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Steering Box Leak

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  #1  
Old 12-19-2009, 06:17 PM
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Steering Box Leak

94 F250 with 105k on it and drove it to NC today, after an hour I looked out the window to see a decent puddle under the truck. Upon further investigation it's coming from the bottom of the gear box then runs down the pitman arm.
Anyone know if this is a hard fix to change out w/o getting much air in the system. Even possible bleeding the air out after installing new box since I REALLY don't want to go to the stealership for them to do it.
Any help is appreciated!!!!
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Old 12-19-2009, 06:30 PM
fordpwr fordpwr is offline
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Smile

after replacing the gear box fill p/s about 3/4 full, jack up front end off the ground so you can turn the steering wheel slowly bump stop to bump stop with out starting the engine, this will remove the air from the system, remember that the new steering gear box wont come with a pitman arm so you will need a puller to get it off the old one.
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:08 PM
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You can replace just seals on the pitman arm shaft if that's where the leak is coming from.
The best way is to disassemble the gear box but they can be replaced while it's still assembled. You'll need to drill and pry out the old seals.
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda_jim View Post
You can replace just seals on the pitman arm shaft if that's where the leak is coming from.
The best way is to disassemble the gear box but they can be replaced while it's still assembled. You'll need to drill and pry out the old seals.
Sounds good but the old pitman arm won't even budge with using the pitman arm puller. So I'm looking at replacing that too. Called Advance n they said the ealiest they can get one in is Christmas eve
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Old 12-19-2009, 07:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fordpwr View Post
after replacing the gear box fill p/s about 3/4 full, jack up front end off the ground so you can turn the steering wheel slowly bump stop to bump stop with out starting the engine, this will remove the air from the system, remember that the new steering gear box wont come with a pitman arm so you will need a puller to get it off the old one.
That works now if I could just get the arm off it would be Awesome!!! Thanks
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Old 12-19-2009, 08:35 PM
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Reseal it. If you live in the metro Atlanta area, bring it to me & I can reseal it for you. I am not a big fan of rebuilt steering boxes. They never seem to be adjusted properly, or they have the wrong spool valve in them.
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 73cntry View Post
Sounds good but the old pitman arm won't even budge with using the pitman arm puller. So I'm looking at replacing that too. Called Advance n they said the ealiest they can get one in is Christmas eve
Use a hammer to shock it loose. Hit the end of the puller, tighten, hit it, tighten ect. Tap on the pitman arm too.
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim View Post
Use a hammer to shock it loose. Hit the end of the puller, tighten, hit it, tighten ect. Tap on the pitman arm too.
Thanks Cuda_Jim sounds like this is common with our trucks or is it all of them like that. Found this kit on Advance Auto site and it displayed two seals with a snap ring, just wondering if it would be the right kit.
Powercraft Steering Gear Kit

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Part No. 8520
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<!-- Start - JSP File Name: CatalogEntryPriceDisplay.jspf -->$8.99

</FORM>
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Old 12-20-2009, 07:57 AM
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It happens to Chevy & Dodge too....
That's most likely the correct kit, 2 seals and a snap ring.
You could get a complete seal kit too if you decide to disassemble the gear...but not necessary.
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Old 12-20-2009, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda_jim View Post
It happens to Chevy & Dodge too....
That's most likely the correct kit, 2 seals and a snap ring.
You could get a complete seal kit too if you decide to disassemble the gear...but not necessary.
Heck my luck I'd dissasemble it and have extra parts left over. So I'll stick with the snap ring and two seals. Is it more of a pain to leave it in the truck since it could be easier too.
I'm down near cherry point NC but at least I can work on it in the garage. Which is a plus for me.
Thanks again for the help!!!! Hope everyone on here has a MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #11  
Old 12-20-2009, 09:16 AM
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Getting the old seals out is the hardest part. Pay attention to their orientation.
One faces up the other facing down.
I've had some success by drilling into the seal and installing a screw to use as leverage to pry on.
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  #12  
Old 12-20-2009, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuda_jim View Post
Use a hammer to shock it loose. Hit the end of the puller, tighten, hit it, tighten ect. Tap on the pitman arm too.
If the top part of your pitman shaft is aluminum, do not hit the tool with a hammer. The cover will break
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  #13  
Old 02-16-2010, 10:10 PM
Scott598 Scott598 is offline
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Top Seal

I am trying to replace the top seal on my 1991 F250's steering box. I finally was able to heat and pound the pitman arm off, but now cannot get the top piece apart to even look at the seals. Does anyone know how to disassemble this? I don't have a manual, nor can I find any info on this online.

Thanks
Scott
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Old 02-22-2010, 01:36 AM
hijo202 hijo202 is offline
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Leaky Steering Box

Tbone Heller...

Question then, I replaced my gear box and have had a continuous leak where the 2 lines go into it. I have tightened them up to the point I feel like I am going to break them. But I still have a continuous small leak there. The lines were flared that went onto the gear box. Are there 0-rings that are to go in there also or is it just a bad box. I live north on Atlanta on the I-85 side (currently in Afghanistan), but would love to have this stupid leak fixed.

Sorry to have hijacked this thread, but, trying to figure it out.

Thanks, Mark
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Old 02-22-2010, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by hijo202 View Post
Tbone Heller...

Question then, I replaced my gear box and have had a continuous leak where the 2 lines go into it. I have tightened them up to the point I feel like I am going to break them. But I still have a continuous small leak there. The lines were flared that went onto the gear box. Are there 0-rings that are to go in there also or is it just a bad box. I live north on Atlanta on the I-85 side (currently in Afghanistan), but would love to have this stupid leak fixed.

Sorry to have hijacked this thread, but, trying to figure it out.

Thanks, Mark
It depends on which style you have. If the hose has a shoulder on it, it requires an o-ring. No o-ring needed on the flair type. If yours is the flair type, be sure that the flair is free of debris & cracks. If you are using aftermarket P/S hoses, they could be the cause of your problem. Factory hoses seem to be of MUCH higher quality.
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