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  #1  
Old 12-01-2009, 05:31 AM
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December B/S Thread

Hello!!!!

It's my turn....
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:40 AM
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Good job Jim.
Good morning.
I think we all just don't believe it is Dec. already.
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:48 AM
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Can't say that I'm complaining about the weather....
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:51 AM
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good morning CT! holy cow its December!!
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:54 AM
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Good morning Brian!

You're posting early today.
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
Good morning Brian!

You're posting early today.
mornin Jim, Im off to work, thats why.
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:16 AM
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Is it December all ready? Good thing the plow is all ready to go.
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Nice Work Truck View Post
Good job Jim.
Good morning.
I think we all just don't believe it is Dec. already.

X2, December already.
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:56 AM
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Good Morning CT.....Happy December
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:34 AM
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Morning everyone
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Old 12-01-2009, 10:50 AM
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Good Morning everyone..

Looks like a nice day to start December..
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Old 12-01-2009, 01:47 PM
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Happy December CT!!!
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:07 PM
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Good evening everyone.
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk View Post
Dave, Answers in order..
Yes you can get one for a regular strike, either single or with a second mortise for a deadbolt.

There is no rating for a jamb only. The jamb and door assembly may come with a UL tag affixed but you cannot modify it or it loses it's rating.

You will need to tell me what jamb depth (wall thickness) you want it for.

Do you want a flat slab, or an embossed door. If flat what gauge steel?
Aluminum threshold? Low profile (ADA)? Mill finish or anodized? Gold, bronze, etc....

Hinge size? Three 4" is basic, 4 1/2 or 5" for commercial and institutional doors.
I don't know if it will mate up to your existing door but I can get the hinge gain layout and you can measure what you have.
Hope this helps.
Jim:

Regular Strike plus deadbolt.

Hmm, I guess you are thinking of full thickness steel casing, but I'm not necessarily thinking similarly.
My vision is a narrow depth metal masonry frame to set in between the block walls.
I would set the door frame flush to the inside the basement face of the block and add trim to face off the exposed block between the storm door and this door.
The cinder block is about 7-3/4" thick but the studs above are only 2x4, so I guess I should fir out the studs so that the wall is a uniform thickness, which includes foam board over the blocks plus gypsum board over all that.
The gap between the blocks is a tad over 40-1/2."
Using the Therma-Tru rough masonry casing @39-25/32 that leaves just under 3/8" along either side, so I can form the gap & grout it in at the bottom and there is plenty of room to frame it back in at the top.

Embossed door, foam insulated.
Hmmm, I take it that the embossed door comes in one gauge only, by chance is the gauge 'commercial' i.e. heavier than Home Depot stuff.

Threshold ADA in mill finish, so I can roll stuff in & out.

Three four inch hinges.
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  #15  
Old 12-01-2009, 06:20 PM
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Evening, all. Got my windows tinted this afternoon. Used Tint Masters on the Berlin Tpke.

I've yet to see it in the light and I can't roll down my windows for 2 days or clean them for 4 days. And they're all streaky from their squeegees. It's driving me nuts but I'm hoping it will be worth it.

I did legal tints on the sides (40%) and one shade darker (35%) on my rear window. I'm hoping it's dark enough for me but I didn't want to chance darker tints in Wallingford. Cops here got no real crime to stop so they just harass people about dumb crap.
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