" Shorty headers " vs. regular manifolds?
#16
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Honestly shorties bolted to the stock Y pipe probably won't help you at all, a cam change to the '94 spec roller cam and longtubes would but that may be more work than you're willing to do. If you truck is one of those with 3.08 or 2.73 gears swapping in 3.55 to 3.73 gears would improve overall milage.
#17
Well heres a question that may help you... On our trucks the cat. is located on the I pipe where the Y pipe gos into the cat and back in a single I pipe so techanically you could keep the cat. in the same location as stock if you ran longtubes with a Y pipe... Here in tennessee if you have emissions all they care is if you pass the sniffer where you will with longtubes as long as you have a cat.
#18
or you can just find a loophole in emissions testing and get your truck exempt and run long tubes with no cat or smog pump. your local mechanic shop will probably be able to tell you what mileage you need to drive under per year to be emissions exempt (in pa it's 5000). then you just get a new gauge cluster and swap the new one in right after inspection and swap the original one in right before inspection.
#19
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5.8 Exhaust 105.jpg on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
New Exhaust 100.jpg on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
50Exhaust 006 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
#20
As was stated in the other thread, and according to two different shops here in Central VA (one an exhaust shop and one a 4x4 shop) the phrase "same position" means relative to the entire exhaust system ie: after the "Y" pipe, after the O2 sensor, but before the muffler, etc.
It does NOT refer to the position on the vehicle, or the number of inches of pipe, etc.
The visual inspection is to make sure all of the required emissions controls are in place. If the year/make/model/engine was required to have a converter there better be one on there when the inspector puts it up on the lift.
I had an 86 CJ-7 with a mostly stock rebuilt 258 that had to have a cat in order to pass. That was fine with me since it also passed NY's sniffer test with flying colors. So well that the inspector almost didn't believe it. Ironically the only mods I did when I rebuilt the motor was an HEI ignition setup, swap on a MC2100 carb and do away with all of the vacuum controlled crap they attached to the OE Carter BBD to make it pass emissions...
FWIW, I also had another 86 CJ-7 that had a mildly-built 83 SBC 350 in it that could never "legally" pass. Mostly because a Chebby 350 with an Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 4BBL carb, Mallory Unilite HEI ignition, Hooker LT fenderwell exit headers and RedHot glasspacks was never an available engine in a 1986 AMC Jeep...
Sometimes it's better to not know. Don't ask, don't tell and all that...
Some more food for thought...
Federal law technically states that only catalytic converters that have failed can be replaced but I don't know of any way they can prove otherwise if you do the repair yourself (as I have on SEVERAL vehicles). The parts stores/suppliers do not require a core for converter sales.
-cmc-
It does NOT refer to the position on the vehicle, or the number of inches of pipe, etc.
The visual inspection is to make sure all of the required emissions controls are in place. If the year/make/model/engine was required to have a converter there better be one on there when the inspector puts it up on the lift.
I had an 86 CJ-7 with a mostly stock rebuilt 258 that had to have a cat in order to pass. That was fine with me since it also passed NY's sniffer test with flying colors. So well that the inspector almost didn't believe it. Ironically the only mods I did when I rebuilt the motor was an HEI ignition setup, swap on a MC2100 carb and do away with all of the vacuum controlled crap they attached to the OE Carter BBD to make it pass emissions...
FWIW, I also had another 86 CJ-7 that had a mildly-built 83 SBC 350 in it that could never "legally" pass. Mostly because a Chebby 350 with an Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 4BBL carb, Mallory Unilite HEI ignition, Hooker LT fenderwell exit headers and RedHot glasspacks was never an available engine in a 1986 AMC Jeep...
Sometimes it's better to not know. Don't ask, don't tell and all that...
Some more food for thought...
Federal law technically states that only catalytic converters that have failed can be replaced but I don't know of any way they can prove otherwise if you do the repair yourself (as I have on SEVERAL vehicles). The parts stores/suppliers do not require a core for converter sales.
-cmc-
FYI... Mustang exhaust parts do not fit these trucks at all.. not even close, you need truck specific headers to fit the factory Y pipe or an aftermarket truck Y pipe like the Bassini piece. And the factory Y-pipe/cats are a big cork so shorties bolted to it will produce zero gains.. nada, plan on at least gutting this piece if you want to keep it. Mustang style H or X pipes don't fit either because of the midship tank and transfercase on 4x4 models so duals are also a waste of effort unless you just gotta have that sound, but both pipes still have to run down the passenger side so there's no power advantage to duals.
