So I've been doing some research and I'm trying to figure out a couple things.
1) Is it cheaper to build my own wiring harness or buy a premade one?
2) How hard is it to either install a premade harness or how hard is it to build a new one from scratch?

Im pretty electrical savy and I have already found a complete wiring diagram for my truck. And by the way I have a 1976 F150 w/ a 390. Any help would be greatly appricated.

 

Do you have a complete electrical strip (no wires, no plugs), or are you just trying to hook up what's already there? (Like original steering column and dashboard and firewall plugs)

If a complete virgin wiring job, then it's really up to you (how much effort you want to put in). Make your own wiring diagram (Microsoft Visio is a good option) so you can figure out what you did later. The premade ones will pretty much take care of that for you.

Good luck..

 

Only problem I've ran into is nobody makes the old Ford connectors anymore. You can find a few, but most of the kits you buy have a lot of GM style connectors so you need to adapt. I'm on my second early Bronco rewire with a Centech harness and while it is pretty good, there are a few things that could have been done better. Small things like the wires are loomed with tape where I would have gone braided. And their terminations do not allow for adjusting placement of switches for difference's in years. I too am capable of making one from scratch myself, but it is time consuming. McMasters Carr sells braided loom which I do use for things not in the kits like Duraspark/gauge wiring. Cost factor? Centech for mine are $450. Painless will run $700-$1000. Just a little info for you to consider.

 

If memory serves me, which for this ole timer is highly suspect, seem to recall member mentioning in the '61-66 forum the Mustang harness is a reasonable substitute. Purchased set of reproduction wire harnesses for 65 F100 from Mr. Mustang Inc., who reproduce F100 truck harnesses 64-67, same wire color codes and connectors, matter of unplugging the old and plug in the new. These particular harnesses are not loom braided, nor have I found anyone who reproduces the dash harness. Posting pic of the 'alt harness', very pleased with quality. They don't list the truck harnesses in their website, may want to contact them and see if they would know: (order line: 1-800-543-9195) or info line: (937-275-7439). Anyhow, just suggestion. If decide on 'do it yourselfer' there's a how to article on installing after market wire harness in Classic Truck mag online tech section.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ireharness.jpg

 

Thanks everyone for the help. I believe i've made my descion, and I'm just going to buy a new harness.

I was wondering what where some of the better harness where and where to get them the cheapest. I've been looking at painless wiring and their model 10118 seems to be nice but its about $600. Anybody elso know of some good brands they used and like??

 

also an add-on for the one above, would upgrading my altenator to a higher amperage be truely benifical to my truck (1976 F150). Im not running anything inside, heck the radio doesnt even work right now, but will soon. But as far as for the long run should i go ahead and upgrade it. Im not to sure of what the main advantage of upgrading it is really.

Thanks

 

If you plan on a winch, off-road lights, thumping stereo, then yes, upgrade. I did upgrade to a 95 amp internal reg alternator to do away with the seperate voltage reg just for simplicity. A problem you run into with stock harness is the ammeter, the wire running thru it is not sufficent for higher output alternators and best thing to do is replace with a voltmeter. I'm not familiar with your truck, but imagine it's about the same as the same year Bronco's I work on.

 

This is correct, but just to clarify it a little bit;

The factory ammeter is really a very sensitive voltmeter. The current going to and from the battery doesn't run through the ammeter itself, but runs through a calibrated resistance out in the harness called a shunt. Two small wires are spliced in on either side of this shunt, and the ammeter reads the voltage across this shunt through these two small wires.

If you upgrade the alternator, you should beef up the output wire of the alternator to the battery, and when you do this, you will naturally be bypassing the original wire with the shunt, so yes the factory ammeter will not work anymore, if yours even did in the first place. Most factory ammeters don't give any useful info.

 

i used the ezee wire kit for my truck and had no complaints. nice wire, labeled just like painful. came with good instructions, and tech support. did the 69 in about 2 days, would have been one bud budwiser helped me along.lol