I know waigon did this a few months back, but I finally got mine and figured I'd share the experience...
This is a very easy DIY mod. I got the kit from PartsGuyEd.
The kit contains a new headlight switch (can be purchased with and without auto lights), a wiring harness that plugs into the factory connection, and two fog lamp housing assemblies w/bulbs...
First thing to do is find a 5/16 wrench of some type, I used a 1/4" ratchet with a 3" extension. This is the only tool that you will need.
I started with the switch. With the door open, pull the side panel off of the dashboard to get access to the headlight switch. Reach in and unplug the connector from the back of the headlight switch. With your right hand on the dash panel that contains the headlight switch (so it doesn't pop out) use your left hand to push the switch out from behind. This takes quite a bit of force, but there are only two metal spring clips that hold it in...and well. Push the new switch (w/fog lights) in where the old one (w/o fog lights) came out, plug in the connection from behind, and replace the side of the dashboard. With the ignition on and the radio off, turn on the headlights and pull the switch outward (to turn the fog lights on). As you do this, listen for the relay to click to make sure there is a fog light relay and it is operational... turn the headlights and the ignition off, and pop the hood... you're done inside.
Open the hood and use your 5/16" socket to remove the plates from where the fog lamps go (just outside of the tow hooks). Start with the top bolt on each one, as it is hard to get to and removing it first make it easier to turn since the plate is not dangling yet. Then remove the other two on each from underneath. The plastic plates can be removed from underneath by finagling them past the frame and bumper. Next, remove the hood stop from the passenger side (the one with the secondary hood release on it). The passenger side fog light cannot fit past the bumper, frame and headlight without removing something, and this is the easiest. The two bolts holding it are 5/16", too. Remove the lower bolt first, and then the upper bolt. Move the bracket, still connected to the truck by the release cable, out of the way (I placed it up over the radiator support). Once this is done, place one of the plastic plates that you just removed over the hood latch. This is to prevent you from closing the hood while the latch is not in the correct position.
Next, while the fog light holes are still empty, install the wiring harness. This harness will go under the frame and the rubber matt in the center. The fog light connection is on the driver side just to the outside of the horn. It will have a blank plug in it. Remove the blank plug, and plug in the harness. Route the harness down and to the outside of the hood stop. The first attachment point is on the hood stop. The second attachment point is on the bumper support (to make it easier to find, attach the first and third points then find the only hole that the second will reach). Route the harness down and under the frame along the bumper. The third attachment point (for the main run) is just underneath the frame and a little difficult to get to. The fourth and fifth attachment points are underneath the center rubber matt. Run the harness underneath the matt and attach where the holes are. The sixth and final attachment point for the main run is opposite the third, and equally hard to get to.
Now, the fog lights can be installed by slipping them in from above (complete the first before starting the second in order to prevent dropping and scratching the second while it is not secure). Install the light assemblies in the reverse that you removed the plates, and using the same bolts (lower two first, and then upper). Tighten them until the rubber just starts to deform. This will allow the housings to vibrate without fatigue, yet still keep them secure. Once you install the passenger side fog lamp assembly, replace the passenger side hood stop, too (upper bolt first, then lower) being sure to match the washer to the worn ring to make sure it goes back exactly where it came off.
Once both assemblies are secure, plug the connectors in, and attach the final two points. These are a few inches from the connection, and will attach to the lower inside leg of the fog light assembly.
The fog lamps can only be adjusted for elevation using the adjustment screw just below the light.
Pack your tools, box up the old parts, close your hood and wait for fog.
It is too dark to take pictures now, but I will if anyone wants them...
You can get the passenger side one in with out removing anything. If you take the fog lamp adjustment screw out and slide it in just right it will go in.
Also the panel with switch on it comes off with the switch in it then you can easily remove the switch. I used a big pair of channel locks to squeeze in the tabs and it slid right out.
Replace the original bulbs with some 900? headlight bulbs and it is a huge difference.
Now someone just needs to figure out (and test it on there truck =) ) how to do the fog light on with high beams on the 08 and up.
I know there is one post here on how to do this that one of the electrical guru’s figured it out but it had not been tested and I'm not willing to try it on my truck. Especially with no dealership in town anymore
I bought the only 2008 F250 XL in the world that came "less fog light wiring"; can someone look at the wire colors for the shorting plug and reply? There is a cluster of wires that feed the corner light, low, and high beams behind the drivers headlight but no shorting plug to plug into the round connector on the light harness. I'm thinking, perhaps, wrapped up in the bundle toward the firewall, there are 2 wires that will connect to the harness (with the connector from Ford).
Other than not having juice, the install was pretty simple. I'd recommend looking for the shorting plug before beginning the install, though. It is a little disappointing now.
Going to revive this thread because it was very useful to me and I want to add my experience to it.
