O-rings are designed to move (expand and contract). Using the RTV or equivalent will only lock the o-ring in place and limit its movement. O-rings need only some proper lubricant when installed and they should be fine. Also, this might encourage some pieces of the RTV to flow through the radiator or even the oil cooler tubes and possibly cause some restrictions.

 

I had none of that, just an external leak I wanted to fix. If you haven't done it since you've owned your truck, I would just do it for good measure. Parts are cheap enough and it's simple to do. The piece of mind is worth it to me.

 

Thanks for bringing this up guys. my oil cooler will puke about 1/2 a cup of oil out when it's colder than 10 degrees.. time to fix her up.. guess I need to finish painting my cummins frame and pull it outta the shop to make room

 

Ok, stupid question:

I don't have "trans-gel" or vasoline on hand.

Can I use regular grease or di-electric grease?

(Or just go to the flippin store to buy vasoline.)

 

Clean motor oil will work.

 

Even better! Thanks!

 

The moly lube for ARP bolts works wonders on o-rings!

I've had to replace oil coolers because of rust. Twice on our 94.5 idi so far!

 

Did this repair sat10-15-2011
Have about $135. that includes everything, even the gal of val 15-40
Got a good cooler tube from Shorts towing & salvage, got O-rings and Gaskets from Guzzle on this site. Taped off oil ports with duct tape, cleaned the thing with fast purple, then wire brushed it. Had some high temp off white BBQ grill paint, so I shot a few coats on the tube.
Cleaned all the water passages with a piece of fence wire.
Put on the new O-rings
Lubed the ends with Vasoline, put the filter end on 1st because it had the tabs.
Put it open end on rag on floor and just centered myself and let the weight my on it. went on with a positive feel. (There are no locator tabs on the front so I needed it on to line up) then with a block of wood and shop rag to level out the surface, did same on other end.
Did a few contortions and a little cussing.
But got the old one out and the new one in without even jacking up the truck.
EXTRA SUPER THANKS TO WHOEVER LISTED THAT YOU CAN DO IT WITHOUT UNBOLTING THE ENGINE."
I laid there shifted it, twisted it, pulling it back each time I had clearance. Twist some more, work it back bingo out she came"
Took me more time to get the front gasket and 2 bolts in then it did to get the part out then back in past the obstructions. (I put the fresh part in before I even scraped the old gaskets off, while it was fresh in my head)
Put everything back together started up let it run, then road test.
1 thing about the off white grill paint, if there is even a hint of leak I'll see it, you can see my greasy finger prints on it
Rock

 

Good job.

To create more room to get to the 2 front bolts I loosen up the 5 mounting bolts for the power steering & alternator bracket. Don't remove them, just get them real loose and slide the whole bracket forward. You do have to remove the serpentine belt. You will be surprised at how much more access this will give you to get to the front 2 bolts and gasket.

Torque power steering bracket bolts to 35 lb/ft.

 

I actually did take it off, and just moved it back (without stressing the lines too much) out of the way for very easy access to the front flange. Made it real easy!

 

 

Im thinking you cant do that if you have the upper coolant hose installed for the dual alternaters without taking it off and loosing coolant can you?

 

I went in from underneath.
Did not jack up truck or pull any extra parts.
Used 2 @ 2gal buckets + 1" open end wrench took out block heater and drained coolant.
Put them out of the way put in oil drain pan, and pulled oil filter with strap wrench. Go have cup-a-joe while that drained.
Took circular saw cut top board off a pallet to correct size and cut a V into 1 end. Made a few of these and used them to hold up the plastic wheel well liner (V side up flat side on frame)
Took 3/8 drive set up with sockets, 1/2 doz assorted extensions, a swivel, a ratchet, a breaker bar and a cheater pipe.
Unbolted front @ 2, the rear @ 3, part took it out, put new part up then scraped gaskets, w/gasket knife. (If your laying on your back goin nuts cause the socket wont fit on this last bolt on the rear, there maybe a plugged port for a oil temp sensor, right beside the forward most bolt on the filter block. Since ya are doing it by feel and cant really see dont ask how I know this)
Got the rear bolts started loosely, moved to the front.
The hardest part of the job was gettin the front bolts started. This got easier when I unlocked the ignition and turned the wheels all the way right and locked them there. (Had I pulled the tire it would have been a snap, well maybe not a snap but much easier!)
Once all in torque to spec.
Now if someone could just give me a short cut on this (before I tear everything off the front)
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-a-guru.html

 

I have the around the belt upper rad hose and is why I just loosened the bolts and moved the bracket forward. I get to the bottom bolt from
underneath and the upper bolt from above.

 

Thats what I have also. Good to know that I can do this with out taking the upper rad hose off. Thanks