I got my insulation off the inernet. There seem to be three major kinds. One was way to pricey. I bought some in the middle range for about $100 as I recall. I think it was called something like"Be-Quite". It is about 1/8 in thick, very sticky black with aluminum backing. It came in a 12" role and very heavy. It's almost impossible to take off after you sick it down- like contact cement. And very messy. I learned the hard way not to let the black touch anything. But I think it will really do the job when I get my truck on the road and it's not going to fall down for sure. I did the whole inside of the cab, including inside the doors.I glued on a second type of insultation (for heat) under the headliner. It was hardward store stuff but with carpet pad looking material 3/8" attached to the aluminum.
Here is a post I did awhile back. I later did a similiar test including a product sold by a member of the Jalopy Journal/ HAMB board that compared very favorably. If I can find that I will post it. Joe
This past weekend I had the chance to do some testing with a non-contact temp sensor on my three hot rods. I have just completed installing B-Quirt over the Lizard Skin sprayed earlier. I was a little concerned about that decision and wanted to see, before upholstery, how it performed. The outside temp was low 90's in bright sun. The car is a 1940 Ford coupe painted black. First I tested outside of an area that does not yet have B-Quiet on it [ran out]. I was shocked to find only a 5 degree difference between the outside and directly opposite on the inside. I had the Lizard Skin applied by a local shop that does so regularly. Did they not do it corectly???? Certainly looked good, but how do you ascertain 40 mils? I later decided to do the underside of the car and sprayed it myself, I don't know if I got 40 mils. I do like how the Lizard Skin seals the surface. Anyway, next I tested the area with B-Quite over the Lizard Skin. WOW, a 60 degree difference. I also tested my Blue 46 coupe with some insulation that comes from the aircraft industry [not sure of the name, black, closed cell foam type stuff] and a headliner. It was 40 degree's different. Then I tested my 53 F100 with two layers of the "jute" backed foil. I put the first layer in with the foil toward outside and then was told by many that was the wrong way, so I intalled a second layer with the foil to the inside. It has a Rod Doors ABS plastic headliner. It also tested at a 40 degree difference. Of course, what I don't know is what a effect a headliner will have on the 40, I hope for the better.
fordie--- If I can do it, then you can for sure!
A lot of folk go cheap because it's something you cover up, but what a difference Dynamat and Dynaliner have made. Hands down easy to handle and install, almost a shame to cover it up. Take a sec and check out my gallary under sound up grades.
Test results with Lobucrod's insulation. I wish that I could have done this in the same temperature as the last but didn't want to wait untill next summer. It was only about 78 degrees on this day. I used the trunk lid on my 46 because it has nothing in the way of insulation on the inside. I attached a piece of B-Quiet, Lobuc's, jute with foil, and the airline industry stuff. With the outside temp on the decklid at 111 degrees I obtained the following results. B-Quiet 84 deg, Lobuc 84 deg, jute/foil 88 deg and airline stuff 86 deg's. Later it dawned on me that I could create heat with my "halogen lights on a pole". So I set this up in the shop and tested the Lobuc and the B-quiet on my 40 project that has the Lizard Skin sprayed on. I was able to heat the outside surface to 160 degrees. The area that I had already installed B-quiet over the LS showed 80 degrees on the interior side, the Lobuc over the LS was 85 degrees. I have pics to back this up if anyone needs to see them, well not the halogen light induced temp because the lite was too bright to take any pics. Some thoughts about what I think that I have learned. First Lobuc has a good product that I will use again. It is as good at temp reduction as B-Quiet for a lot less money. It also is lighter than B-Quiet and easy to remove if needed, I learned that removing the B-Quiet after it has been on a while is VERY hard, as it leaves a coating of tar on the surface. Yes it looks and smells like a fresh asphalt coating on a parking lot. I would not be happy to deal with this stuff after it has been on the car for awhile. This experience makes me rethink the value of using this type of stuff. I don't know how Lobucs product would stack up against B-Quiet as far as sound control goes. Also, there did not seem to be any advantage to adding a layer of Lobuc's over the B-Quiet I already have. Putting two layers of Lobuc's product together also seemed to not lower the temp reduction. My next project will probably get a coating of Lizard Skin with Lobucrod's product over it. One last thing in case you did not see my other post regarding the thickness of Lizard Skin. I was recently able to test what was sprayed on my 40 [some by me, most by an experienced shop] with an expensive device that measure mills of coating thickness. Lizard skin recommends 40 mils, my 40 varies from 10 to 20 miils. A friend that recently did the floor of his car had to apply three coats with a roller to get to 40 mils of thickness. Just FYI. Joe
yea i just have a couple of hot water heater blankets on the floor of my 64 and it made a huge difference compared to when i was running it with a bare floor. my 59 will get dynamat or some similar product tho.
What type of cab insulation are you using? Happy with it? Anybody use the stuff from hdw.stores that looks like bubble wrap with silver foil on one side??
Just another option is Quiet Ride Solutions. They have complete precut kits with everything you need. For my 48 the cost is 436.00. I haven't got one yet but when looking for headliners I saw it on there web site.