My truck is a 2008 F250 XL. Just in case there are some that are unaware, the XL is the base model (as opposed to the XLT, Lariat, etc). As such there are a several features that come standard on the higher trim levels that do not come standard on the XL. And there are some features that CANNOT be added without changing one of the computer modules, such as the PATS "anti-theft" system with the transponder keys. My truck does not have PATS. I was able to cut a key with no chip and it works fine, I also have a manual key lock on both doors, not just the driver side. The line between XL and XLT is somewhat blurred as there are several features that, although not standard on an XL, can be added by the factory to an XL. Like mirrors, clearance lights, etc. The line between XL and XLT is further blurred as I have read that some of the XLs have PATS!
So it is unclear to me exactly what features can be upgraded without swapping a computer module. Magical CAN bus lights seemed like a good candidate for need-a-new-computer, so it was unclear to me wether fog lights could be added without swapping a computer module. (Maybe the original poster has an XL with PATS, I don't know. One of the posters said they have no factory wiring for fog lights at all, so I didn't want to make assumptions.) So I rolled the dice, bought factory fog light modules, the factory pig-tail harness for the fog lights, and a genuine Ford replacement headlight switch that has the button-pull-out feature which turns out the fog lights. I installed it all as per the original post, and it works perfectly!
-I bought the lights and wiring harness off of eBay. Best price I found at the time of this post is $111 for the lights with free shipping and $42 for the pig-tail harness, again with free shipping. Part numbers for the lights: 7C3Z-15200-AA & 7C3Z-15201-AA. Part number for the wiring harness: 8C3Z-15A211-A.
-I bought the light switch from Amazon. Actually cheaper than eBay (sign of the times I suppose). $35.78 with free shipping. Part number for the switch: Motorcraft SW6587.
-Finding the plug. I think the original post was pretty clear, but the plug for the fog lights in the main truck wiring harness is sticking out of the engine bay right next to the horns, which are near the upper right corner of the radiators. The plug has a cap on it if you did not have fog lights from the factory. The plug is grey, about 1/2" in diameter, and with the cap on is about 1-1/2" or 2" long and kinda looks like a sensor of some kind if you didn't know any better.
-Push pins. As the original poster said, the holes for the push pins are under the rubber mat in the grill. More specifically, they are in the (on my XL) black bumper lip under and forward of the radiator, right next to and under where the rubber mat mounts. They are there. keep looking. I swear.
-Magic. After installing the lights and harness, I was disappointed that the fog lights didn't work. Then I read the post again and saw that I needed to replace the headlight switch. So, a day latter while pumping gas, I popped out the trim piece with the headlight switch and dimmer wheel, unplugged them, listed to the truck complain that it didn't have a headlight switch by beeping at me, pushed the head light switch out of the trim piece, push the new switch in, plugged it all in, AND IT JUST WORKED!
-Bonus. Wonder if that means I now have "auto" headlights?? I'll let you all know.... Just checked, I now also have the auto headlight feature... well, not really. Apparently you have to buy a light sensor and have a dealership re-program a computer (see what I mean?). But turning the switch to the "auto" setting does turn on the head lights and they do turn off after a bit after you remove the key, so kinda.
I do have the Power Equipment Group which I think is the option that opens the upgrade opportunities.
I guess I never put pics in this thread. Oops!
Since this was done I also noticed I had wiring for the Sun Load Sensor on the dash. I also noticed that my radio lights would sporadically dim and flicker when my amber lights are on... Almost like there was a transient voltage across an open circuit where a sensor should go!!
I installed the Sun Load Sensor and suddenly, even with my headlamps on, the radio display doesn't dim until it gets dark. I'd complained about that for years! I always turn my ambers on to drive.
I did not get a switch with Auto lamps, but it may work with no programming required. I cannot verify, but the sensor is cheap!
TexasRebel, I know exactly what you mean. Very annoying to have the radio (and dash display!!!) dim when you turn on the lights, let alone the running lights. Personally I like to actually see what is on my radio display and dash display when I am driving in bright sunlight and want to have my lights on.
So I pried up the little cover where the sentinel sensor/sun load sensor/sun load temperature sensor/sunlight sensor/ambient light sensor/sunload sensor (seriously Ford? wtf??) would go, and the wires are there! thanks Tex! So I ordered the (insert word here) sensor off of flea-bay. Seems like it should work, I'll post again when it shows up. The part I ordered was: 7L1Z-13A018-A
After adding the light sensor (part number 7L1Z-13A018-A, $20.95) the auto headlight feature now works, with no programming. It just works. Now I can leave my headlights and fog lights (pull the switch out in any position to turn on the fog lights) turned on using the auto headlight setting on the new headlight switch. On this setting the headlights and fog lights turn on and the head unit and dash display dim when it gets dark, and the reverse when it gets light.