The spin in type bendix was used from from the Model A era well into the 50's. This is definitely what you will find on a flatty.

 

I have a stupid question: When you turn the engine in the other direction, do you still hear the ratcheting noise?

 

Why don't you just remove the starter? Two bolts, 5 minutes tops. Then take a picture and post it so we can see what type of drive it has, and if the drive is retracted or not.

 

I'll try that ASAP tomorrow.

That will be the next step that I will do for you all tomorrow if the previous suggestions don't help.

Thank you all very much.

EDIT: It has a contraption that looks a lot like this, IIRC. See the gear teeth that is sort of "sandwitched" in between the top big metal "wheel" and the bottom one? I think that's what is "ratcheting".



See, when I put it in, it was ratcheting when I turned the starter by hand(check if it was frozen. But I though that as soon as I put it in place, it would "click" or something back into place and would disengage this weird ratcheting sound I was hearing. But I was wrong. The first time I turned the motor by hand, it made the same weird sound.

I will remove it tomorrow, as I said before--if I cannot resolve this.

EDIT: EDIT: I'm sorry Julie, I forgot to get the sound recording I told you I'd get.

 

It actually may be designed to do this. It sounds like it may ratchet when the engine starts to prevent gear wear. If that's true, then you shouldn't be able to turn the engine in the other direction - I would think. No need onthe "sound bite" I'm sure it sound like the typical ratchet wrench.

 

I know I'm old and easy to confuse but how did we go from working on a 351 to a 223.
I followed the switch as it happened but later went back to the original post to be sure what we were discussing and picked back up on the 351.

The starter drive pictured above is the older spin in type and the ratcheting sound is normal if the drive has been engaged and the engine not started which over drives it enough to kick it out.
When the engine starts it will disengage.
If you remove it you will see that it is in an extended position and you can not manually retract it with out a kind of tricky procedure.
I would not worry about the starter if it will crank the engine and when it comes time to start it see if all is not ok.

 

You just subtract 128!

 

I'm sorry that the pics are so big....I don't know how to edit them from photobucket.

I was never on the topic of a 351....maybe the last owner of the thread was! hhahahaha







There, I am turning the little rotor thing.

Do you see how it looks like it could move further towards the big spring at the end of the shaft? It used to be moved over further, but then I turned it with my hand, and I could never turn it to go back.

I know I didn't break anything, so nothing may be wrong with anything.


If nobody can help me after this, than I am just going to reinstall it and turn the damn motor over and see what happens....

Thank you all very much.

MOV00078.flv video by 4eyeswerentneeded - Photobucket

 

Just put it back on.
When it starts it will throw back and disengage. That is just the way it works.
If you turn the gear one way you will hear the ratcheting and the other way it will turn the starter.

 

^^^Exactly.

So, I will leave it be. I was simply afraid to risk a $100 starter. Also granted that it is built better than any new starter you can buy.

Thanks everyone. again.

 

I use a speedwrench along with an unusual tool I acquired at some point that is an adjustable socket. Kind of hard to describe, but it is somewhat like a drill chuck and made to adjust against the sides of bolts/nuts. It accepts a 3/8" drive on the other side. It works swell, and I now have one of the new drives that seat in the block. I did not think it would accomplish the task, but it sure does. Less chance for screwup, don't ask me what I know about screwing that job up real well with a drill. Joe