rear abs speed sensor question
#1
rear abs speed sensor question
1997 F-350, 351, automatic, 4wd
I bought a new rear abs speed sensor, and I'm not sure if it was the right part? I've pasted pictures of the new and the old one. Are these the correct parts?
this is the part I removed from the truck.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...BS530144-1.jpg
this is the part I got from napa.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...S10311_ANG.jpg
the new part did fit, but the abs and brake lights are still lit.
I bought a new rear abs speed sensor, and I'm not sure if it was the right part? I've pasted pictures of the new and the old one. Are these the correct parts?
this is the part I removed from the truck.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...BS530144-1.jpg
this is the part I got from napa.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/ge...S10311_ANG.jpg
the new part did fit, but the abs and brake lights are still lit.
#3
Thanks for the response. My confusion came from searching on the web and seeing as many as 5 different speed sensors for the F350. Since the rear sensor didn't fix it, I removed the driver's side front tire looking for the front ABS sensor and couldn't ind it. Doing more research on the internet, it looks like some of the older trucks only had the one sensor in the rear.
My next step is to disconnect and reconnect the battery and if that doesn't fix it, I'm going to chase the wires from the rear sensor to the front to see if there is a break somewhere.
My next step is to disconnect and reconnect the battery and if that doesn't fix it, I'm going to chase the wires from the rear sensor to the front to see if there is a break somewhere.
#5
Thanks for confirming linemo. I just signed up for 'alldatadiy' online manuals, and I'm reading up on that now.
Are there any other sensors that I should be checking? It's intermittent and seems to only come on when it's wet outside, but both my parking brake and my abs light will come on and stay on while I'm driving. They may not come on immediately, but when they come on while I'm driving, they stay on.
thanks again for the help.
Are there any other sensors that I should be checking? It's intermittent and seems to only come on when it's wet outside, but both my parking brake and my abs light will come on and stay on while I'm driving. They may not come on immediately, but when they come on while I'm driving, they stay on.
thanks again for the help.
#7
It also will not reset anything in the brake system.
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#8
subford,
I was hoping that replacing the rear sensor would fix the problem. When it didn't, I read on here that you might have to disconnect the battery or go over 30mph to reset the abs light. I did both and nothing changed. The light did go off after I cleaned a few power connections, but came right back on when I turned the truck off and back on. It has to be a loose wire somewhere because it will stay off for a week, then just come back on or no reason. It seems to come back on mostly when it's wet outside, so I'm still searching.
After doing more searching on this site, I think my cruise control not working (since I bought the truck last Dec) might be related. There is currently a recall for the cruise control and I might have to break down and take it in for that to see if it fixes it.
I DID find about 6 wires sticking through the firewall that had been stripped bare because the grommet either fell out or wasn't installed. I know some of them are for the gauges that haven't been working and I'm hoping that maybe one of them is related to the ABS light as well.
I was hoping that replacing the rear sensor would fix the problem. When it didn't, I read on here that you might have to disconnect the battery or go over 30mph to reset the abs light. I did both and nothing changed. The light did go off after I cleaned a few power connections, but came right back on when I turned the truck off and back on. It has to be a loose wire somewhere because it will stay off for a week, then just come back on or no reason. It seems to come back on mostly when it's wet outside, so I'm still searching.
After doing more searching on this site, I think my cruise control not working (since I bought the truck last Dec) might be related. There is currently a recall for the cruise control and I might have to break down and take it in for that to see if it fixes it.
I DID find about 6 wires sticking through the firewall that had been stripped bare because the grommet either fell out or wasn't installed. I know some of them are for the gauges that haven't been working and I'm hoping that maybe one of them is related to the ABS light as well.
#9
If you pull the codes on the this system with both lamps on you should either get a code 4 or 12.