What gearing does the truck have? The E4OD seems to be the worst for fuel milage must be something to do with how it's programmed, but what milage are you getting now?
Honestly shorties bolted to the stock Y pipe probably won't help you at all, a cam change to the '94 spec roller cam and longtubes would but that may be more work than you're willing to do. If you truck is one of those with 3.08 or 2.73 gears swapping in 3.55 to 3.73 gears would improve overall milage.
Honestly shorties bolted to the stock Y pipe probably won't help you at all, a cam change to the '94 spec roller cam and longtubes would but that may be more work than you're willing to do. If you truck is one of those with 3.08 or 2.73 gears swapping in 3.55 to 3.73 gears would improve overall milage.
1st up is C M Colfax. I read the part about they could only be replaced if they failed. Seem to remember something about the shop had to fill out a certificate on that. What if you replace it yourself? I don't know. If as you say, the stores don't require an old one exchanged, who knows. You make sense there. Have never actually shopped for one. Also, if anybody can answer a related question, there was something in there that dual ( I have 2 in line ) could be replaced with a single IF it did the job of both. That also sounds interesting & would give me some room. How would I know if it did? Do they say " replaces both " or something?
Next is Conanski ( twice ), 1st reply, don't know the gearing, haven't checked it yet. Need to get the numbers off the door tag & list them here on for deciphering. Don't know the milage yet. Haven't been driving it much yet. Just filled both tanks ( almost $80.00 ) tonight & wrote down mileage. Don't think I have any tank to tank leakage ( cross flow or whatever I should call it ), but I have read about it happening to enough other people here that I want to re-fill both tanks again & write the milage down then in order to get an accurate reading.
2nd Don't want to get into internals on the engine till I have to. Was planning on replacing the entire system IF I do this. What's on there now is on it's last legs. Most of my driving will be local, not much highway. Wouldn't going to a lower gear hurt the milage? Always thought that higher RPMs meant more fuel used = less mileage? Am by no means an expert, this is just what I always thought. That's why they started putting overdrive trannys in I thought was to lower the RPMs so you would use less fuel? I'm not trying to say anybody's wrong, I'm a & don't know Jack. I'm just going from what I always thought. Again, thanks everybody.
#22
1st up is C M Colfax. I read the part about they could only be replaced if they failed. Seem to remember something about the shop had to fill out a certificate on that. What if you replace it yourself? I don't know. If as you say, the stores don't require an old one exchanged, who knows. You make sense there. Have never actually shopped for one. Also, if anybody can answer a related question, there was something in there that dual ( I have 2 in line ) could be replaced with a single IF it did the job of both. That also sounds interesting & would give me some room. How would I know if it did? Do they say " replaces both " or something?
I have bought universal fit replacement cats from parts stores and not had to provide a core, clamped them in place and drove on...
As for one cat replacing multiple, from what I have read in parts catalogs, most of the new ones state that they can replace multiples in engines up to 5.9L and GVW's of up to 5500lbs.
(Or something like that.... check Summit or Jeg's or JCWhitney...)
Another good source of info is here:
Bear River Converters - Wholesale distributors of catalytic converters
I am pretty sure he is a FTE member too.
I am following this closely 'cause it is on the list of projects for my truck. There are a couple more little things I NEED to do so it can take over DD duties while I catch up on some much needed PM/upgrades on my Grand.
Then I'll get in to the WANTS for the truck...
-cmc-
#23
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Wouldn't going to a lower gear hurt the milage? Always thought that higher RPMs meant more fuel used = less mileage? Am by no means an expert, this is just what I always thought. That's why they started putting overdrive trannys in I thought was to lower the RPMs so you would use less fuel?
#24
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Yes, the O2 wiring harness is wrapped with some other things and there is quite a bit of extra wire in it that can be freed up by removing the tape and wire loom around it and seperating it from the other wires. It connects to the main engine bay harness up behind the battery.. on my truck at least, and the portion between that point and the end that connects to the sensor is about 5 feet long.
#25
#26
Hope some of the stuff I write is helpful...
I have bought universal fit replacement cats from parts stores and not had to provide a core, clamped them in place and drove on...
