Well, I've been fighting a clutch problem for several months. I've changed my Clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder and throw out bearing. I've also changed out my Clutch Master cylinder twice and have taken it out 5 times to bleed the system because its been so hard to change gears. Well i think i found my problem. see pic's


http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...r/SANY0195.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...r/SANY0196.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...r/SANY0197.jpg

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...r/SANY0198.jpg

 

Well just got done changing the pedal support assy and it feels like i got alot more clutch pedal travel. It started raining so i couldn't finish the job but i hope this will fix my problem. wish me luck. I got the pedal support bracket assy from the dealer for $98.96 which included the bracket and both brake and clutch pedals. Part number was 6L5Z2455BB. Also bought the special plastic clutch rod retainer that holds the rod to the pedal for $10.81 part number 6C3Z7A581A

 

well i'm hear to tell ya that my truck is fixed!!!!!!!! Shifts like new. Hard to believe that it was the bracket but it was. Hope this will help others that have a hard to shift problem and have bled their Clutch system.

 

Excellent pics!

I'll inspect mine for wear.

 

Wow - this is exactly what I was looking for - someone who has had this same problem. I have a Mazda 1996 B2300 pickup (Ford Ranger equivalent). The ware and tare on this part in my truck is actually worse than what you have posted, and its starting to affect proper clutch function.

I am wondering if I could replace this part myself...I'm not too good with cars.
Did you have to take out the clutch master cylinder to free this part loose? Or more generally, how much disassembly to the car did it require to replace it?

I'd really appreciate any comments - I'm worried that this part is at a point where the rod that holds the break and clutch pedals will fall out of place (it move up and is almost out of place now when the clutch is depressed).

 

you don't have to remove anything but a few bolts. The Master Cylinder I believe will be loose when you remove all the bolts but you will not have to remove it or any lines. The clutch rod will have to be disconnected from the pedal and mine had a plastic piece that broken that you can get at the dealer which is where you would have to buy the bracket. Its not that hard but it a little pain in the neck looking up to see where all the bolts are. I also think you have to disconnect the brake light switch. The brake and clutch pedal came with the new bracket and install as an assembly. good luck

 

Thank you for your quick reply. I am happy to hear this.

I have the part on order and will be getting it later this week. If my subscription to this forum allows it, I'll try to post some photos. My part seems to be in worse condition than what you have posted...surprised it has not yet fallen out.

 

I hope your parts man ordered the right part for your truck. The part number i listed was for my 96 Ranger and i don't know what all trucks it fits.

 

The local dealer told me that that particular part has either gone through 4 versions since 1996, or the manufacture/supplier was changed at some point. Anyhow, the part number you supplied is a part that may have originated in 2006... perhaps it was upgraded.

We'll see later this week.

Thanks much for you help

 

forgot that the Clutch Master cylinder is mounted to the bracket and will have to be disconnected but not totally removed

 

anything new? Pic's of old and new bracket?

 

Yes - the parts came in, and I managed to replace it successfully. The car runs incredibly smooth now.

I do have pics, but have yet to upload them.

I guess for anyone who might be running across a similar problem, here's a few notes on what I experienced:

Problems: these were gradually building up over about 3 years (without me knowing what was up). For the last 2 years I was unable to start the car by depressing the clutch. I had to reach under near the clutch, and manually move the interlock switch up to engage it, then turn the key in order for the car to start. I replaced this part once, but it turned out to be a waste of $45. More recently my brake lights would not go out after the car was turned off unless I moved the brake pedal back toward the steering wheel before getting out of the car. Not to mention the more recent problem with putting the car in first gear and in reverse... generally, over the last few months, the pedal were loose to the point where it was getting more difficult to switch gears smoothly.

After replacing this one part, all these issues went away, and I'd say the car drives nearly like new. I don't know much about auto mechanics and such, but I managed to replace this part in a total of about 7 hours. I had to:
1) disconnect the brake pedal from the wires and the rest of the brake system
2) disconnect the clutch by braking the little plastic clip that holds the master cylinder rod connected to the clutch pedal
3) loosen 6 bolts holding the support bracket (tedious... cumbersome access)
4) take off the plastic shield above the front left wheel to get under the hood (from the underside) to get at the clutch master cylinder
5) gently twist and pull the cylinder out just enough so that it released the support bracket
6) take out the old bracket, put the new one in, and repeat these steps in reverse.

The part numbers I got from Eaglefixer fit with no problem.

I was working on a 1996 B2300 Mazda pickup (Ford Ranger equivalent) - manual transmission, 2WD

Will post pics

 

well i glad it fixed your problem. It fixed mine too but my slave cylinder has gone out for the 3rd time and its at the shop awaiting time to pull the transmission again.

 

I'm driving the same truck. I don't have these problems, but would like to have a look and see if mine is wearing the same. Please do post the pics sometime, if you can. Thanks.

 

Do you think your problem of the difficulty to get the tranny into 1st or 2nd at stop lights was resolved by all the things you did? or by the pedal bracket alone?

It sounded like you did several things and the problem was still there until you changed the pedal pivot bracket.

I just bought a 95 4 cyl, 5 spd manual yesterday and it was easy to shift when stopped when I brought it home. The more I drove it (hotter it got) the harder it was to put into first gear.

Also my son tried taking off at intersection and killed it (he is learning to drive a clutch) and it didn't start, he had to play with the clutch pedal to get it to start.

I am most concerned about the difficulty shifting into 1st at stoplights....that's a show-stopper for a teen....not being cool when you can't get the car in gear at school...

Thanks