Code 4 says:
PINPOINT TEST H: OPEN/GROUNDED RABS II VALVE RESET CIRCUIT (DTC 4)
Description
Code 4 is generated when the anti-lock electronic control module detects a short (less than 10 k ohms) in Circuit 535 (LB/R). This can indicate a short or open in the valve reset switch circuit or a hydraulic leak into dump section of the RABS valve.
Possible Contributing Base Brake Component/Vehicle Wiring Concerns
Terminal backout in the anti-lock electronic control module harness connector at Pin 6
Terminal backout in the RABS valve harness connector at Pins 4 or 3
Bulkhead connector (between engine compartment and instrument panel) terminal backout or loose connection
Anti-lock electronic control module or RABS valve connectors not fully mated with component
Open or intermittent open in Circuit 535 (LB/R) or Circuit 274 (BK/W)
Short or intermittent short in Circuit 535 (LB/R)
Defective RABS valve
Worn or damaged anti-lock electronic control module
And if got the code 12 it says:
PINPOINT TEST R: LOSS OF HYDRAULIC FLUID DURING ANTI-LOCK STOP (DTC 12)
Description
Code 12 is generated when the anti-lock electronic control module detects that the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir is low for one or more seconds during an anti-lock stop. It can also be generated by a short in the red brake warning lamp circuit.
Possible Contributing Base Brake Component/Vehicle Wiring Concerns
Low brake master cylinder reservoir fill level
Fluid leaks in vehicle brake system
Worn or damaged fluid level switch, or fluid level switch circuit shorted to ground
Brake master cylinder reservoir float that sticks in the bottom of brake master cylinder reservoir or does not float
Damaged diode/resistor element in red brake warning lamp circuit
Damaged ignition switch
Ground short or open in Circuit 512 (T/LG) or Circuit 531 (DG/Y)
Damaged anti-lock electronic control module
Code 4 says:
PINPOINT TEST H: OPEN/GROUNDED RABS II VALVE RESET CIRCUIT (DTC 4)
Description
Code 4 is generated when the anti-lock electronic control module detects a short (less than 10 k ohms) in Circuit 535 (LB/R). This can indicate a short or open in the valve reset switch circuit or a hydraulic leak into dump section of the RABS valve.
Possible Contributing Base Brake Component/Vehicle Wiring Concerns
Terminal backout in the anti-lock electronic control module harness connector at Pin 6
Terminal backout in the RABS valve harness connector at Pins 4 or 3
Bulkhead connector (between engine compartment and instrument panel) terminal backout or loose connection
Anti-lock electronic control module or RABS valve connectors not fully mated with component
Open or intermittent open in Circuit 535 (LB/R) or Circuit 274 (BK/W)
Short or intermittent short in Circuit 535 (LB/R)
Defective RABS valve
Worn or damaged anti-lock electronic control module
And if got the code 12 it says:
PINPOINT TEST R: LOSS OF HYDRAULIC FLUID DURING ANTI-LOCK STOP (DTC 12)
Description
Code 12 is generated when the anti-lock electronic control module detects that the brake fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir is low for one or more seconds during an anti-lock stop. It can also be generated by a short in the red brake warning lamp circuit.
Possible Contributing Base Brake Component/Vehicle Wiring Concerns
Low brake master cylinder reservoir fill level
Fluid leaks in vehicle brake system
Worn or damaged fluid level switch, or fluid level switch circuit shorted to ground
Brake master cylinder reservoir float that sticks in the bottom of brake master cylinder reservoir or does not float
Damaged diode/resistor element in red brake warning lamp circuit
Damaged ignition switch
Ground short or open in Circuit 512 (T/LG) or Circuit 531 (DG/Y)
Damaged anti-lock electronic control module
#10
Wow! thanks for the information. I recently signed up for alldatadiy.com and it has a lot of the information you just posted. I ordered a equu 3160[IMG]file:///C:/Users/me/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG] innova ABS code scanner and will hopefully get it the day after x-mas. I'm still going to do some troubleshooting today, but I think the scanner will help narrow down exactly what's wrong.
