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Glow plugs, 87 thru 94, new style system

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  #61  
Old 01-09-2010, 06:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Alwaysfishn' View Post
Good Evening folks, Beings that this is the sticky for the Glow Plugs I'm looking for the Bullet insulated connectors can you point me in the direction for new ones? Mine are gone they just fell apart. I've called Napa and a couple other auto part places in my neck of the woods but they have came back in saying no can do, now I called Oregon Fuel Injectors out of Eugene,Or. They said they have what is called wiring harness for my 1994 IDI 7.3 F250 for $170 does that sound right or can I buy just the insulators?
i used the bullet crimp connectors from napa. .173 diameter, and use a bit of heat shrink tuning to seal them. they work perfect, and only cost around $2 for a pack of 10
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Old 01-09-2010, 08:04 AM
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Awesome a DIY way I like it thank you
  #63  
Old 01-09-2010, 09:07 AM
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tjc did you crimp them on or solder the connections?
I used a bullet crimp connector on my broken one the other day but the inside diameter was a bit small so I had to drill it out... real pain in the ***! I will hit up Napa today and pick up some of the ones you mention.
  #64  
Old 01-09-2010, 09:16 AM
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i soldered them on. the .173 are a tad small, but will push on. the other size is .194, and that is way to big. if you use the big ones, you will have to crimp them closed a bit. i think tighter and spread to fit is better though.
  #65  
Old 01-09-2010, 09:41 AM
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A tad tight is what I need, I got 2 miles of bumpy gravel and dirt road to drive just to get to the highway from my house, things tend to rattle loose on me often.

I was thinking a good insulator on a soldered crimp connector like that might be a short piece of rubber hose... it would be thicker then just heat shrink tubing and might act like a spark plug boot in keeping the connection sealed to keep moisture out.

I am going to try soldering on the connector, putting a piece of hose over it like a boot then heat shrink the hose to the wire... will let you guys know how it turns out.
  #66  
Old 01-18-2010, 02:54 PM
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replace old glow plug system?

Hello all: I am brand new here and I have a 1989 F-Series Super Duty flatbed that has the 7.3 IDI. From what I see, the previous owner/operator put in a push-button switch in the dash to fire the glow plugs!! The key on the column is also missing, so he just jump started from under the hood! There were also Autolite 1107 B5 glow plugs installed. Totally jury-rigged!!

I read on intellidog.com that there is a newer "integrated" controller system that is better. I want to get the ignition back to stock and be able to use the key and WTS like it should be.

Should I use this new glow-plug system. Ford parts quote over $500.

Thanks, Michael
  #67  
Old 01-18-2010, 03:05 PM
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Welcome Steekers,

These guys got a good price for the controller. Haven't done any business with them.

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  #68  
Old 01-18-2010, 03:11 PM
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Welcome to the forums steeker. I picked up a BWD controller at Schucks for $144 and Motorcraft ZD-9 glow plugs for $11.49. Don't pay Ford prices, call around to your local stores or buy online and save some cash. Just make sure not to buy any brand but Motorcraft glow plugs!
  #69  
Old 01-18-2010, 03:14 PM
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your 89 already has the "new and improved" glow plug controller.
ford switched to it in midyear 87
  #70  
Old 01-25-2010, 06:32 PM
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New problem....

Alright, I've been all over this forum and the rest of the inter-web and can't find anything about my current situation...

First off, I am working on a 1994 F250 7.3L DI w/ turbo. It is my brother's truck, but he is currently out of the country so I am looking after it for him.

About 4 months ago I replaced all 8 of the glow plugs with brand new Autolites (yeah, I know). The truck started up with no issue and ran great, until now. The other night I went out to the truck and waited for the WTS light to go out and then fired it up. No issues, started right up despite not have the block heater plugged in. I was in a bit of a hurry, so I didn't let it run very long to warm up. I took off down the road and made it maybe 1/4 mile from the house when the truck died and would not restart no matter what, couldn't even get the WTS light to come back on.

Towed the truck back to the house and found two of the 30A maxi-fuses in the power distribution box blown. (As a side note, if anybody has a fuse diagram for the power dist. box that you would be willing to share, that would be great. All of my slots are numbered, rather than lettered). Anyhow, I replaced the fuses, checked all the voltages at the GPR and everything was as it should be.

I had the block heater plugged in while I ran to town to get fuses, so I jumped back in turned the key. WTS light came on, GPR clicked, WTS light went out about 8 seconds later and the truck started right up. It MAYBE ran for 2 minutes until it died again. Sure enough, one of those fuses had blown again, but just the one this time. As a point of reference, I am talking about the Maxi-fuse closest to the engine block. I tried it one more time in the off chance I had gotten a bad fuse, but got the exact same result.

Any ideas as to what could be shorting out about 2 minutes after the engine starts and blows that fuse?

Last edited by BandAid; 01-26-2010 at 11:21 AM. Reason: Turns out this is actually a direct inject engine, not IDI as previously stated. My bad
  #71  
Old 01-25-2010, 07:07 PM
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welcome to FTE.
it almost sounds like the fuel heater in the filter housing may be shorted out and popping the fused.
unfortunately, i don't know very much about the 92 and newer trucks.
  #72  
Old 01-26-2010, 06:35 PM
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You nailed it tjc....
I pulled the filter out and sure enough, the heater was all chewed up and burnt as if it had been arcing to itself for a while. I REALLY appreciate your help on this, I never would have figured on looking in there for an electrical component. Truck is running like a champ again.

By the way, anybody else looking for these heaters: none of my local parts stores even knew what I was talking about. I ended up at the dealership paying about $80 for this thing, so it would be worth your time to call around and do some research on the net first.
  #73  
Old 01-26-2010, 06:59 PM
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never replaced mine when it burned out 10 years ago, and never had any problems yet.
  #74  
Old 01-26-2010, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BandAid View Post
. I ended up at the dealership paying about $80 for this thing, so it would be worth your time to call around and do some research on the net first.


no need, that is why I am here.


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  #75  
Old 02-02-2010, 10:25 AM
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Broken Glow Plug connector

I have been chasing my starting problems since I changed out my injection pump, injectors, glow plugs and even my glowplug controller about a year ago. No change, usually glow for only about 4 seconds and get a bit of white smoke after she fires up.

Gone as far as checking each glow plug wire from the controller to the plug with an ohm meter, everything was good.

Well I finally was ready to throw in the towel and buy myself a new set of Beru plugs again as I had pretty much changed everything else. I tested all the plugs with my test light and they were all fine but something had to be wrong. So I pull all the plugs and lay them side by side and low behold the one from under the turbo looked un-used, i.e. it did not have the same rust scale than the rest of them after they have gone thru a bunch of glow cycles.

I had checked the wires between the controller and the plugs previously but thought I go back and check the wire again with an Ohm meter, wires fine... wait a minute... as I pull on the connector .... no resistance.... let go... zero resistance...

Well to make a long story short the glow plug spade had broken internally in the connector and was making intermittent contact. .

I cut the plastic sleeve of the spade with a utility knife and sure enough the circular clip that makes contact with the plug had broken off from where it attaches to the wire. Hard to believe given the entire assembly is molded in white plastic, but it was broken making intermittent contact.

The funny part was you could not tell from just looking at the spade. All my spades still look really good as I a always careful when I pull them and push them on.

So if you are chasing a unexplained problem with your glow plugs, check your wiring. Make sure you pull and twist your spades if you are using a Ohm meter to check your wires.

Seb.
 
 
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