Well, I've been fighting a clutch problem for several months. I've changed my Clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder and throw out bearing. I've also changed out my Clutch Master cylinder twice and have taken it out 5 times to bleed the system because its been so hard to change gears. Well i think i found my problem. see pic's
Well just got done changing the pedal support assy and it feels like i got alot more clutch pedal travel. It started raining so i couldn't finish the job but i hope this will fix my problem. wish me luck. I got the pedal support bracket assy from the dealer for $98.96 which included the bracket and both brake and clutch pedals. Part number was 6L5Z2455BB. Also bought the special plastic clutch rod retainer that holds the rod to the pedal for $10.81 part number 6C3Z7A581A
well i'm hear to tell ya that my truck is fixed!!!!!!!! Shifts like new. Hard to believe that it was the bracket but it was. Hope this will help others that have a hard to shift problem and have bled their Clutch system.
Wow - this is exactly what I was looking for - someone who has had this same problem. I have a Mazda 1996 B2300 pickup (Ford Ranger equivalent). The ware and tare on this part in my truck is actually worse than what you have posted, and its starting to affect proper clutch function.
I am wondering if I could replace this part myself...I'm not too good with cars.
Did you have to take out the clutch master cylinder to free this part loose? Or more generally, how much disassembly to the car did it require to replace it?
I'd really appreciate any comments - I'm worried that this part is at a point where the rod that holds the break and clutch pedals will fall out of place (it move up and is almost out of place now when the clutch is depressed).
you don't have to remove anything but a few bolts. The Master Cylinder I believe will be loose when you remove all the bolts but you will not have to remove it or any lines. The clutch rod will have to be disconnected from the pedal and mine had a plastic piece that broken that you can get at the dealer which is where you would have to buy the bracket. Its not that hard but it a little pain in the neck looking up to see where all the bolts are. I also think you have to disconnect the brake light switch. The brake and clutch pedal came with the new bracket and install as an assembly. good luck
Thank you for your quick reply. I am happy to hear this.
I have the part on order and will be getting it later this week. If my subscription to this forum allows it, I'll try to post some photos. My part seems to be in worse condition than what you have posted...surprised it has not yet fallen out.
The local dealer told me that that particular part has either gone through 4 versions since 1996, or the manufacture/supplier was changed at some point. Anyhow, the part number you supplied is a part that may have originated in 2006... perhaps it was upgraded.
Yes - the parts came in, and I managed to replace it successfully. The car runs incredibly smooth now.
I do have pics, but have yet to upload them.
I guess for anyone who might be running across a similar problem, here's a few notes on what I experienced:
Problems: these were gradually building up over about 3 years (without me knowing what was up). For the last 2 years I was unable to start the car by depressing the clutch. I had to reach under near the clutch, and manually move the interlock switch up to engage it, then turn the key in order for the car to start. I replaced this part once, but it turned out to be a waste of $45. More recently my brake lights would not go out after the car was turned off unless I moved the brake pedal back toward the steering wheel before getting out of the car. Not to mention the more recent problem with putting the car in first gear and in reverse... generally, over the last few months, the pedal were loose to the point where it was getting more difficult to switch gears smoothly.
After replacing this one part, all these issues went away, and I'd say the car drives nearly like new. I don't know much about auto mechanics and such, but I managed to replace this part in a total of about 7 hours. I had to:
1) disconnect the brake pedal from the wires and the rest of the brake system
2) disconnect the clutch by braking the little plastic clip that holds the master cylinder rod connected to the clutch pedal
3) loosen 6 bolts holding the support bracket (tedious... cumbersome access)
4) take off the plastic shield above the front left wheel to get under the hood (from the underside) to get at the clutch master cylinder
5) gently twist and pull the cylinder out just enough so that it released the support bracket
6) take out the old bracket, put the new one in, and repeat these steps in reverse.
The part numbers I got from Eaglefixer fit with no problem.
I was working on a 1996 B2300 Mazda pickup (Ford Ranger equivalent) - manual transmission, 2WD
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