Anyone know if the oil pan can physically be removed from the truck without taking the engine all the way out? I know it will at least have to come loose from the mounts and be jacked up. Factory service manual has a whole section on removing the 460 oil pan in the E250-E350 vans, but says nothing about the F250-F350. The truck of concern is a 96 F250 4x4 with an automatic trans.

 

Should be similar to the small block...get the motor up off the mounts, take the oil pan loose then the oil pump. You may have to take the upper intake off for added clearance but a 460 may have the valve covers that hit the firewall before the intake ever does so.

 

When i had the pan down in my 96 f350 to replace the rear main . All i would had to have done to get it out was drop the oil pump and it would of cam right out, but my trans was out too

 

I know this is an old thread,but is the rear seal a 2 piece or 1 piece seal on the 460,also will the pan come off without taking a 5 speed manual tranny out.

 

It is a two piece. Will it come off? Yes. Easily? No. The best way to do this is to pull the motor, because if you have to get the tranny out of the way and lift the motor up anyway, you might as well leave the tranny in, and pull the motor out. MAKE SURE YOU PUT BOTH HALVES OF THE SEAL IN THE RIGHT WAY. My first 460 rebuild went really well with this one exception. Don't do what I did. For reference, I took a pic of the rear cap and seal when I had to pull the motor again to fix my really stupid mistake. This is the wrong way.

 

Agreed. it can be done but what a PITA. Pull the engine

 

If I have to pull the motor,might as well put in a new crate motor.The truck has 176,000 miles on it but run's perfectly,so I am just going to wait until it need's a motor.

 

You would replace the engine because you pulled it? That is silly

 

Seems a little extreme... How bad is the leak? If you really want a new motor, find a good deal on a JY 460, have a good builder rebuild it how you want it, and swap motors whenever so your truck doesn't have to sit. You will spend as much or more than a crate motor, but you will have options on how you want it built, as opposed to stock.

If your leak isn't that bad, I would leave it alone and add oil as necessary, because pulling the motor is no small feat.

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Actually the leak was very small,so I tightened the bolt's up a little and the leak has stopped.

 

Then it wasn't a rear main leak anyway

 

I am doing a rear main on my 86 f250 with a 460. Engine in. Ive got the pan off. going to re install the oil pump. What's a good way to make sure you have the oil pump rod back in the bottom of the dist. right, before buttoning it all up? I really don't want to have to do this twice. Thanks.

 

One way is to use the procedure to line up #1 cylinder at TDC then pull distributor.

Just in case, make SURE your completely familiar with the procedure before you start.

These engines can be HARD to remove distributor from, even rotate it, if it's stuck on it's O-ring.

 

I ended up getting a snake camera for my smart phone. it has led lighting. My plan is to snake it up the bottom whIle I put the rod in. I should be able to see it go in, the connect it to the pump and bolt it up. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

You may need more hands than you have for that.

Thinking back on when I did my pan gasket, I believe I had the timing cover off, doing the water pump etc. at the same time, and you can see the pump drive rod for most of it's length when inserted.

But what I did, and I DO NOT necessarily recommend, is I snaked a length of very thin mechanic's wire around rod, below the retainer that is on the upper end of the rod, to hold it up into the base of the distributor, then installed the pump.

The wire ends were attached to timing cover bolts temporarily screwed into their holes.

All this is much more difficult than it sounds, as your reaching under the engine block through the small opening that the oil pan allows, aligning the pump socket, seating the pump, then bolting it up, mostly by feel.

Then the mechanics wire has to be on the rod in a way that when you disconnect it, you must be able to pull one end, and gently pull the entire length out.