1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

What parts can I use

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  #31  
Old 12-17-2009, 06:52 PM
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Havi...you finally said it.....This site is about saving these old trucks. I agree.
I have had many trucks and seems like they are coming out of the woodwork now...do to economy. I absolutely hate seeing these trucks make it 50 yrs for someone to scrap it. If that is your business...then great. As for me...keep this 56 together if possible.
Like tacson said, it all matters if the sheetmetal is good.
Hopefully it can be saved,and pay what you can for it. If you cannot afford the entire price,maybe I can help a guy out.
Bill
 
  #32  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:09 PM
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Yea we are not sure what they are worth. The way it works is the owner says to take it. They load it and take it in weather its $10 or 10,000 they bring the reciept and cash back to the original owner and split it 50/50. End of transaction. Unless some of the stuff is alot more work to load than its split different like 60/40.

He wants to try to save the trucks, but he does keep people on his payroll. And keeping them would depend on how much $$ intake there was that week. I am all for saving old trucks. Search for my thread about my 53 project truck, it super rough.

So anyways i wanna make sure I got this correct. I can use the cab? Can I use my original hood,grill, fenders? I am not super worried about keeping the original radiator shroud or anything because im going to build my own. I just hope for a good solid cab and maybe a few extra parts that I can sell to somebody that want them.
 
  #33  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:19 PM
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  #34  
Old 12-17-2009, 07:42 PM
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i understand money is tight but if you cant afford to buy it outright. and the price is right someone on here may pay for it and give you a finders fee. then you make a couple bucks and get to save a old truck. as said someone my want the rims if there 22.5s and pay the whole asking price to obtain them and you keep all the rest and scrap the frame i hate writing so much cause i never went to school and don't know punctuation. but these things needed to be said
 
  #35  
Old 12-17-2009, 08:08 PM
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If you want to use the 56 cab you will need to keep the doors also. Other than that your other hood, fenders, etc. will interchange.
 
  #36  
Old 12-17-2009, 08:29 PM
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what are the rims even worth? I cant find any on ebay or anything for reference price.
 
  #37  
Old 12-18-2009, 01:35 AM
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No way to give an exact answer to that. Depends on condition, depends on how wide they are, depends on finding the right guy that wants them. The issue of width, though, is important. Some of the early 22.5s were 5.25" wide and were spec'd for either 7" or 8" tires. Other 22.5s were 6.75" wide. The 7" and 8" tires are no longer made. The narrowest tire today is a 9R22.5 which properly fits on the 6.75" rim. Guys have used the 9" tires on the narrower rims, but I think that would limit value some.

If the rims are the wider variety, straight and rust free, I won't be shy about asking $200 to $300 each. If you stop and think about what new Accurides cost, and about what it costs to make custom wheels, that's not at all out of line. Actually, I know of a dealer that probably got that much for each of the narrow variety. The fact that that bolt pattern is no longer produced in a 22.5" size makes them very valuable. Stu
 
  #38  
Old 12-18-2009, 08:42 AM
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STU,
If you know anyone needing a set of 6 I still have that set I was trying to sell. I was only asking $100 each or 6 for $500.

You just dont see the 22.5 6 lug everyday. I have sold 20" lock ring 6 lug rims for $100 each in the past and I really feel the 22.5" rims are worth more, just a lot of people dont have 2 nickles to rub together right now

Xtremlow,
If you get them, you may have them for a while, but when the right person comes along you'll make your money
BTW if you parted that truck out you will be looking at about $2500 or MORE in sales THEN you scrap whats left
 
  #39  
Old 12-18-2009, 08:55 AM
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Havi~
You confirmed my experience earlier this summer with scrap pricing. And the experience was real - what I got, not phone calls, for a fire truck body only. I called around to see what pricing was before driving a marginably legal truck all over, and all quoted the same. It was prepped at home for pulling the body, drove it in, undid 6 frame bolts and they pulled it with a claw, gave me $80/ton and I drove home the cab and chassis.

I was surprised, not being in the business I didn't realize the plummit in price from a couple summers back at around $250/ton. So it did affect my overall project cost, getting less for the sheet steel body and tank unit. This was about 40 miles from where the trucks in this post are.

Xtrmolw
Now, as to the trucks, I have no interest in them, other than saving them. My offer to look at them with you was to give another opinion and let you know if the wheels on the Ford are worth saving, nothing more. I am relatively close as the scope of this Forum goes and thought I could help. I already have enough projects / trucks here.

Using Stu's advice above on the wheels, when measuring width do it from where the tire bead seats, not the edge of the rim.
 
  #40  
Old 12-18-2009, 09:02 AM
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Bigwin~
Is there still much demand for 20" 6 lug lock rings? When I was scouring yards for my 20" lock rings with 5 x 8" mounting, I was finding 6 lugs left and right. I even had 2 driveable F-600's C&C's lined up for $300 ea with a full compliment of wheels. If there is a demand I can head back to some of the yards and re-check availability.
 
  #41  
Old 12-18-2009, 09:03 AM
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xtrmlow. Yep you can use your 53 sheet metal with the 56 cab. If you don't want to use the 56 cab send me a p.m. and perhaps we can make a deal. I live near Brighton so it's no big deal to come up your way.

Chuck
 
  #42  
Old 12-18-2009, 09:38 AM
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Like I said before, I would be interested in the 22.5s....but if money is tight for you.....you won't want to hold on to them.....but sell them asap.
I already said I would help out if they are worthy of my wants and needs.
I will not pay inflated prices. If they are worth 200-300 apiece, then I am not interested.
I have 4 extras now. I just thought that you need to look the 56 over and decide what is rotted bad and what is clean enough to use.
Tearing the truck apart also takes time and it is winter.
You will also need room to haul it home. This is not a f100...lOL
 
  #43  
Old 12-18-2009, 09:41 AM
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Is there a salvage title? Ask for it,and the salvage yard keeps these when they are brought in.
Also,is it always been a Michigan truck? Look and see if any tags etc show it came from another state.
Hopefully it lived in the west or south for a time.
 
  #44  
Old 12-18-2009, 10:12 AM
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Exclamation MICHIGAN???!!!!!!

Originally Posted by xtrmlow
its here in michigan not far from me. We dont have an option for not parting it out. I can only take the bare minimum as im super broke and cant afford to buy it. theres three trucks total 40's ford, 50's ford, 60's chevy all big grain trucks. I hate to see them scrap it, So what can i swap over? I know the overall cab is bigger correct?


WHERE????!!!!!!!!!!

Can you get a price to purchase the "whole" truck?

-
 
  #45  
Old 12-18-2009, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by WALFORD'S 56
I will not pay inflated prices. If they are worth 200-300 apiece, then I am not interested.
This is the problem when somebody asks the value of something. We generally either evade the question or hedge totally, but rarely give an honest answer. In this case I gave an honest answer, with the listed caveats and comparisons. If we're trying to help the member save this truck, recoup his investment, and make it worth his while I think this is one of the times when a straight answer was warranted. It's also worth repeating that this goes down the toilet if the truck is sitting on widow makers. Stu
 



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