 100% Just kinda curious as to what results others have had. I really appreciate everybodies input on this whole fiasco. I just cant find what I exactly want I guess. I want 500 TQ for like $500 lol can somebody give me that motor? lol I am afraid thought if I lower the CR too mucg I will lose the power I want. the best pump gas we have here is 93 octane and I live in Illinois. will be in a 133" wheelbase F-250 4x4 with 35's

 

Yes I know they are the same other than the thermactor hump. I was saying my changes were the different head and I upped the compression. I was listing that as 2 different things that was different on my build vs that article. I was not saying the difference in head gave the the compression.

 

Ok blown just the use of a coma makes it one sentence infering that you bumped the compression BY using the C9 head and wanted it clear so someone else doesn't think that switching would increase their compression. Thats how urban myths like bolting on D0VE heads will magically increase your HP 150.

 

Please do yourself a favor and never use the D3VE heads!

Did I mention NEVER!!!

 

And would you like to tell us why we should follow that particular urban myth? Lets see they are a closed chamber head, that flows within a very few CFM of any other standard passenger car head such as the D0VE and C8VE heads. They have larger combustion chambers which allow you to use flat top pistons instead of huge dish pistons to get decent compression ratio for pump gas (especially important on strokers since it's hard enough to keep the comp ratio down) and thus have a more efficient burn (dish and dome pistons cause disturbances in the flame front reducing the efficiency and requiring more timing) They are more plentiful so if you mess one up it's easier to find a replacement, and people having gotten this mistaken idea that they are magically better. And thus don't cost a bunch of money for a wore out head needing work.

It's stuff like this that I have been fighting for years. I think someone else mentioned it before but the ONLY reason D0VE heads are so hot is the casting number spells a word... wooowooo.

 

Good point on the urban myth thing. I lot of what I learned about the 460 and did on my build was info I got from you about 4 years ago.
I found a smaller dish piston than carcraft used, decked the block (they didn't) and went .030 over (they didn't). That took me from their 8.8 to 1 up to my 10.0 to 1.

As soon as I saw the post a fews spots up about never using D3 heads I also knew you'd chime in on that one! Flow numbers don't lie but the one thing that gets me on the D3 is the exhaust port, it looks half closed off compared to a D0 and earlier head. I know the size of the port doesn't have everything to do with flow but it sure looks bad!
If you're doing a build and purchasing new pistons anyway then getting compression where you want it is easy with a D0 or a D3, just buy the correct piston. But if you are sticking with a stock lower end then just bolting on some D0's is an easy way to get power since they give compression on an engine that once had D3's, I think thats where most of their repuation came from. If you take a 460 from say 1975 and throw on some D0's I'm sure the gain will be quite noticable.

Monsterbaby, while you are here I had a theory I wanted to run past you. In 1972 the 429/460 has the worst head ever (in my opinion). The open chamber and its like 115cc if I remember right.
But if anyone is looking for some really cheap power, similar to putting the D0's on a 1975 engine, I think a 1972 engine could be the way to go.
My dad has a 1972 429 in his 1979 F-250, and he's not really into total rebuilds etc, he likes doing things cheap. Hence the $75 junk yard 429 in his truck with cast iron manifold and running exhaust manifolds.
Anyway with that huge cumbustion chamber and the compression not being that much different than 1973 and up, that means the pistons are not as dished. I know this to be true because the 460 I used also had D2 heads and I still have the pistons, they are nearly flat top. So if you had a 1972 engine, swapped the D2's for D3's (which are everywhere like you said, I have a few sets). It would get the compression up. So in my dads case all he'd have to buy is a gasket set, swap those D3s on and probably have a little better engine for cheap, he used the straight up timing gear set.
I know a guy who has a 1972 460 for sale for $150. If I scooped that up, swapped the timing set and some D3's I should have a decent engine for very little money. Thoughts?

 

Mr. Monster,


I do agree with the advantage of the even quench that the D3’s enjoy when a flat top piston is applied. Furthermore when using a positive arched piston, it is true that the flame front is required to crest the peak of the dome. This is further a hindrance as to the positive production of torque. Having said that, I strongly feel that the following myth will convey my rather accurate belief that although the prementioned statements are relatively accurate, the use of the D3VE head will significantly handicap the initial torque output and with modifications the separation will grow greater with the inferior D3VE head lagging yet farther behind the D0VE head.

Ford essentially dropped or "sunk" the D3VE chamber farther into the head (if you are looking at the deck side). This changed the intake port entry & floor a bit and the entry angle isn't as favorable. More specifically, the short-side radius is somewhat different.

The primary advantage of the D0VE head over the D3VE head is that you can use the early heads as a quick & dirty way to raise compression on a late shortblock.

It is also true that the C8/C9/D0VE heads are easier to convert to conventional roller rockers. I used a set of aftermarket studs to accept roller rockers years ago, only to snap one off due to increased spring pressure. That would not be a concern with D0VE's.

And lets not forget about the restrictive Exhaust humps that the D3's have. I've made the mistake of building a D3 headed BBF a long time ago that started out mild. Well as time went buy I started putting a little money into it and pretty soon I had a set of heads that had more money in them than D0VE's and wouldn't flow as well. When it's all said and done it's about a 40-50 HP difference.

I purchased a set of D0VE's this spring off of craigs list for 200.00 tanked and checked. Thats not the 1500.00 you'd pay for some scj's, and a little more than you'd pay for the D3ve's, but cheap insurance if you start putting money into'em and coming up 50hp short!!

And for the record D0VE's spell no more of a word than D3VE's. If your pronouncing them Doves, then I would have to say that's your mistake. As we all know the second character in the name is a "zero" and not the letter "O".

From the Urban story teller!!!