But to top it all off, I'm taking advantage of my time off to take the truck in for the cruise control recall and I also need to get inspected and they'll want to fix the abs light if I can't fix it before next Monday! Nothing like a little pressure to make you work on your truck!!
thanks again for the info.
But to top it all off, I'm taking advantage of my time off to take the truck in for the cruise control recall and I also need to get inspected and they'll want to fix the abs light if I can't fix it before next Monday! Nothing like a little pressure to make you work on your truck!!
thanks again for the info.
#11
To check for codes:
Key off.
Reconnect battery ground cable.
Verify all connectors are installed.
Locate and disconnect the diagnostic connector C159 from its mating half (Circuits 571 [BK/O] and 483 [R]).
Key to RUN. Begin diagnostic trouble code flashout by connecting Circuit 571 (BK/O) to a chassis ground for at least 1 second.
Count the flashes the Amber Lamp Flashes (flashout).
Key off.
Reconnect battery ground cable.
Verify all connectors are installed.
Locate and disconnect the diagnostic connector C159 from its mating half (Circuits 571 [BK/O] and 483 [R]).
Key to RUN. Begin diagnostic trouble code flashout by connecting Circuit 571 (BK/O) to a chassis ground for at least 1 second.
Count the flashes the Amber Lamp Flashes (flashout).
#12
Wife had to go out of town for a family emergency, so I finally got back to my truck today. I removed and cleaned the fluid level sensor on the master cylinder, made sure the float wasn't stuck and the lights went off?? Well, they did until today when I drove into town and they came back on when I started the truck back up. So I came home, and connected 571 to a chassis ground and got zilch. I did it several times and they didn't blink or anything.
To top it all off, my darn scanner hasn't arrived in the mail yet, and my appointment is for 0900 tomorrow morning. Hopefully they'll let me get away with just doing the cruise control recall and maybe I can talk to one of the techs about some ideas they might have. This truck is only for hauling horse sh** and I use it once a year to haul camping gear to SC, so don't want to throw a ton of money at it.
thanks for all the help. I'll let you know what they say.
To top it all off, my darn scanner hasn't arrived in the mail yet, and my appointment is for 0900 tomorrow morning. Hopefully they'll let me get away with just doing the cruise control recall and maybe I can talk to one of the techs about some ideas they might have. This truck is only for hauling horse sh** and I use it once a year to haul camping gear to SC, so don't want to throw a ton of money at it.
thanks for all the help. I'll let you know what they say.
#13
They said it would be 90$ to hook the scanner up. I told them to just plug in the recall harness for the cruise control (which still doesn't work) and got out of there. Got my scanner showing up tomorrow, so hopefully I can track this down and get it inspected.
I did add some brake fluid just to make sure that wasn't the cause. It was only about 1/4" below the max line and I already made sure the float wasn't stuck.
I did add some brake fluid just to make sure that wasn't the cause. It was only about 1/4" below the max line and I already made sure the float wasn't stuck.
#14
#15
ha ha, yeh, I realized that about an hour after the scanner arrived. I looked at so many scanners, I thought that I'd bought one that did both OBDI and II. But I guess I was so focused on getting one that did ABS, that I spaced the OBDI. OH well, I found one that does Ford OBDI for 24$ on Amazon.com.
Still doesn't help me on the ABS light, so I'm back to square 1.
Not sure what happened to that last post. I typed it up fast and clicked 'submit' before leaving my house. I returned 45 minutes later and it was still loading. I refreshed the page and edited the entry and submitted it again and it seemed to work. I guess that is how I got two entries...they are having fun with that......
Still doesn't help me on the ABS light, so I'm back to square 1.
Not sure what happened to that last post. I typed it up fast and clicked 'submit' before leaving my house. I returned 45 minutes later and it was still loading. I refreshed the page and edited the entry and submitted it again and it seemed to work. I guess that is how I got two entries...they are having fun with that......