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1997 - 2003 F150 1997-2003 F150, 1997-1999 F250LD, 7700 & 2004 F150 Heritage SPONSORED BY:

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Old 12-08-2009, 02:46 PM
grizzly041771 grizzly041771 is offline
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1997 F150 5.4 engine just lost power and was making PUT PUT noise

On my way home, my 1997 F150 5.4L just went crazy. The engine was running like a top and I stopped at a red light. When the light turned green and I started to accelerate, the truck lost power and started making this loud PUT, PUT sound. The sound does vary with the engine RPM. I pulled over and popped the hood, and it definitely sounds like the sound is coming from the right side of the engine (facing forward). I decided to risk driving the rest of the way home as I was only 3 miles away. The truck PUT-PUTTED all the way home. The idle was VERY rough, and the engine almost sounded like it was going to die when I came to a complete stop. The check engine light did come on after a couple of minutes, and I have pulled the following codes:

P0300
Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

P0353
Ignition Coil C
Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction

P1131
Manufacturer Contr
Fuel Air Metering

It almost sounds like the right side of the engine just died suddenly. Any thoughts as to where to begin to find out what is wrong with this engine.

Thanks in advance.


UPDATE:
Found the problem. Cylinder 3 plug ejector tripped. Was looking at the coil packs and noticed that cylinder three looked slightly out of whack. Sure enough, the bolt hole was broken and I lifted the coil pack out. Needless to say, it was mangled. The plug was just resting in the hole. I cleaned it off and screwed it back in place and put an older coil pack I had laying around on it. Truck is running like a champ again. The only concern I had was it doesn't seem like too many threads are actually holding the plug. I was VERY careful not to crossthread. I pushed a piece of lawnmower fuel line over the terminal of the plug and lowered it into the hole. Once the plug hit bottom, I started turning the fuel line so as not to torque the plug too hard if it was trying to cross thread. Once that was secure (maybe 1 turn, maybe more, hard to tell), I place the socket down into the hole and snugged the plug up (maybe 1/4 turn). Just doesn't seem like a lot of the threads are being used and don't want this to happen again.

Last edited by grizzly041771; 12-08-2009 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Fixed problem
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:14 PM
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Ron W. Ron W. is offline
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Check for a missing spark plug / C.O.P. you may mave blown a plug out of the head.
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:18 PM
grizzly041771 grizzly041771 is offline
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Yep. You replied as I was updating. Plug 3 was blown out apparently and mangled the lower half of the coil pack. Cleaned the plug off, put an old CP I had laying around on it, and it's running like a champ again.

Thanks for the advice!
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:23 PM
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lariat97 lariat97 is offline
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Watch that plug. The 5.4 is bad about blowing plugs. You may be lucky but many have to use timeserts to fix this problem. Check thread about plug s blowing in 5.4s
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:31 PM
grizzly041771 grizzly041771 is offline
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Do you have to completely tear down the engine to put one of those timeserts in? I've worked on older engines before, but not one of these modular engines. I'm kind of a hands on guy, so I would prefer doing it myself if possible. Thanks again.
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Old 12-08-2009, 04:37 PM
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No it can be done without a tear down. Ford didn't put enough threads on the plugs so this is common on the pre 03 models. I had a 97. It never threw a plug in 160k miles. I think there is a thread about this issue on the site. Check out www.time-sert.com. They have a kit part number 5553 just for the Ford Triton motor.
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Old 12-16-2009, 01:32 AM
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Careful about the plug torque on the early modular 5.4 engines as there are only 4 threads holding it in that soft head. should be 13 ft lbs. that aint much. don't trust your "mechanics feel". I bought and can recommend a digital torque wrench from snap-on for 300 bucks. well worth the money.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:33 AM
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I would suggest if you ever have to do it yourself is to buy the kit from time-sert. It's better than a heli-coil. Had this happen to my truck, unfortunately I was away from home and had to dish out 200 bucks or so to do it. turned out to be 550 to replace a valve they had screwed up in the process. it's a doable job in your garage, I'd hate to do the one in the way back of the motor however.
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Old 12-16-2009, 09:33 AM
 
 
 
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