I've got a creak that is really driving me nuts. It only happens when the wheel is turned, and it is sound only at this time. Steering componets are all still factory, and they are all tight. PS resivior is full.

About 3 weeks ago I replaced upper and lower ball joints. I thought that maybe I didn't get enough grease in them or any at all as my grease gun wasn't working correctly. After buying a new gun and replacing one of the zerks, I have gobs of grease oozing from the joints.

I next suspected the sway bar bushings. Since they are cheap, I replaced them anyway. Still no luck.

I also bought a grease needle for greasing the tie rod ends, still no luck.

I haven't tried greasing the pitman arm yet, but I think I am going to try it.

Any other ideas that I'm missing?

 

What about the control arm bushing? Good luck!

 

New bushings for upper control arms....they came with the new upper ball joints.

The lowers appeared to be fine at the time...I couldn't get any movement out of them.

 

I vote for pitman arm. Very common problem for them to squeak. I had to replace mine at 75K due to the exact symptoms you have.

 

My truck creaks also, doesn't bother me.

 

Hopefully this weekend I will tie into the rack a bit further, if I can get the right tie rod ends from Rockauto...they messed up my order.

Any way, I suppose that it would only make sense to replace the pitman arm as it would only be the only remaining non-greaseable joint on the whole steering rack after replacement of the tie rod ends.

Is it possible to only replace the ball joint on the arm and not the whole assembly? It's a spendy little bugger.

I should add that my truck has 127K k on it, I bought it a few months ago, and have completely rebuilt the rear end and drive shaft, new front bearings, new ball joints, new brakes and rotors. I bought the truck knowing that I would have to put suspension and steering parts into it, plus some body work. The motor and tranny are solid with out leaks. I have most of the work done, with some minor other issues.

It would not surprise me if the truck needed a pitman arm.

 

I was mistaken, it is the idler arm that is the spendy one. Looks like it makes sense to just replace the pitman arm as they about $20 to $45 depending on quality.

 

On my 97, Ford replaced the pitman arm under warranty for the same problem, I had it done around 25K miles.

 

I thought the only factory joints that had grease fittings/zerks, were the idler arm?

 

The cheaper brand suspension and steering parts don't usually have grease fittings. The better ones usually do, but they cost more. Creaking/Squeaking: Tie rod ends, Sway bar link bar bushings, upper or lower ball joints and don't forget to check the coil spring rubber isolator pads. The isolators reside between the end of the spring and the control arm. I recently did a Durango with a creak. After changing all the parts that were worn that you could clearly see had a problem there was still a small squeak when the suspension was pushed hard. I did a further inspection and found the lower coil spring rubber isolator was missing. Someone had done suspension work in the past and left out the rubber isolator. You have to look closely for these rubber isolators especially the ones between the top of the coil spring and the lower face of the upper control arm. You have to turn upside down to get a good view up in there to make sure the isolator is doing its' job.

 

Thanks for the tip, but my truck is 4x4.

I don't have any sounds from the suspension anymore since I have replaced the ball joints and upper control arms. Lower bushings were in great shape. Sway bar bushings are new.

Sound only comes when turning the wheel. Bouncing the front end doesn't recreate the creak.

 

The problem ended up being the idler arm, specifically the bushing that is on the post that mounts to the frame. The zerk would'nt take grease and must have finally gave way.

Anyway the pitman arm was fine, and looked like a real bear to remove with the front cross member in the way. I didn't see a real easy way to remove it, so I left it and replaced every thing else (idler arm, and rod ends).