1st thing i would check is the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder, 2nd need to check the clutch pedal with your hand and see how much play you have at the top before you feel it engaging and while your checking that you need to look at the pivot point on the bracket that your clutch and brake pedals rotate on. need to look close on the clutch side of the bracket and report back with finding please

 

I added brake fluid to the smaller reservoir next to the master cylinder. It said something like "add fluid to the step". It was empty or close to it. I put about 1 inch worth in it.

I looked at the pedal pivot bracket and mine doesn't look worn. I saw the photos you posted.

There is some play in the pedal. The pedal doesn't come all the way back like you think it would, When the pedal is pushed to the floor there is 3 inches of play before I hit the friction zone (clutch grabs) when releasing it.

I will add that I have a brake line leak back next to the pumpkin, where the hard line that runs in the frame meets up with the rubber line that goes to the splitter on top of the pumpkin.

I just put all new brakes and parking brake cables on the rear today, still have the line to repair. I hate brake lines!!! Would the lack of pressure in the brake system cause problems with the clutch slave cylinder?

I don't understand this, I test drove it yesterday and it ran fine. I get home and drive another 30 miles and I can't get it into gear. If I turn the truck off I can put it into any gear easy as pie. Start it up and no go....

Thanks for your time.

 

Sounds like you have a leak either on the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder. how much play do you have in the clutch pedal at the top of travel?

 

Not much. maybe an inch.

There is about 2 inches of dead space on the end of the pedal and then I can feel it get harder to push and then I can go about 1 inch before it disengages.

 

How's the fluid level in the transmission?

 

That was going to be one of my next ventures. Drain it and put in new. I need a hose and the right funnel. Is there a secret to getting the fluid in there without spilling it all over?

What fluid goes in? I just bought the truck yesterday and don't have a manual yet.

Thanks

 

I didn't check the level in the tranny. didn't get a hose set up to put any in. I wasn't going to check it, I just was going to try adding mercon.



I did buy a manual today and I followed it to a T for bleeding the clutch master/slave cylinder. I opened the bleeder, (it was wobbly, like it is on an extension or something, is that normal?) Then I added fluid and let it run out the bleeder until no air came out. Then i shut it and had my son press the clutch in, hold it, I opened bleeder until it stopped flowing, then closed it up and pumped the clutch 5 times a few seconds apart.

Man, it went like the book said. We crossed our fingers and the truck started and NOTHING, it wouldn't go into any gear.

I shut it off, put truck in reverse, started it and it jerked and started cruising in reverse. I almost hit two of other cars in the driveway!!! Clutch would not release.

So after bleeding the master cylinder the clutch seems worse... Ideas?

Thanks for your help guys.

 

What manual did you buy?

 

Hard Shifting:
Inspect the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder resiervoir
Is the fluid with the MAX and MIN level marks
If no add the brake fluid and check for leaks

If yes: With the engine off
Depress the clutch pedal
Shift the transmission
Does the transmission shift smoothly?
If no Inspect the fluid level in the transmission
Is the fluid level at the specified level?
If no FILL the transmission to specified level

If yes Check the transmission top cover by:
Remove the transmission
Remove the top cover
Shift the transmission through all gears
Does the top cover shift smoothly?
If no REPAIR and REPLACE the top cover as necessary

If yes then check Transmission Internal Components by:
Visually inspect the internal transmission components for indications of excessive wear or damage, REPAIR and REPLACE as needed.

 

My 1999 Ranger Service Manual, indicates that the clutch should be bleed on a bench not in the vehicle.

Is that how you did it? No.

Remove Clutch and bleed correctly.

 

You will need to remove the Clutch Master Cylinder and line Assy and bleed on the bench and not in the truck

 

I bought a haynes manual. It said to bleed it while it is in the vehicle.

It said to open the bleeder and let gravity flow the fluid through the system, then depress pedal and bleed again...yada yada

Is that why they sell the new master and slave combo units "prefilled". Wonder why the manual and another website give instructions to do it on the vehicle. A friend said to use a small pump and pump the fluid through the system while on the vehicle.

The transmission shifts fine when the vehicle is turned off.

I have brake fluid everywhere now, there is no checking for leaks, I didn't get a tube on the bleeder so I just let it run out, all over!!

If I remove tranny to bleed system I am replacing everything in it, master/slave, clutch, plate and all... That's what I am trying to avoid right now.

Thanks, I'll try a few more times before I remove the tranny.

 

Remove clutch with removing transmission.

Bleed clutch properly on bench.

Reinstall clutch.

Bob's your uncle.

 

Shop manual:

1995 Aero/Rang/Expl Shop Manual - Helm Incorporated

 

You probably need a new slave cylinder anyway.

You have to remove the transmission to change that.