As for one cat replacing multiple, from what I have read in parts catalogs, most of the new ones state that they can replace multiples in engines up to 5.9L and GVW's of up to 5500lbs.
(Or something like that.... check Summit or Jeg's or JCWhitney...)
Another good source of info is here:
Bear River Converters - Wholesale distributors of catalytic converters
I am pretty sure he is a FTE member too.
I am following this closely 'cause it is on the list of projects for my truck. There are a couple more little things I NEED to do so it can take over DD duties while I catch up on some much needed PM/upgrades on my Grand.
Then I'll get in to the WANTS for the truck...
-cmc-
I have bought universal fit replacement cats from parts stores and not had to provide a core, clamped them in place and drove on...
As for one cat replacing multiple, from what I have read in parts catalogs, most of the new ones state that they can replace multiples in engines up to 5.9L and GVW's of up to 5500lbs.
(Or something like that.... check Summit or Jeg's or JCWhitney...)
Another good source of info is here:
Bear River Converters - Wholesale distributors of catalytic converters
I am pretty sure he is a FTE member too.
I am following this closely 'cause it is on the list of projects for my truck. There are a couple more little things I NEED to do so it can take over DD duties while I catch up on some much needed PM/upgrades on my Grand.
Then I'll get in to the WANTS for the truck...
-cmc-
Total fuel consumption depends upon a lot of fators, vehicle weight and aerodynamics, overall gearing, engine size, and driving style. So there is no one size fits all every vehicle will be different and best milage comes from a balance of factors. You are right that in general higher engine rpms increases fuel consumption but so does increased engine load and this is what happens with really high(numerically low) gearing. As a result changing to slightly lower gearing can totally offset the potential increase in fuel consumption resulting from slightly higher engine rpms. IMO Ford screwed up by putting these ultra high gear ratios in these trucks, 3.55 seems to be the happy medium for most of the chassis and engine combos and higher gears just hurts milage and the trucks ability to do work efficiently in the real world.
No, and the EGR tube pictured is actually a 5.0 tube but it's on a 5.8 motor and it's not attached to the header in the stock location, that's just where it reached comfortably.
Yes, the O2 wiring harness is wrapped with some other things and there is quite a bit of extra wire in it that can be freed up by removing the tape and wire loom around it and seperating it from the other wires. It connects to the main engine bay harness up behind the battery.. on my truck at least, and the portion between that point and the end that connects to the sensor is about 5 feet long.
Yes, the O2 wiring harness is wrapped with some other things and there is quite a bit of extra wire in it that can be freed up by removing the tape and wire loom around it and seperating it from the other wires. It connects to the main engine bay harness up behind the battery.. on my truck at least, and the portion between that point and the end that connects to the sensor is about 5 feet long.
1) C.M. Colfax, again thanks for the added info. Was curious about the 1 for 2 deal. Thanks for explaining that.
2) Conanski, same to you. Thanks for the additional info., didn't even consider weight / strain on engine in regards to fuel milage. You say you suggest 3.55 for gears, will remember that. If I ever remember to get the numbers off the door, I'll find out what gears I have now. I would suppose that since I have a 302m ( 5.0 ) that my tube should reach about the same place & if the O2 sensor wires can be separated to plug in there, I should be good. Will find out what mileage I'm getting this time & compare after ( IF ) I do headers. The whole system is about shot, just passed inspection. The guy at the shop even said, no way it'll pass next time. Would like to do headers at the same time as I'm going to have everything else off. Just curious, what brand does everybody recommend. Have always heard Hooker was good ( looked at them on the computer, see they're part of Holley. Never knew that. Holley, I think carb., not headers. ).
#27
Jason, thanks for the info. Have pretty much decided after all I've read here, that IF I do this, I'll go with long tubes. Especially since seeing Conanski's pictures & what I've read about " stock location " meaning after the Y pipe & in front of the muffler.
#28
Are these the long tube header you guys mean, at the top of the list?
http://www.hedman.com/products/?id=3538&iset=9187&rsku=
http://www.hedman.com/products/?id=3538&iset=9187&rsku=
#29
Are these the long tube header you guys mean, at the top of the list?
http://www.hedman.com/products/?id=3538&iset=9187&rsku=
http://www.hedman.com/products/?id=3538&iset=9187&rsku=
http://www.holley.com/data/products/...rge6128HKR.jpg