Trick Flow Twisted WedgeŽ Top-End Engine Kit

I was looking at these, they claim with a stock 2V short block 390HP.

My 4.6 is down to 95-105 PSI of compression on all the cylinders, and I am thinking of doing a few mods while it is out.

I am going to call and get a price Monday.

What do y'all think?

 

Well, they are good heads, but the added flow will move the powerband up and you will lose torque which is needed to move a heavy truck. They are more for the Mustang guy with more gear and less weight to lug around.

 

Well, I was looking at them for my old cop car.

I was not thinking of using them on a truck.

 

guy on another forum just got some not too long ago , but don't think he's got a running monster just yet ............ have to wander over and look ...............

 

Bill,we've looked very closely at these heads, and honestly they're not any better for a stock or mildly modified 4.6L than a set of ported stock heads are. On my TBird,I'd have a hard time getting any gains over what I'm using now. Good camshafts and intake manifolds are the big keys to making a modular run well.
What year CV do you have?
JL

 

the only thing that i see that is better that a reworked power improved head is the priority oiling in the tf head.the factory oiling design sucks for high performance engines that get turned high rpms.they perform better in forced induction but for a na engine i bet the gains arnt that much better than a set of ported factory heads.

 

Like I said....camshafts and intake manifolds are the keys to power with a modular-the OEM heads aren't really that bad ('91-'95 2V's excluded from that comment-those F1AE's are horrid.)..
JL

 

2000 with a 92 motor.

 

Ugghhh-you really need to address the entire engine first. Those old '91-'95 engines are terrible.
JL

 

Its a little low on power, but other than that I have been very happy with it.
What is different?

Should I get a junk yard 96- motor to rebuild rather than doing this one?

 

The '91-'95 F1AE heads are absolute crap. You can't port them for any gains, and the ports flow like crap because they were designed to be a "high swirl" port to enhance cylinder fill.
The '91-'95 blocks lack a rear cross bolt on the main, so there's less support for the crankshaft.
What are you wanting from the car? one of the easiest swaps for the power gained is to get an '02-up 2V Explorer/Mountaineer 4.6L. They have an aluminum block, so that drops approx 80 lbs off of the front of the car.
JL

 

I will look for one of those, how much power is gained?

I would like a reliable DD that will pull something in the 13 sec range and 0-60 in less than 6.5. If I cant do that I would settle for low 14s and anything under 7.

 

Bill,13's in a heavy sled of a car like a CV is not easy-especially N/A.
Mid-14's is a more practical number to look for without getting out of hand with torque converter stall speed and alot of rear gear,or a power adder of some kind.
The Explorer/Mountaineer engine will net 260ish hp at the crank vs the 210ish from an F1AE early CV engine.
JL

 

210 is all I have now?

How much does less than a CV does your Thunder bird weigh?

What have you done to make it run low 12s?

 

My car weighs 3600 lbs.
It's got the following:
Ported F5AE NPI heads
Kooks mid-length headers
Custom built mandrel bent exhaust with cats
Comp 270AH cams
10.2:1CR
Stock plastic PI intake manifold
BBK 75mm throttle body and ported upper inlet elbow
4200rpm stall speed torque converter with multidisc lockup clutch
4.30 gear with OEM Ford trac-lok
Built 4R70W
Good tune.
The car is a true street car with nothing gutted out of it. Still has power seats,windows,locks,A/C,etc,etc,etc.
JL